Boring Daily Build
- Thread starter Spencer_P
- Start date
The PO of my parts car used a different vacuum solenoid to replace his VICS.
It worked but the connector was a different size so he had to use little jumper wires to connect it.
I forget what solenoid he used? Purge Control maybe?
I think you're fine with a cheap replacement. Especially when the OEM is 5-10 times more expensive.
Every part I've replaced on my car has been aftermarket.
It worked but the connector was a different size so he had to use little jumper wires to connect it.
I forget what solenoid he used? Purge Control maybe?
I think you're fine with a cheap replacement. Especially when the OEM is 5-10 times more expensive.
Every part I've replaced on my car has been aftermarket.
The one under the rear of the car is the canister drain cut valve CDCV
The VICS solenoid valve is located in the engine bay.
Compare the picture to what you have.
The PRC solenoid valve is right beside the VICS and VTCS solenoid valves.
The VICS and VTCS valves are the same but the PRC valve is slightly different in how it attaches to the bracket and the wire connector is slightly different.
A lot of suppliers of these valves have different names for them so it's best to compare the pictures.
The VICS solenoid valve is located in the engine bay.
Compare the picture to what you have.
The PRC solenoid valve is right beside the VICS and VTCS solenoid valves.
The VICS and VTCS valves are the same but the PRC valve is slightly different in how it attaches to the bracket and the wire connector is slightly different.
A lot of suppliers of these valves have different names for them so it's best to compare the pictures.
Yea, it should be a 5-minute job but the wire connector can be kinda stuck/seized as well as the vacuum tubes.
The cold makes it worse.
Don't just pull on the vacuum tubes. Grip the tube with pliers at the end where it is connected to the solenoid and gently twist it to break it free before you pull.
The electrical connector can be a pain too.
You have to hold the tab in while you pull.
Try not to pull on the wires.
Try to wobble it a bit to help crack it free.
The cold makes it worse.
Don't just pull on the vacuum tubes. Grip the tube with pliers at the end where it is connected to the solenoid and gently twist it to break it free before you pull.
The electrical connector can be a pain too.
You have to hold the tab in while you pull.
Try not to pull on the wires.
Try to wobble it a bit to help crack it free.
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
I see three solenoid valves that all resemble the rockauto part. I know you said to remove it but what differences am I looking for?
also how does the low beam headlight bulb come out? I want to order new brighter bulbs but some are just a bulb while others have a bulb with a connector/socket. I’m not sure which ones I need.
also how does the low beam headlight bulb come out? I want to order new brighter bulbs but some are just a bulb while others have a bulb with a connector/socket. I’m not sure which ones I need.
Yeah, those three all look the same to me...
The diagram for the VICS shows the connector standing straight up, but on your car, the connector is horizontal???
I think the Rockauto one is the correct one.
Plus, it's almost always the VICS valve that people have to replace, so that is probably the correct one.
The diagram for the VICS shows the connector standing straight up, but on your car, the connector is horizontal???
I think the Rockauto one is the correct one.
Plus, it's almost always the VICS valve that people have to replace, so that is probably the correct one.
The low beam bulbs are a huge PITA.
The spring-clip is tricky and hard to reach and the low beam bulbs are always burning out for a lot of people.
(although I've had great luck with mine??)
You might want to stick with the regular wattage to hopefully get a more reliable bulb.
Use some dielectric grease on the terminals and you'll get more bulb life.
You might need new adaptors for the bulbs.
They get all burnt and crispy.
Be careful not to throw them out with your old bulbs...
The spring-clip is tricky and hard to reach and the low beam bulbs are always burning out for a lot of people.
(although I've had great luck with mine??)
You might want to stick with the regular wattage to hopefully get a more reliable bulb.
Use some dielectric grease on the terminals and you'll get more bulb life.
You might need new adaptors for the bulbs.
They get all burnt and crispy.
Be careful not to throw them out with your old bulbs...
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
I started the Mazda today and immediately it starts smoking from the front of the engine. I got videos of the smoke, I'll post the link to them. I started it the first time and there was smoke then the second time there was SMOKE and then the third there was only a light mist of smoke unless I revved it. The header seemed to be very hot considering the temp had barely passed the cold mark but I didn't think to check the temp with my IR gun. It looked like oil was leaking out of the gasket between the upper cat and header. Idk if the cat is clogged again causing the header to get so hot although it's only 4,000 miles old. Hopefully, all the oil on top of the piston is burned off so I can pull the plugs tomorrow and check for oil.
