2008 Mazda5 Head Unit Died --> Android?

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2008 Mazda5 GT
2008 Mazda 5 getting long in the tooth.. Lately it seems all of the car's material components are starting to failed in bunches as if it hit a some mythical expiration date at the same time. Roof rail cover developed a hold/crack for no reason and the corresponding rear cover popped out... The plastic trim around all 4 windows starting to rotted and crack. And now, the radio just died out of the blue... These are just a few of the recent events.

Still need a radio. This give me an excuse to play with an Android unit. Figure I post this here in case future owners are interested. I'm torn if I go ultra cheap (~$100), mid grade (~$200), or something on the higher end (+$300).


(WIP list)
BrandModelCostShippingTotal CostAndroid Ver.RAMROMCPURESRadio ICAmp ICBT360 cameraCarPlayDSP
WeisuveT4-1
203.61​
0​
203.61​
12​
4​
64​
2.2 -81280x720MT6625
5​
OptYesYes
WeisuveT3-4
112.7​
0​
112.7​
12​
2​
16​
1.5 -41024x600MT6625
4​
NoYesYes
ForefeelD2 4-32G CAM
120.86​
0​
120.86​
13​
4​
32​
1.5 -41280x720???YesYes
ForefeelD3 4-64G CAM
167.63​
0​
167.63​
13​
4​
64​
2.0 -81280x720??OptYesYes
ForefeelD5 QCM 6-128G DVR
292.27​
0​
292.27​
13​
6​
128​
2.6 -8 Qualcomm1280x720??OptYesYes
KJ-NAVIY 4G 32G
132.22​
0​
132.22​
13​
4​
32​
?1280x720?y??YesNo
KJ-NAVIF2 4G 64G
182.45​
0​
182.45​
13​
4​
64​
?1280x720?y??YesYes
KCBosionBX-F063-9 inch
196​
5.26​
201.26​
10​
4​
64​
1.8+1.5 PX6-RK33991024x600TDA7786TDA7851
5​
NoOptAKM7739
KCBosionBX-D040-9 inch
188​
5.26​
193.26​
10​
4​
64​
2.5 -8 AC82571024x600TDA7708TDA7851
5​
OpYesBU32107EFV
 
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Pay attention to the radio chip, if the radio is crucial for you. You might need an active antenna.
If I were you, I'd go for an IPS 9" screen with a frame attached.
 
DO NOT buy any of those "pure android" radios. Ever tried to use a $20 Wish dot com tablet? Because that's literally what they are. Garbage. Trash. Junk.

Do yourself a huge favor, get a nice name brand radio from Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer, JVC, or Sony. You won't be sorry.
 
Those Android HUs are total crap. Crutchfield sells some nice Android Auto HUs that come with all install gear, and warranty and support from the manufacturer.
Ex: Boss BE7ACP-SD
Edit: I understand you're doing a budget and your acceptance level of janky is really high. What about something like this or this
 
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Those Android HUs are total crap. Crutchfield sells some nice Android Auto HUs that come with all install gear, and warranty and support from the manufacturer.
Ex: Boss BE7ACP-SD
Edit: I understand you're doing a budget and your acceptance level of janky is really high. What about something like this or this
Janky - LOL, had to look it up and yes for me. Learned something new today! Never said I "was" doing budget, but I did considered it knowing the trader-off that it will run like a $20 tablet but get a modern 9" screen with full kit/wiring. Truthfully, I would not want or recommend anything with less than 4GB RAM and that's just one of many criteria.


I think I've narrowed it down to two (technically three) units that run in the $300 range. Stepping back and thinking logically about it, what does an extra ~$100-$200 matter when I see/feel/interact with it evetime I get in the car. It would pay for itself in my UX. I've been catching up on XDA and learned some new things. The most interesting and still trying to sort out is adding the ~$20 Mazda canbus to retains using the OEM dash panel where it would be blank with aftermarket head units. Also 9" (720P screen) vs 9.5" (2K screen), they fit the same frame. I'm also leaning towards the 360-camera setup (I better understand what this really means in terms of requirements) b/c I've been wanting to upgrade my backup camera. The add-on cameras set would be $50 vs buying one standalone fisheye lens for $30. This would be a fun toy on an old car.

Opt 1:
Forefeel - Their higher end units use Qualcomm Snapdragon 665 chips (Q2 '19 release). Snapdragon chips have a lower power consumption, which is REALLY enticing b/c heat kills. While its performance score is slightly lower than Unisoc, it is better overall due to lower power consumption.

Opt 2:
Mekede/FYT - Their higher end units use the Unisoc UIS7862(s) (Q4 '22 release chip and designed for tablets). It has DOUBLE the cache memory over snapdragon. LOL, this chip has a max memory rating of 6GB; there's debate on XDA why even offer it with 8GB RAM, other than marketing (what other memory intensive functions can you do on an Android radio..?). The MOST appealing thing is (drum roll), HDMI INPUT! I believe it is the first Android head unit with HDMI Input (not output, that's been around). I also love the fact that Mekede has FULL disclosure of their chips and specs, and show their PCB - LOVE it! Caps are an easy/universal upgrade, will need to check out digikey to see what other componetns has upgrade potential.
UIS7862S vs UIS7862.jpg



Qualcomm SM6125 Snapdragon 665 vs Unisoc UIS7862S


Extensive thread on mods to Unisoc chip units.


This review got my attention to the Mekede M6 Pro Plus (Pro Plus means 2K screen so 9.5" with HDMI and slightly different specs. I think FYT uses the same hardware).
 
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Do what you want but you've been warned already, and here's another: Don't go with crap no-brand Android head units. They are garbage and will drive you nuts. Stick with Alpine, Sony, JVC, Pioneer, Alpine.
 
Don't go with crap no-brand Android head units. They are garbage and will drive you nuts.
Sounds like this is from experience and not conjecture. Can you share the unit’s detailed specs, when you had it, etc., so we have empirical facts to compare/debate? I’ve never used an “In car” Android head unit.
What exactly about it makes it garbage
What happens that drive you nuts?

Stick with Alpine, Sony, JVC, Pioneer, Alpine.
My days of in car hi fidelity are long gone. As OEM integrate functions into the unit, it’s only a matter of time before these mainstays will be phased out. Nakimichi and Eclipse knew beforehand. Enjoy them while you can (Kenwood Excelon and JVC fan). Unless they make an open source full Android unit that can run ForScan, ODB2 software, emulators, etc, the mainstays do not serve my purpose at all.


This does make me second guess myself. I haven't really “needed” the radio this whole time and don’t really miss it. Maybe I should just grab a upull it/eBay or open up my unit to see if I can trace it/fix it. My simple backup cam works and really that is all I need… the case for a sub $100 Android units is also stronger (just to not have a brick or empty hole).

FWIW, my preferred home receiver is an old Phillips that still run vacuum tubes.
 
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Sounds like this is from experience and not conjecture. Can you share the unit’s detailed specs, when you had it, etc., so we have empirical facts to compare/debate? I’ve never used an “In car” Android head unit.
What exactly about it makes it garbage
What happens that drive you nuts?
I had two Eonons and and Erisin, and all three were horrific. I did manage to make it a full year with the last Eonon, but after that, I simply couldn't stand it anymore. The constant crashes. The buggy software, the utterly dreadful sound quality, and the tuners are utterly *worthless*. I could be driving directly next to the radio tower, and I'd get literally no signal. None. They are pathetic jokes.

Through my research, come to find out, the "brand name" on these things means absolutely nothing. No matter what "brand" is on the box, all of them are made by Shenzhen Klyde, in the same factory, on the same assembly line, using the same tooling and guts. And those guts are utter garbage, made without even a hint of QA/QC. QA/QC is a completely foreign concept to the monkeys that make this trash.
 
Unless they make an open source full Android unit that can run ForScan, ODB2 software, emulators, etc, the mainstays do not serve my purpose at all.
Literally none of that should you be messing with while rolling down the road. What you need is a good Autel, Genisys, or Snap-on scanner (I have an Autel) and a laptop to do those things effectively. My Autel MX808 gets me 99.99% of where I need to be with anything I've had to do to my cars since I've gotten it. And for that 0.01% of stuff left over (which honestly, I haven't even run across yet), my Thinkpad has ForSCAN and Tech2Win on it.
 
I had two Eonons and and Erisin, and all three were horrific. I did manage to make it a full year with the last Eonon, but after that, I simply couldn't stand it anymore. The constant crashes. The buggy software, the utterly dreadful sound quality, and the tuners are utterly *worthless*. I could be driving directly next to the radio tower, and I'd get literally no signal. None. They are pathetic jokes.
Sounds like you had a terrible experience and left disappointed b/c you were willing to go through 3 units. Can you provide some context.

-How long ago did you last use the unit?
-Andriod OS version?
-Firmware build/version? <-!
-RAM count (tech specs)? <-!
-CPU speed (tech specs)? <-!
-Radio chip model?
-Amp chip model?
-Did it have DSP?


crashes. buggy software,
I assume you are talking about the units firmware (UI) that crashed/buggy. It is likely the early Eonos/Erisin came with a crappy build. If you were an early adopter, then this is to be expected. I see a lot of people complaint it is laggy but not much about crashing. But you cannot expect, for example, a 1GB RAM + 1.2 GHZ 4 core chip unit to run smoothly. There’s no way a 8GBRAM +2.5GHz 8 core (+more efficient) chip unit will be as laggy.

sound quality
Do you know the internal amp model number it came with? Did you opt for a unit WITH or WITHOUT DSP? DSP is hardware that needs to be considered before purchase if you care about sound. It would be VERY helpful to know these sepcs to avoid. No matter what, Android units will not match the amplification ability as mainstay head units. There just isn’t enough space in those tiny/flat tablet housing to handle large capacitors or heatsinks needed -that is on top of the CPU’s heat- all stuffed inside of an oven (dashboard).

Tuner
Do you know the radio chip model number it came with? It would be VERY helpful to know this spec to avoid. I’ve come across in XDA where some antenna circuit was NOT properly grounded inside the board. This is a product issue and would not expect a user to open it up and resolder the ground. I’m not sure when was the last time I listen to AM/FM radio or use my 6 disc CD changer for this to really impact me either way. BTW, one thing Android radio will never have is HD Radio b/c this requires license fee. The better end units that come with the TDA7708 radio chip is fully capable of receiving HD radio and AFAIK, no complaints with reception.



For those who want to take it a step further, you can reflash the stock firmware with a more stable version built by developer from forum.xda-developers.com community but only if unit’s processor is supported. Generally, the current generation of Android seems to be pretty stable, but will absolutely run slow if you opt to buy a cheap unit. Also, some sellers fake the RAM count and Android OS version, you will need to do you own due diligence. My concern is still longevity b/c inside of the dashboard gets super HOT in the summer.
 
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Literally none of that should you be messing with while rolling down the road. What you need is a good Autel, Genisys, or Snap-on scanner (I have an Autel) and a laptop to do those things effectively. My Autel MX808 gets me 99.99% of where I need to be with anything I've had to do to my cars since I've gotten it. And for that 0.01% of stuff left over (which honestly, I haven't even run across yet), my Thinkpad has ForSCAN and Tech2Win on it.
You are imply I will be messing with this will rolling down the road. I haven't mentioned my use case/needs. Unless I'm making a living using it day in/out, a dedicated handheld ODB2 scanner is not necessary nor recommended. One of the appeals of Android is that it can unify/simplify all for these into one integrated solution (note, Android cannot replace a full OS).
 
I would like to share a few thoughts without any intent to participate in holy wars around head unit brands.

One important thing about retrofitting a screen in both generations of Mazda 5 is the screen location. It's located quite low and in my opinion, should not be used as a primary source of navigation information. Looking at the screen there takes too long, it is very hard to do this while keeping an eye on the road.

Having said that, I think the screen resolution and screen size are not important if you have to choose one. I would still recommend Teyes brand for the price and functionality. It even has a fan to cool down the head unit, which is activated with the software temperature sensor.
I would absolutely recommend investing extra money into a good wide-angle backup camera and a dash camera setup rather than a 2K screen resolution.

Attached is a picture of my setup. The primary source of navigation is Google Maps on the phone and Waze on the Android unit is used as a secondary option. It really helps with the road conditions updates and a way to look up an alternative route if you're stuck in traffic.
 

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You are imply I will be messing with this will rolling down the road. I haven't mentioned my use case/needs. Unless I'm making a living using it day in/out, a dedicated handheld ODB2 scanner is not necessary nor recommended. One of the appeals of Android is that it can unify/simplify all for these into one integrated solution (note, Android cannot replace a full OS).
By the way, an OBD2 scanner constantly plugged into the port can slowly drain the battery.

From my personal experience, the Android unit is a way to go, but it would not work for everyone. Just make sure you're familiar with Android software development, soldering, etc. I installed 5 already on 5 different cars, and only the first unit was kind of meh. Still better than nothing for the price.
 
@Silentnoise713
Sounds like you're bound and determined to go down this road, no matter how much people are warning you not to, and that's cool. As I said before, I loved the idea of them so much, I tried three different ones. The feature set and looks is just too tempting.

I'm going to say one more thing, then I'm going to drop the matter:
When you go to return it, IF they even give you an RMA, the will not pay return shipping, so you're going to be out at least $50 for postage. Just know that for when (not if) you get sick of this thing and want it out of your life.

Good luck. You'll need it.
 
I would like to share a few thoughts without any intent to participate in holy wars around head unit brands.

One important thing about retrofitting a screen in both generations of Mazda 5 is the screen location. It's located quite low and in my opinion, should not be used as a primary source of navigation information. Looking at the screen there takes too long, it is very hard to do this while keeping an eye on the road.

Having said that, I think the screen resolution and screen size are not important if you have to choose one. I would still recommend Teyes brand for the price and functionality. It even has a fan to cool down the head unit, which is activated with the software temperature sensor.
I would absolutely recommend investing extra money into a good wide-angle backup camera and a dash camera setup rather than a 2K screen resolution.

Attached is a picture of my setup. The primary source of navigation is Google Maps on the phone and Waze on the Android unit is used as a secondary option. It really helps with the road conditions updates and a way to look up an alternative route if you're stuck in traffic.
AndriodDashDisplay.jpg

Does the T'eyes come with an internal or external Canbus decoder? What else can you toggle/display?

I'm not too concerned with brand name but rather focus on hardware/specs. The one thing T'eyes has going is that they moved their support to Australia (English!) and taking an active effort to support and enhance their product -kudos to them but this comes at a markup. TEYES Australia. When you pick a brand name, you are paying/getting support for their firmware to address bugs/patches/fixes. FWIW, the good brand names don't sell low spec unit b/c it simply cannot function well. Regardless of brand, all 'new' gen high end models come with chassis designed with an integrated fan but there are a few different layouts for different brands so you'll need to see/know the PCB/chip layout to know it if makes sense. The middle bracket units come with afterthought 'tack on' fans mounted with zip tie or screws, mounted externally and sticks out onto the back.

I've been using a CD slot mounted phone holder so I'm very comfortable with glancing at that location for maps. Realtime traffic, toll road/bridge cost estimates, and gas price searches are mandatory. Interesting you are using a Switch screen protector. Is it necessary!? I have a spare laptop privacy screen, which I consider using but not for scratch protection purposes ;). One more tidbit, I have a spare sim card so the car would be live (can call it, track location, active hot spot host).
 
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@Silentnoise713
Sounds like you're bound and determined to go down this road, no matter how much people are warning you not to, and that's cool. As I said before, I loved the idea of them so much, I tried three different ones. The feature set and looks is just too tempting.

I'm going to say one more thing, then I'm going to drop the matter:
When you go to return it, IF they even give you an RMA, the will not pay return shipping, so you're going to be out at least $50 for postage. Just know that for when (not if) you get sick of this thing and want it out of your life.

Good luck. You'll need it.
I get it and appreciate the forewarnings. B/c I'm technical minded, I need to understand the reasons behind it and not be swayed by blanket or emotional statements esp since I have no past experience. I do have a handful of tablets from really old and cheap to high end and they all have/had their place. The question now is do I really need a HU, or go with a cheap brace yo'self unit or pay to play? Keeping in mind, this car is old and I have no interest investing in it.
 
View attachment 320635
Does the T'eyes come with an internal or external Canbus decoder? What else can you toggle/display?

I'm not too concerned with brand name but rather focus on hardware/specs. The one thing T'eyes has going is that they moved their support to Australia (English!) and taking an active effort to support and enhance their product -kudos to them but this comes at a markup. TEYES Australia. When you pick a brand name, you are paying/getting support for their firmware to address bugs/patches/fixes. FWIW, the good brand names don't sell low spec unit b/c it simply cannot function well. Regardless of brand, all 'new' gen high end models come with chassis designed with an integrated fan but there are a few different layouts for different brands so you'll need to see/know the PCB/chip layout to know it if makes sense. The middle bracket units come with afterthought 'tack on' fans mounted with zip tie or screws, mounted externally and sticks out onto the back.

I've been using a CD slot mounted phone holder so I'm very comfortable with glancing at that location for maps. Realtime traffic, toll road/bridge cost estimates, and gas price searches are mandatory. Interesting you are using a Switch screen protector. Is it necessary!? I have a spare laptop privacy screen, which I consider using but not for scratch protection purposes ;). One more tidbit, I have a spare sim card so the car would be live (can call it, track location, active hot spot host).
This is a generic 2-DIN 7" unit, it came with the external canbus decoder. It's more of a nice to have - it only displays "RADIO" or "MUSIC" or "NAVIGATION" or volume changes, and nothing else. I didn't like how this decoder maps the steering wheel buttons and didn't want to dig deep into it, so, I rewired the steering wheel buttons in a traditional way, KEY1 to key pin.
I think mazda5 (both gen) doesn't have much functionality available over the canbus.

All the head units I got from Aliexpress directly, - never had any problems. The key to success is ordering from trusted sellers, with a reputation backed by the community. This is where I got my head unit: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832735516125.html

Putting things into perspective: this particular model has soldering points for adding extra functionality. You can buy a $5 chip, solder it in and activate Apple carplay. See here.

Switch screen protector is there for, well, protecting the screen from scratches, nothing else. I don't like film protectors, as they are so hard to install, would probably have to remove the stereo. The switch protector, though, is rather easy to install. I don't think it's a good idea to have a privacy screen there. When I drive with polarized glasses on, I find it hard to read the screen at some angles.

Bottom line: go for upper-mid-level teyes (also, see this), no need to overpay for a 360 camera or 2K display. Although, I'd recommend going for a 9" unit for ease of installation.

Here's a proposed list for reference:
Teyes CC3 (not 2K) if you need Apple carplay or Teyes CC2 Plus (not CC2Lp) if you wish to go cheaper. Connection harness (to be used to build your own), external SIM harness (otherwise you have to use an internal sim slot which is super hidden), wide-angle backup camera, camera mount, TMPS sensors.
 
This is a generic 2-DIN 7" unit, it came with the external canbus decoder. It's more of a nice to have - it only displays "RADIO" or "MUSIC" or "NAVIGATION" or volume changes, and nothing else. I didn't like how this decoder maps the steering wheel buttons and didn't want to dig deep into it, so, I rewired the steering wheel buttons in a traditional way, KEY1 to key pin.
I think mazda5 (both gen) doesn't have much functionality available over the canbus.
I am very curious about your Canbus setup, hope you can provide some details. Do you know the model#, version#, and mfg. date of your canbus unit (should be printed on the box)? In my cross-comparison, there appears to be ~5 different version floating around that works with Mazda (they look similar, differ in version and date).

Can you check your Android unit's 'Factory Settings->CAN Type Set' to see what make/model/year/version it is set to?

Does the Canbus unit have an IP address you can logon/configure? Some of the links you ref above appear to be Russian, hope you can understand this and help translate it. It does look like he has another module (exposed board) plugged in but can't understand what he's saying :(
 
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I am very curious about your Canbus setup, hope you can provide some details. Do you know the model#, version#, and mfg. date of your canbus unit (should be printed on the box)? In my cross-comparison, there appears to be ~5 different version floating around that works with Mazda (they look similar, differ in version and date).

Can you check your Android unit's 'Factory Settings->CAN Type Set' to see what make/model/year/version it is set to?

Does the Canbus unit have an IP address you can logon/configure? Some of the links you ref above appear to be Russian, hope you can understand this and help translate it. It does look like he has another module (exposed board) plugged in but can't understand what he's saying :(
Hello, sorry for the wait, here's the information you might need:
"Canbus box" is hooked in between the android unit and the car interface. This is a modular design by Chinese, since there are a lot of different implementations of canbus functionality in the cars.
1. I'll go check settings and post here.

2. But generally speaking, you don't have much choice with the Chinese canbus controllers. Canbus box interacts with the head unit, receiving information such as "what mode is it: radio or navigation software now?" and displays this information on the led screen of the car.
The same with the keys, it acts as a weird interpreter between the keys and the android functionality.
I don't think you can control AC via the canbus in these cars, and even if you can, I don't need "ok google, turn on the AC" functionality.

3. And with teyes, it comes already preconfigured to match the car / android device communication protocols. It was almost plug and play in my case, I just didn't want to control the buttons via canbus, but chose to control these directly, hence, rewired key1 to android stereo instead of to the canbus box.

4. The canbus box doesn't have a networking interface, it talks to the android stereo over rs-something, I guess. The holes on the box are the guides to 5 pins, which is jtag or rs or similar connector, I believe.

5. The links can be translated with google translate, I checked, the translation makes sense. Just right click anywhere on the page and select "translate to English".
The guy in the video is talking about how to wire and configure a canbus box to make the buttons in his car work through the canbus rather than key1 wire.

6. I think there are two "key" wires in mazda5 with BT functionality, I believe. One goes to the OEM stereo to control "up", "down", "vol+", "vol-" and another is for "pick up the phone", "hang up" and "voice button". In such situations, controlling the buttons via canbus is easier to wire.

Bottom line: if you go for teyes, you won't have to mess with canbus wiring and configuration (like what those videos are about), it's already working out of the box. You'll only have to either find or build a proper harness.
 

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These are the settings for the 2014 Mazda 5 that work for me on Otojeta radio from 2020.

For the 2008 Mazda 5 I used to have, the box came pre-configured with the stereo, I didn't even have to dive into the factory settings to select this.
 

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