Catless midpipe increased boost pressure.

I'm thinking of doing megasquirt, since I've wanted to try it for a while. Is megasquirt more cost effective than the ssafc?
 
megasquirt doesnt have a ton of support for these cars yet, but people have made it happen, and i know im personally hoping to run it eventually. if you want to control timing, its the only thing that can advance it aside from a $1000 standalone. you have to be dedicated and knowledgable about soldering, hardware, software, the sensors/fuel system/ignition system on these cars, tuning... and good at finding your own solutions.

someone correct me if theres a good MS thread out there, but ive never seen one that had a ton of info.
 
HP gain?

Just curious as to what kind of hp gain should be expected with an SLS Catless midpipe on a completely stock exhaust, if any?
 
So I've noticed that at WOT it is more like 9.5psi. But, when I first give it throttle, it spikes to about 11-12psi before settling to 9psi, I'm assuming this is a delay in the wastegate opening. Is this what blows the motor up? Or is it boosting to 10 at low rpm? I've noticed that by 2.5k rpm it will boost to 10psi. Does changing the vacuum line to the WG eliminate the boost spike?
 
I believe a dedicated vacuum line for the WG will help with the spike but it's been a while since I've looked into it.
 
probably not, the ATP has a tendency for small spikes. [edit: no shame in trying. generally the mantra is to use a dedicated line to the WGA anyways]

blowing up engines in these cars cant be boiled down to one thing, its more like "when the stars align". its the bad tune, weak rods, bad tranny, etc, etc etc.

if you have a boost spike too low in the RPM youre out a tranny. the torque added after spooling is just too much for our third (and sometimes fourth) gear. the best way to avoid the issue is to avoid boosting past a couple psi when youre in third or fourth and are below 3500 on the tach. personally, i dont boost in third, fourth, or fifth at all unless im over 4000.

the other issue is the engine... basically, if the spike is at that 400-500 RPM window where the lean spot in the WOT open loop is, it leans out and detonates until you spin a bearing or throw a rod. nothing you can do to avoid that except get a tune and hope you have a freak engine... some have survived 12psi with no tune or FMIC, some have blown totally stock.
 
Since adding the midpipe my car spikes at 10ish but settles at between 6 and 7 (all stock).

But in general, like yudkip said, just be smart about it and not boost in 3 - 5 in the lower rpm ranges.
 
I'm still debating whether running colder plugs, ssafc and a wideband is necessary. Seems like people get away without these things without any problems.
 
if I wasn't running 5-6 psi, I'd step to colder plugs... believe it or not plug temp can significantly change your AFR.
 
if I wasn't running 5-6 psi, I'd step to colder plugs... believe it or not plug temp can significantly change your AFR.

This would mean that having the correct heat range plug is very important. So, how do we know that running 1 range colder is correct for 9psi? Do we have actual proof of this? AFR-RPM charts?
 
This would mean that having the correct heat range plug is very important. So, how do we know that running 1 range colder is correct for 9psi? Do we have actual proof of this? AFR-RPM charts?

if you're in the 9 range, you want to go a step colder. yes, its been documented on widebands. (no, not by me)
 
Could someone help locate the difference in AFRs between stock plugs and 1 range colder at 9 psi? Was it on this forum?
 
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