Any conventional oil that meets the specs (SAE viscosity grade 5W-30, API Service Category SN or newer, ILSAC GF-5 or newer) will work fine and be adequate to maintain the warranty. If you choose, you may upgrade to a syn blend or full syn that meets the same requirements. If you plan on owning this car for many years and many hundreds of thousands of miles, consider the full syn. If you'll be driving in frigid arctic temperatures, get the full syn. If you'll own it long and drive in Death Valley heat, I'd go syn. (I'd probably also go to gasoline-engine 5W-40 for more high heat protection, but that's not in the book.) Synthetics' benefits are that it oxidizes more slowly so it stays good for longer, it thins less when very hot, and thickens less when very cold.
Oil changes are easy on this car. There is an access plate under the engine that is easy to get off. The oil drain plug and filter are right there. We took ours to the dealership for the first free oil change. They forgot to change the oil and filter. Sent the Mrs. home after doing nothing but put the little sticker on the windshield. I use OE filters just as one step of warranty assurance--don't want a argument on that account in case I have a claim. I can always get the oil lab analyzed if I do plan on bringing it in for an engine warranty claim, proving that it has good oil in it at the time of the failure.