I guess its better if i post this here: spark plug wires

Judge Mills

Member
:
2003 Mazda Protege 5
I've been reading different threads on here, and i'm still confused.

I guess that main thing that is irritating me is that it seems no one sells the direct fire wires from the coil packs along with the the other wires. You would think that if somone wanted to replace their wires, they would replace all 4 at the same time.

I had the boot problem that many of you had. that was on my far left (passenger) side. The two plugs that are directly under the coil pack are corroded.

I need all 4...

Most places online have real vague descriptions, but i assume most don't sell all four in a package. I wish these places had contact phone numbers!

If anyone has some real concise info on what i'm looking for, that'd be great.

EDIT: forgot to mention it is a 2003 Mazda Protege5
 
so basically i'm kinda screwed if i want to leave the coil packs on top of the valve cover?

i guess i should do a search for the 1.8 coil set up then, eh?

What prompted all of this is that i installed some NGK G power platinum's yesterday...
 
No, you're OK. Just order 4 plugs - bkr5e11's (oem) or long reach zfr5e11's (long reach) & the 2 wire set is the ZE76 part number I listed. Just go to ngk.com & use the vehicle selector with 03 P5. It will go to the plug page where they list reg, iridium, platinum, etc. Then use pulldown to get to wires page. You'd have to put in 2000 protege with 1.8l motor to get part numbers for 4 wire setup & long reach zfr plugs. Anything other than regular copper v-power plugs are basically a waste of money. Tried them. None work any better than straight up copper & none last much longer either.
 
You need 4 of these:

plug 6953 BKR5E-11 .044" (Original Equipment Manufacturer, and/or Original Equipment Service Part) $2.24 x 4

You need 1 of this set of 2 wires: NGK Premium wire set 5659 ZE76 $29.95

That's it.
 
Okay.. I guess I don't worry about the the corrosion on the direct fire wires then? just replace the coil packs and forget it?

i already changed the plugs yesterday...

sorry i'm frustrating ya dude, i'm just trying to understand why they do it this way...
 
No, you're OK. Just order 4 plugs - bkr5e11's (oem) or long reach zfr5e11's (long reach) & the 2 wire set is the ZE76 part number I listed. Just go to ngk.com & use the vehicle selector with 03 P5. It will go to the plug page where they list reg, iridium, platinum, etc. Then use pulldown to get to wires page. You'd have to put in 2000 protege with 1.8l motor to get part numbers for 4 wire setup & long reach zfr plugs. Anything other than regular copper v-power plugs are basically a waste of money. Tried them. None work any better than straight up copper & none last much longer either.

Good to know for next time. This is just what the local parts shop had at the time....
 
Hey I've got very rusty original '02 P5 coils - the laminations are bulging from the rust. What is the point of converting to a 1.8 coil setup, and how will costs compare with just replacing with OEM type? (My wires are new and I hate to pitch them if I convert).
 
go to autozone.com and buy the coil packs there like 17.99 a peice. very cheap and well worth it.

the 1.8 convert needs a lot of work like a gasket, valve cover, wires coil etc.....
 
Okay.. I guess I don't worry about the the corrosion on the direct fire wires then? just replace the coil packs and forget it?

What do you mean by "direct fire wires"? The coil pack has a plastic extension that goes down the corresponding cylinder and sits right on that plug. While there is certainly a wire in there, the more important point is that there is a substantial chunk of plastic around the wire, and that is itself protected by the tube leading down through the head. As far as I know coil packs fail at the coil, not due to problems with the "direct fire wire".
 
What do you mean by "direct fire wires"? The coil pack has a plastic extension that goes down the corresponding cylinder and sits right on that plug. While there is certainly a wire in there, the more important point is that there is a substantial chunk of plastic around the wire, and that is itself protected by the tube leading down through the head. As far as I know coil packs fail at the coil, not due to problems with the "direct fire wire".

"direct fire wire" is a term i pulled off a place that sells the coil packs..

anyway, i just figured you could buy those extensions seperate.. guess not, haha.

i'll just pop in a couple new packs then. those extension tubes are all corroded (humpleg)

EDIT: ordered up the coil packs from autozone. Thanks guys for the help :wave:
 
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Hey I've got very rusty original '02 P5 coils - the laminations are bulging from the rust. What is the point of converting to a 1.8 coil setup, and how will costs compare with just replacing with OEM type? (My wires are new and I hate to pitch them if I convert).
OK, there are differing schools of thought as to which coils are better & direct fire vs. wires & what position is better or worse for heat-on top of motor or mounted over the exhaust manifold or header. Opinions vary & that's about the only difference. I have 1.8's & the msp vc right now so I hide my wires under the engine cover, that were trimmed to clear the mounting points for coils that were removed. I also have the 626 vc with cam sensor that I am polishing to go with new set of wires that don't require trimming because it already had the 1.8 coils mounted up front of motor. The wiring loom has to be opened to get the coil leads to new position of coils. Also have the P5 vc. 1 of these is gettin cut to show off blue adj cam gears soon, not sure which. Anyway, the long reach zfr5 pulgs with the coils seemed to smooth out idle & did seem to make the motor happy. Did it relate to more pwr or mpg? Not really probably but if the motor is happy so am I & I was bored & got coils cheap before napa realized they were wrong price on web site sooooo I went with it. Here's a pic............... http://www.msprotege.com/members/i12drivemyMP5/RAD_CVR1.JPG
 
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sorry i'm frustrating ya dude, i'm just trying to understand why they do it this way...
No, not frustrated. Was at work so trying to type fast-multitasking. Sorry, I wasn't snapping about replacing the coils on the first read. Just thought you were doing plugs & wires. You should get the whole thing when your coils come. They will have the rubber boot that goes down on the plug. That, the plugs & wires will make your motor love you.
 
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Corroded how? Do you have a picture?

Plastic does not rust and we can safely assume your motor is not spitting acid into the spark plug holes. The little rubber boot at the bottom can fall apart, is that what you mean?

the metal contact inside the boot that rests on top of the spark plug.. the top of the plug was corroded too...
 
the metal contact inside the boot that rests on top of the spark plug.. the top of the plug was corroded too...

Since your sig says Aberdeen, WA, and that's apparently on the coast, perhaps there was some salty condensate dripping down onto that plug. Clean off the top of the engine really well when you replace the coil pack, and maybe cut a ring of thin squishable gasket material to put under it to seal the hole better?
 
I would recommend not doing the gasket thing. There is too much of a chance of it getting stuck or dropping in the motor. The best thing to do is get the dielectric grease they have for the spark plug boots. It keeps moisture out and helps it deliver the electric to the plug.

Here is what you need besides the wires and plugs:

Two of these @ ~$35 each
wa2247-1.jpg


You could just replace the boots @ ~$27 each, but why not get new coils for a few bucks more?
50016.jpg
 

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