Cobb DP - what's the final word?

dcomiskey

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2007 MS3 GT
I might be blind. I searched all over and couldn't find my answer. The bottom line is I'm trying to find hard numbers for the Cobb DP for the MS3. All the literature claims HP gains, but I have yet to see one number or dyno.

So, what's the verdict on this piece? Is it worth the $$ for the gains or not?
 
most DPs are going to have really similar gains. as far as performance goes, there's not a whole lot you really need to do other than making it a bigger pipe and throwing in a high flow cat. i have the cobb DP, and it was definitely good for a big ol' kick in the ass. i like it because i feel it's the best designed DP out there as far as cat efficiency and CEL reduction goes. the placement of their cat really high up on the DP is good for avoiding CELs, since it helps to maintain a high cat temp, which means higher cat efficiency.

the reason you don't see people going out of their way to dyno and "prove" gains is because it's pretty much a waste of money: they (aftermarket DPs) all gain about same anyway.
 
One has to take all mfg hp and torque claims with a grain of salt.

That said, a well-designed DP will eliminate the severe restriction in the neck of the stock DP design, and is likely to have a full 3 inch internal tube diameter. It will either be catless or have a high flow cat, since the original pre-cat in the DP is pretty restrictive. It will be followed by a race pipe (RP that is catless, or the RP will also have a high flow cat. You probably already know all of this.

Most of the DP/RP combos out there from reputable manufacturers have high quality build and meet these basic design needs. So, most are going to perform in a very similar manner, just like most aftermarket SRI's or CAI's will perform similarly.

My point is that you should probably not dwell on whether Cobb's claimed numbers, if any, are accurate. They will be very close to that of any other DP from anyone else, if you are comparing catted to catted or catless to catless.

What is the big deal is that a good DP/RP regardless of the manufacturer, if it is a good product and fits well, is going to produce a huge bang for the buck in increased performance, especially if matched with a good aftermarket intake.

Actual dyno numbers are going to vary from car to car depending on other mods, depending on the model of dyno, depending on where the dyno is located and depending on temperature, humidity and literally a thousand other variables. You can see pretty significant differences in dyno numbers from the same dyno on the same car on different days.

Regardless of the hp and torque numbers (I've got them, but it is pretty meaningless for comparisons to other cars), a simple measure of performance gain can be done with a cheap stop watch by measuring times from 30 mph to 100 mph on the same road surface before and after mods, or by using an accelerometer for the same purpose, but measuring from the moment of launch. The numbers you get apply only to your car, but are highly repeatable.

With my performance mods, which are pretty much a true CAI and a catless DP/RP, and colder plugs, my times have plummeted.

Look at the attached graphic from an accelerometer run a couple weeks ago, time v. speed Even with the really crappy launch, the power, once the car hooked up is amazing.

Then run, do not stop, but run to some vendor of your choice and get a good DP/RP and a set of one step colder plugs. If you don't have a good SRI or CAI, get one at the same time. You'll be very happy you did this. This engine is already running pig rich, so the stock ECU will still be able to keep everything within safe parameters for these mods.
 

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Nice time.

Thanks. I don't take accelerometer times as gospel, but this particular model has a good reputation as being within a tenth of a second of strip timers and is very consistent run to run. I use it for tuning purposes, because it will tell you if your mods are improving your performance.

It will jump on your ass with data to show when you screw up on your launch or help you know when you get a nice one, it is very useful for determining the best shift points in each gear and can show you just how much time you can save by good powershifting technique. It also correlates very closely with an electronic timer or stopwatch once you are launched (hard to launch and operate a stop watch at the same time - lol.)
 
Thanks, MSMS3. Perhaps I have to keep searching on here. I haven't seen any dynos for any DP. I realize they will vary a bit. It's just that I get really annoyed by these manufacturers (and I'm not singling out Cobb, btw) who list increased tq/hp as the first bullet point on an engine mod. If that's true, then at least give us a roundabout number. Say, on average a 9% gain on an otherwise stock engine.
 
okies....I know its superhard not talking about numbers here..but lets say I already have a testpipe..should I still fork out 700 bucks for the cobb dp? will isee much of a difference? 12-15 hp over a test pipe would seem reasonable with the cobb dp but I dont know..I have the cobb sri and htp turbo inlet..combined with the cobb dp im hoping for 260 whp when I get to a dyno. Also how is everyones boosts doing with the dp and no cobb ap? pretty safe? Thank you very much.
 
Since we are on topic... It's there a difference in power gains between catted and catless? I'm sure there is, but how much? It seems like all catted downpipes are $250 more then catless. I live in Florida where they don't test for emisions, I ran my ford focus catless and kinda liked it but kinda didn't. It back fired on off throttle a lot, and a CEL came on. So is it worth the $ to buy catted, or save the cash and go catless?
 
quality piece I understand it and Believe it as well..And I truly believe if your going from bonestock to cobb dp that your gonna really notice the difference. But im going from a testpipe to cobb dp..so all im really changing is slightly larger pipe diameter and a less restrictive cat than the dp stock one..if its gonna give me 5-10 hp gain..then the money to get that power just doesnt justify it..but 15-20..Im wondering if anyone went from a test pipe to cobb dp..and any dyno numbers ran with this dp or a dyno from a cp-e catted dp since it be pretty close between the 2.
 
okies....I know its superhard not talking about numbers here..but lets say I already have a testpipe..should I still fork out 700 bucks for the cobb dp? will isee much of a difference? 12-15 hp over a test pipe would seem reasonable with the cobb dp but I dont know..I have the cobb sri and htp turbo inlet..combined with the cobb dp im hoping for 260 whp when I get to a dyno. Also how is everyones boosts doing with the dp and no cobb ap? pretty safe? Thank you very much.

Don`t forget that it isn`t just about peak numbers. With a properly designed downpipe (the shape of the area the turbo dumps into is very important) you get a much faster spool as well, which means a much broader powerband.
In short, you may or may not get a huge increase in numbers for dyno bragging, but useful power will almost certainly go up significantly. I bet it`s the increase in the lower and mid range power that is most responsible for the butt dyno "holy s***" power gain estimates.
 
Downpipes are not only about flow, this is a common misconception. Alot of the energy in a turbo system is from exhaust expansion by heat not speed of flow through the pipe. two things need to be accomplished by the exhaust in a turbo car: the heat expansion has to be contained by the manifold and directed at the turbine wheel as well as possible, then space needs to be made after the turbo for the spent expansion exhaust gases to escape. A big-ass downpipe is the best way to make #2 happen and is almost always the single largest gaining thing you can do to a factory turbo car.

Secondly, not having cats WILL NOT throw CELs. What throws them is lack of temp from the O2 typically. The restrictive design of the stock DP holds temp around the O2 pretty high. The ECM doesn't care whether you have a cat or not, what it cares about is the signals from the o2 match the expected parameters.
 

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