Spencer_P : 2003 Mazda Protege5 Feb 16, 2020 #84 Ohhh...... well I feel stupid. I didn’t remove it fully because I figured it’d be a pain to get back in
Ohhh...... well I feel stupid. I didn’t remove it fully because I figured it’d be a pain to get back in
P pcb The Diagram Dude : 2002 MP5 Feb 16, 2020 #87 Now comes that bolt that goes through part #8. Good luck.
Spencer_P : 2003 Mazda Protege5 Feb 16, 2020 #89 Do you think I should transfer over this rubber bushing/washer? The new one didn’t come with one
P pcb The Diagram Dude : 2002 MP5 Feb 16, 2020 #92 I never use it personally. I use anti-seize because of all my rust issues.
P pcb The Diagram Dude : 2002 MP5 Feb 16, 2020 #95 Not in and out of the knuckle but the CV shaft itself needs to extend when the wheel drops so there's movement at the one rubber boot.
Not in and out of the knuckle but the CV shaft itself needs to extend when the wheel drops so there's movement at the one rubber boot.
P pcb The Diagram Dude : 2002 MP5 Feb 16, 2020 #96 The part under the boot of the drive shaft in the middle of the picture Moves In and Out
P pcb The Diagram Dude : 2002 MP5 Feb 16, 2020 #97 The part under the boot on the left side of the picture only pivots
Spencer_P : 2003 Mazda Protege5 Feb 16, 2020 #99 The knuckle isn’t far out enough for the ball joint to go where it needs to. I guess this is because the alignment is off? Maybe I need to take off the tie rod end. It’s quickly getting cold and it’s gonna rain tomorrow
The knuckle isn’t far out enough for the ball joint to go where it needs to. I guess this is because the alignment is off? Maybe I need to take off the tie rod end. It’s quickly getting cold and it’s gonna rain tomorrow
P pcb The Diagram Dude : 2002 MP5 Feb 16, 2020 #100 I kinda forget but you may have to remove the tie rod end to feed the axle into the knuckle.