Hey matt V what kind of bulbs should i get for my p5 looko at the post i posted above thanks.
DDM Tuning Apexcone Raptor HID Kit - $30 plus shipping
- Thread starter Matt V
- Start date
hey Peter5 is that what you have in your car,are the 4.5ks pretty bright are they a more white to blue ratio?
and are the 3k fogs the yellow ones? or should i go more to the 10k hid fog lights what do you thinki just want them bright as hell,
and are you wanting Dg grill or selling one according to you avater?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
feel free to combine your questions into one post... and read the thread before asking questions that are clearly answered please.
i would but there ar allot,it would take like two days to go through them lol okay then i will thanks sorry just dont want to get the wrong bulbs thanks
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
3000K is yellow, 4500ishK is pure white... the further you go from there the more blue it gets.
the grill looks OEM with a painted emblem... not sure what question you're after here.
the grill looks OEM with a painted emblem... not sure what question you're after here.
my bad bro i thought he was talking about a carbon fiber grill lol. okay sorry about the stupid questions didnt know i guess i will read more about these hid bulbs now thanks for the help
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
3k are perfect for fogs (yellow) whereas 10k are going to be blue and not provide that much useable light if any. and 4k (white), 5k (white with a touch of blue) or 6k (a little more blueish) will be what you want for your lo beams. imo anything higher than 6k is pointless as the light output is nil.
Here is what I suggest for your headlights, take my retrofitting and HID experience with a grain of salt but I believe my info is valuable.
Low beam - 4500k (in DDM terms) to 6000k, if you go any higher in Kelvin rating, you will be sacrificing light output for a more blue color.
High beam - HID bulbs require at least 20-30 seconds to warm up and get to operating temperature, as with high bulbs, most people won't have them on for that long, so if the power to the bulb is cut before the bulb is at operating temperature, it will shorten the life of the bulb significantly. I DON'T RECOMMEND HIGH BEAM HID'S UNLESS YOU DO A BI-XENON PROJECTOR SETUP LIKE MINE (as they share the same bulb).
Fog lights - I suggest getting 3000k for the fog lights. DO NOT match your low beam temperature, fog lights are meant to give you greater sight in inclement weather, if you aren't gonna use them for what they are meant for then don't use them at all (just my opinion).
How does Kelvin work?
Kelvin is the temperature rating of HID bulbs. The rule is that the higher the temperature rating is (or K), the more blue/purple the light will burn. The higher the temperature, the dimmer the bulb will be and thus, output less light.
Low beam - 4500k (in DDM terms) to 6000k, if you go any higher in Kelvin rating, you will be sacrificing light output for a more blue color.
High beam - HID bulbs require at least 20-30 seconds to warm up and get to operating temperature, as with high bulbs, most people won't have them on for that long, so if the power to the bulb is cut before the bulb is at operating temperature, it will shorten the life of the bulb significantly. I DON'T RECOMMEND HIGH BEAM HID'S UNLESS YOU DO A BI-XENON PROJECTOR SETUP LIKE MINE (as they share the same bulb).
Fog lights - I suggest getting 3000k for the fog lights. DO NOT match your low beam temperature, fog lights are meant to give you greater sight in inclement weather, if you aren't gonna use them for what they are meant for then don't use them at all (just my opinion).
How does Kelvin work?
Kelvin is the temperature rating of HID bulbs. The rule is that the higher the temperature rating is (or K), the more blue/purple the light will burn. The higher the temperature, the dimmer the bulb will be and thus, output less light.
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I installed the low beam HIDs today, but didn't have the right tools to install the fog lights. I don't see a way other than drilling a bigger hole out of the back of the metal fog light housing as previously mentioned. I had to do some slight modifications for the low beam HIDs, but the fogs appear to be a pain in the ass. Any other insight would be much appreciated.
L
localkineguy
was looking for a dg grill but found a autoexe a week ago, thx. back to subject... if u want brightness u should go with 4.5k ... after that , the higher tempeture ull get , the bluer / purpler ull get.
Thanks, this makes sense.
Has anyone had an issue with any of there lights not turning on? I've had to toggle the headlights off then back on to engage my front passenger light. It's happened a couple times. When I was testing the bulb/ballast it happened and seemed to only happend on the front passenger side. I swapped the bulbs/ballast so it doesn't seem to be the kit itself.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
you're likely not getting enough power to fire the igniters off... this is why people use a battery-direct harness... Doing this is drastically shortening the life of your bulbs, and likely your ballasts.
Would you suggest two sets of wiring harness if I'm installing fogs as well? I'm assuming this is what you're talking about.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
that would be what I'm referring to, what you do is up to you. some here believe that is totally unnecessary. I have mine harness, and my gf's jeep is not... I've been running HIDs for about a year and a half, and I've blown 2 bulbs and a ballast (kit was purchased uses, so I have NO idea how much realtime is on the kit), she's been running em for 2 months with no problems... idk that that means anything but thats the info I ahve to share.
