Another turbo P5 thread...
- Thread starter khaosman
- Start date
Probably not a bad idea 
I need to put those brackets on them anyhow... they were both broken from my headlight painting extravaganza
Test fit the turbo, holy crap this line is going to be short. I wussed out and don't want to drill my block, so I'm getting a fitting on the pan. zomg last minute shopping ftl
I need to put those brackets on them anyhow... they were both broken from my headlight painting extravaganza Test fit the turbo, holy crap this line is going to be short. I wussed out and don't want to drill my block, so I'm getting a fitting on the pan. zomg last minute shopping ftl
GMalatrasi
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Proteg5, soon to be Turbo
Wait... The fitting you JUST sold me??? (And by sold I mean gave me for free, thanks again)
Lol, sorry but that's funny...
Good luck
PS: Good work with the picture taking... But keep it up, I wanna see everything.
It'll help me when I start my build.
Lol, sorry but that's funny...
Good luck
PS: Good work with the picture taking... But keep it up, I wanna see everything.
It'll help me when I start my build.
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
good work!! i remember the day!!
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=33324&d=1100226353
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
dave45090 said:
mam sleeper..
GMalatrasi said:
lol yes, and I agree, it is funny just because this is so ridiculous
Anyways, the damn pan is ready to go on. It looks like it should clear the down-pipe. We'll find out soon.
I bought a oil filter sandwich plate thing... $32... next day shipping... $60. Oh man lol
If I had an MSP ECU, I could probably fire this beast up tomorrow. But I don't, so I get to have fun wiring!
An oil filter sandwich plate? For what, an oil cooler? For the oil feed I'd just go off the BPST fitting that the stock oil pressure sensor uses. I dunno who made the feed adapter I used (gives two 1/8NPT oil sources, and also allows the stock oil pressure sender to plug in on the end), but I bought it with the oil feed kit from www.stealthmodeperformance.com
For the pressure sender, I don't want the big thing hanging off that little thread for the stock sender. I'm going to use one of those T's for the feed.
edit: heart-attack averted, or at least post-poned. I found two 90* bends and some more couplers, hopefully that will aid in my MacGyver style piping. If not, I'll have to pick up some drier vent hose or something (nailbyt)
edit: heart-attack averted, or at least post-poned. I found two 90* bends and some more couplers, hopefully that will aid in my MacGyver style piping. If not, I'll have to pick up some drier vent hose or something (nailbyt)
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GMalatrasi
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Proteg5, soon to be Turbo
Kits? What do you mean? turbo kits?
Rubber hoses for what?
Rubber hoses for what?
making the stainless steel lines is a painful process. wear heavy leather gloves, use a good AN lube, and definitely when attaching the lines use an aluminum AN wrench if the fittings are aluminum. Getting the fittings on right is a PITA, if you have a bench vise with aluminum inserts to grasp the fitting it makes it easier (I think it might be impossible otherwise).
Pre-made lines ftw, but what if you don't know the exact length (in the case of most of us with a bung welded to the oil pan.. since none of us have it in the same exact place we can't really help eachother with that. I just mounted one fitting, screwed it onto my pan, then figured out how much length I needed to clear the downpipe with sufficient air space (also determined what angle fitting I would need coming off the turbo.. I needed to use at least a 45 degree, and even then the clearance between the fitting and downpipe is crazy tight so a close-radius fitting would have been a good idea).
Pre-made lines ftw, but what if you don't know the exact length (in the case of most of us with a bung welded to the oil pan.. since none of us have it in the same exact place we can't really help eachother with that. I just mounted one fitting, screwed it onto my pan, then figured out how much length I needed to clear the downpipe with sufficient air space (also determined what angle fitting I would need coming off the turbo.. I needed to use at least a 45 degree, and even then the clearance between the fitting and downpipe is crazy tight so a close-radius fitting would have been a good idea).
Yep yep yep. My hands are feeling nice, but it is done. I ended up using a 45* off of the turbo and a 90* at the pan. It worked really well. The hose portion part is less than 8" long. It took a couple tries to get it fitting perfect, but I almost had it the first time perfectly. Then I freaked out because I forgot the other dp was bigger. Turns out it fits easier with the GHL pipe. Oh, and the GHL dp clears the pan fine as well.
Vice is essential. I also borrowed a set of clippers made specifically for cutting AN lines... that helped so much. I had no problem what so ever with fraying. Slid in with ease each time.
Anyways, I have to return that tool to the shop. This shop rocks, probably the only place in town with AN stuff. Unfortunately it is at least a 30 mile roundtrip AND I've gone there two times this week, now going on three. Oh well, better than overnight shipping! I'm also going to have an extra O2 bung welded on.
What kind of drill bit do people use for the cast iron?! Holy crap. I bought a "heavy metal" cobalt drill bit and it does nothing. I managed to make a dent similar to it being shot with a bb gun. That sucks! Maybe this shop can do it. Or maybe I'll have a bung welded in the pipe, probably be accurate enough.
I'll have pics later, the camera is charging and I gotta get this stuff done!
P.S. Kansei, thanks for all the help so far
Vice is essential. I also borrowed a set of clippers made specifically for cutting AN lines... that helped so much. I had no problem what so ever with fraying. Slid in with ease each time.
Anyways, I have to return that tool to the shop. This shop rocks, probably the only place in town with AN stuff. Unfortunately it is at least a 30 mile roundtrip AND I've gone there two times this week, now going on three. Oh well, better than overnight shipping! I'm also going to have an extra O2 bung welded on.
What kind of drill bit do people use for the cast iron?! Holy crap. I bought a "heavy metal" cobalt drill bit and it does nothing. I managed to make a dent similar to it being shot with a bb gun. That sucks! Maybe this shop can do it. Or maybe I'll have a bung welded in the pipe, probably be accurate enough.
I'll have pics later, the camera is charging and I gotta get this stuff done!
P.S. Kansei, thanks for all the help so far
There's clippers made for AN lines? I just used and air-powered angle grinder hahaha.
Cast iron is a freakin b**** ++. I went through 4 drill bits drilling the hold for my EGT probe (100% hidden on the backside of the turbo manifold). What are you drilling into? and for what? (egt perhaps?)
Cast iron is a freakin b**** ++. I went through 4 drill bits drilling the hold for my EGT probe (100% hidden on the backside of the turbo manifold). What are you drilling into? and for what? (egt perhaps?)
Yep, and the clippers are amazing. Worth their weight in gold. No fraying at all!
The guy at the shop said "cast iron is pretty soft" as we were walking around. I responded "Yea, if you have that" pointing at their 5 foot tall drill press. He said tapping cast iron sucks though. So we just tapped right below the collectors of the DP. Also got the O2 bung on. And found out a place that has pre-bent pieces of aluminum or stainless steel, so I won't be screwed if I need 'em for the IC!
That is a good idea on the back of the manifold though. I didn't want to hack up my heat shield.
The guy at the shop said "cast iron is pretty soft" as we were walking around. I responded "Yea, if you have that" pointing at their 5 foot tall drill press. He said tapping cast iron sucks though. So we just tapped right below the collectors of the DP. Also got the O2 bung on. And found out a place that has pre-bent pieces of aluminum or stainless steel, so I won't be screwed if I need 'em for the IC!
That is a good idea on the back of the manifold though. I didn't want to hack up my heat shield.
