2013~2016: Knock noise from CX-5 front

[Cx5AustinTX]

I'm finally taking my car to Mazda dealership. I'm just tired of this sound.
I'm paying the "$209" before tax diagnostic fee. I'm having the Master tech look at it.
I'm also going to let him know about the "Mazda Bulletin 02-002/18"

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Well you can take off the tires or not while installing the sway bar bushings. But taking off the tires would be easier. Just jack it up high and put jack stand under the sub frame.
The bolts to the sway bar bushings are on top of the sub frame. 2 bolts. It's a tight area but doable.

Oh ok. That's what I did. Was just confused by the comment of making sure it had load on it.

 

[Cx5AustinTX]

Oh ok. That's what I did. Was just confused by the comment of making sure it had load on it.

Well I didn't have a load on it while I had it in the air. I had the jack stands in the sub frame.
Yesterday, I did put a load on it, by having the jack stands under the sub frame and used the actual jack under the lower control arm and you can hear the knocking noise coming from the strut. I had one hand feeling for the sound while jacking up the lower control arm. And it was coming from the strut. Like I mentioned, I have Monroe quick struts and they're brand new. I replaced the OEM struts because I thought the struts were bad, they were making the noise with the OEM. So I'm out of ideas. OEM or not they're still making the noise.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Well I didn't have a load on it while I had it in the air. I had the jack stands in the sub frame.
Yesterday, I did put a load on it, by having the jack stands under the sub frame and used the actual jack under the lower control arm and you can hear the knocking noise coming from the strut. I had one hand feeling for the sound while jacking up the lower control arm. And it was coming from the strut. Like I mentioned, I have Monroe quick struts and they're brand new. I replaced the OEM struts because I thought the struts were bad, they were making the noise with the OEM. So I'm out of ideas. OEM or not they're still making the noise.

Oh then maybe I didn't do that. I'll have to do that soon and recheck my torque.

Really sorry to hear still having that issue.

 

[CoxHazards]

Well I didn't have a load on it while I had it in the air. I had the jack stands in the sub frame.
Yesterday, I did put a load on it, by having the jack stands under the sub frame and used the actual jack under the lower control arm and you can hear the knocking noise coming from the strut. I had one hand feeling for the sound while jacking up the lower control arm. And it was coming from the strut. Like I mentioned, I have Monroe quick struts and they're brand new. I replaced the OEM struts because I thought the struts were bad, they were making the noise with the OEM. So I'm out of ideas. OEM or not they're still making the noise.

SAME exact situation.

I put the jack under the LCA and raised/lowered and strut makes sound going up and down, I'm browsing struts to replace but you've already tried that so sounds like I'm screwed.

Can you report back once the dealer diagnoses it?

 

[Cx5AustinTX]

SAME exact situation.

I put the jack under the LCA and raised/lowered and strut makes sound going up and down, I'm browsing struts to replace but you've already tried that so sounds like I'm screwed.

Can you report back once the dealer diagnoses it?

Well I haven't taken it to the dealership yet. I spoke to the service advisor about the problem and he said what he thought it could be and it's everything I already replaced, everything.
Struts, lower control arms, axles, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, inner and outer tie rods, rotors, pads, motor mounts.
So I just been reflecting on everything I've done, driving to work.

I just don't want to pay the $207 "diagnostic".

Since I thought it was the struts from rock auto and I have warranty on them, I sent them back (the new ones I just purchased because it was still making that sound, even after replacing them the 1st time) and received new ones. I asked my self, what are the chances, for the 3rd time, it's the struts?

The car sounds perfect 50/50 of the time, until I go over bumps.
I remember I bought all 3 motor mounts from rock auto as well. "Anchor" brand.
So I replaced the passenger side, with hydraulic fluid. Which hasn't given me problems but the OEM was leaking fluid.

Then I replaced the lower center. After install, I noticed it was s***, the car jerked so hard as if it didn't have a mount, but realized, that the OEM mount was still good and installed back, there was no visible sign of it being blown. I just decided to replace it and then put the OEM back on.

Then I replaced the transmission mount because it was blown and obvious.
But, now I'm thinking, the vibration I felt from jacking up the LCA and dropping it back down, the motor mounts it right there, next to it. And it being "anchor" brand, that it might be that crappy mount.
Thinking about buying the OEM transmission mount to make sure and eliminate that thought.

*Side note
I have P0421 code.
I just bought the Pre-cat OEM and Post-cat OEM from Mazda Parts Outlet.
I'm going to install that tomorrow.
So I'll do another look under the car.

 

[Jmaz]

Although the knocking seems to be coming from the strut, you have to consider that the stabilizer bar end links connect to the strut and may be transferring noise to the strut. I'd disconnect them first before condemning the strut. My ends links knocked at the slightest bump and when grabbing ahold (they are under tension hooked to the stabilizer bar) there was no vertical slop but there was slop when pushing the ball and socket in and out.

 

[CoxHazards]

Well I haven't taken it to the dealership yet. I spoke to the service advisor about the problem and he said what he thought it could be and it's everything I already replaced, everything.
Struts, lower control arms, axles, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, inner and outer tie rods, rotors, pads, motor mounts.
So I just been reflecting on everything I've done, driving to work.

I just don't want to pay the $207 "diagnostic".

Since I thought it was the struts from rock auto and I have warranty on them, I sent them back (the new ones I just purchased because it was still making that sound, even after replacing them the 1st time) and received new ones. I asked my self, what are the chances, for the 3rd time, it's the struts?

The car sounds perfect 50/50 of the time, until I go over bumps.
I remember I bought all 3 motor mounts from rock auto as well. "Anchor" brand.
So I replaced the passenger side, with hydraulic fluid. Which hasn't given me problems but the OEM was leaking fluid.

Then I replaced the lower center. After install, I noticed it was s***, the car jerked so hard as if it didn't have a mount, but realized, that the OEM mount was still good and installed back, there was no visible sign of it being blown. I just decided to replace it and then put the OEM back on.

Then I replaced the transmission mount because it was blown and obvious.
But, now I'm thinking, the vibration I felt from jacking up the LCA and dropping it back down, the motor mounts it right there, next to it. And it being "anchor" brand, that it might be that crappy mount.
Thinking about buying the OEM transmission mount to make sure and eliminate that thought.

*Side note
I have P0421 code.
I just bought the Pre-cat OEM and Post-cat OEM from Mazda Parts Outlet.
I'm going to install that tomorrow.
So I'll do another look under the car.

Keep us updated if you find anything...

Here's the sounds my front end makes, sounds pretty similar, a bit deeper outside the car but sounds similar to your video inside the car.

 

[Chandra82]

Does the sound appear to come from up near chest level or from down below?

Down below. You can feel it if feet are on passenger floor. Sometimes it sounds like it's on drivers side too.

 

[N7turbo]

Keep us updated if you find anything...

Here's the sounds my front end makes, sounds pretty similar, a bit deeper outside the car but sounds similar to your video inside the car.

That jack is crying for oil...

 

[CoxHazards]

UPDATE: MY KNOCKING/CLUNKING IS FIXED. IT WAS THE CROSSBAR UNDER THE WINDSHIELD/next to strut mount bolts.

Scroll up to my previous comments/video for the sound/issue, I was 2 seconds from ordering new struts thinking it was the struts. I tightened the crossbar bolts as some others have noted and the knocking has gone away, so anyone else with similar sound, please try this. I can’t believe the number of hours I spent trying to diagnose and fiddling around with my strut (threw bunch of lithium grease at it) only for it to be the crossbar.

BAD NEWS: I snapped off one of the bolt while tightening it and the one next to it seems to keep turning and I’m afraid to cross thread/snap it too, so I’ve got more work to do.

Anyone know the proper torque spec for these 4x12mm bolts for the crossbar?

 

[Cx5AustinTX]

UPDATE: MY KNOCKING/CLUNKING IS FIXED. IT WAS THE CROSSBAR UNDER THE WINDSHIELD/next to strut mount bolts.

Scroll up to my previous comments/video for the sound/issue, I was 2 seconds from ordering new struts thinking it was the struts. I tightened the crossbar bolts as some others have noted and the knocking has gone away, so anyone else with similar sound, please try this. I can’t believe the number of hours I spent trying to diagnose and fiddling around with my strut (threw bunch of lithium grease at it) only for it to be the crossbar.

BAD NEWS: I snapped off one of the bolt while tightening it and the one next to it seems to keep turning and I’m afraid to cross thread/snap it too, so I’ve got more work to do.

Anyone know the proper torque spec for these 4x12mm bolts for the crossbar

UPDATE: MY KNOCKING/CLUNKING IS FIXED. IT WAS THE CROSSBAR UNDER THE WINDSHIELD/next to strut mount bolts.

Scroll up to my previous comments/video for the sound/issue, I was 2 seconds from ordering new struts thinking it was the struts. I tightened the crossbar bolts as some others have noted and the knocking has gone away, so anyone else with similar sound, please try this. I can’t believe the number of hours I spent trying to diagnose and fiddling around with my strut (threw bunch of lithium grease at it) only for it to be the crossbar.

BAD NEWS: I snapped off one of the bolt while tightening it and the one next to it seems to keep turning and I’m afraid to cross thread/snap it too, so I’ve got more work to do.

Anyone know the proper torque spec for these 4x12mm bolts for the crossbar?

Sorry, I'm trying to understand your post.

Were you able to replaced the bolts, the snapped one and stripped one?

Just want to make sure I understand your post correctly.

 

[CoxHazards]

Before firing the "parts cannon" at the car and changing anything, check the tightness of the support
brace that is attached on the upper inside of the strut towers tight against the firewall. There should
be two bolts per side. I had a terrible knock coming from underfoot on the drivers side as well as a minor thump from the rear. I found these bolts loose on my 2018 CX 5 and secured them tight.
All noises disappeared. Unfortunately I did not have the factory torque spec so I tightened them to
50 ft-lb with red Loctite on the threads. It appears the strut towers can flex in and out slightly under
suspension load and cause body flex. The noise telescopes through the uni-body. If these bolts are really loose the car will require endless steering correction on the highway, bump steer, and make a loud snap or thump with the wheels slightly off-centre going over speedbumps, potholes and the apron from the road to the driveway. If this is not your issue let me know and I'll give you the complete "flowchart" procedure to find the noise. I never found any DIY'er on YouTube who knew there arse from a hole in the ground on proper diagnostics and ended spending a fortune on unneeded parts in shear desperation.

Thank you so much, crossbar/brace was the issue, can’t believe that being loose can make so much noise.

 

[CoxHazards]

The snapped one hasn’t been replace, I snapped it but the thread part is still in the groove, so technically it’s tight right now, but obviously I’m gonna have to devise a plan to take that out and put in a new bolt.

The stripped one is just my speculation, I hand tightened and am not tightening it more.

As of now all 4 bolts are tight and no knock/noise. I’m planning to fix the snapped one and then also unbolt the other 3 and add loctite and retighten to torque spec (if I can find it).

All I did was tighten the 4 bolts and it fixed it, do try it to see if those bolts are loose, it takes 30 seconds. 12mm socket.

 

[CoxHazards]

Sorry, I'm trying to understand your post.

Were you able to replaced the bolts, the snapped one and stripped one?

Just want to make sure I understand your post correctly.

See above.

 

[Cx5AustinTX]

The snapped one hasn’t been replace, I snapped it but the thread part is still in the groove, so technically it’s tight right now, but obviously I’m gonna have to devise a plan to take that out and put in a new bolt.

The stripped one is just my speculation, I hand tightened and am not tightening it more.

As of now all 4 bolts are tight and no knock/noise. I’m planning to fix the snapped one and then also unbolt the other 3 and add loctite and retighten to torque spec (if I can find it).

All I did was tighten the 4 bolts and it fixed it, do try it to see if those bolts are loose, it takes 30 seconds. 12mm socket.

I will check now. Thank you.


Side note* I replaced the exhaust manifold and down pipe, took 8hrs to do at home and alone.
I dropped the subframe and double and triple checked every single bolt while under there and didn't see anything wrong.

I will look into the 4 bolts up top.

 

[CoxHazards]

I will check now. Thank you.


Side note* I replaced the exhaust manifold and down pipe, took 8hrs to do at home and alone.
I dropped the subframe and double and triple checked every single bolt while under there and didn't see anything wrong.

I will look into the 4 bolts up top.

Hopefully that’s the issue for you too. And hopefully you don’t over tighten it like I did, someone else suggested 50 nm torque.

I should correct myself, 3 out of 4 bolts are tight/holding the brace in, the snapped one with the thread inside isn’t actually holding in the brace, but even with 3 bolts the noise has gone away.

 

[Chandra82]

I'm finally taking my car to Mazda dealership. I'm just tired of this sound.
I'm paying the "$209" before tax diagnostic fee. I'm having the Master tech look at it.
I'm also going to let him know about the "Mazda Bulletin 02-002/18"

Just to let you know I took my car to mazda dealership and they did a diagnostic with no mention of anything that could be causing the sound. They just gave me a list of other things that supposedly needed fixed. I asked about the sound and they said that would be extra to check for. I would be very specific about the sound from the get go so that they only check for that and don't charge you for both the diagnostic and that...it might need to be a recall since so many people are experiencing the same issue..

 

[Cx5AustinTX]

Well there you go.
So the driver side was tight but not tightened down it did like 3/4 maybe 1/2 a turn.
But the passenger side was loose. It took about 2-3 turns. I made sure not to over tighten it. But I got it tight.

I only have one bolt on each side.
I have a 2014 Cx-5 Grand Touring 2WD 190k.

Once I tightened them, I got in and took the route I normally take to work, but that route has fixed pot holes and dips small and big. I went over man holes. Basically the spots I know where the car did make that sound..

I did this twice. (I didn't go all the way to work, just out of the neighborhood).

It worked! I don't have the sound anymore.

200955 was correct. All the way.