Another turbo P5 thread...

[khaosman]

Think I found why the rotor is scored, looks like the clip was dragging.

Maybe the brake wasn't grabbing like I thought though, just that clip. There is rub marks on the inner fender well, wtf. The wheel/tire looks ok, but that doesn't mean much since they kind of look like s*** anyway.

 

[khaosman]

Brake fixed, hopefully, wheel back on. At full left lock, the passenger wheel is real close to fender like the marks show. Under load I bet it does indeed rub. This boggles my mind since I can't imagine the alignment has been affected that much.

While dinking around underneath I also noticed that might IC pipes didn't line up with the cuts I made in the plastic under-tray thing. That got me thinking about the pipes because when I test fit them before cutting and coupling, it looked good and not 2" off the ground, something more reasonable.

Turns out I put one of my pipes in backwards, DURRR. It fits a whole lot better and now is probably even with the bottom of the oil pan. Cool!

 

[dave45090]

Great! Make sure and let us know how it is running. I'm keeping a close eye on this. I ordered my IC piping today. All I have left to buy is oil lines, misc. hardware and BOV.

 

[khaosman]

Alignment is way out of whack, mad toe-in on the front. That explains the rubbing and other problems. The brakes look ok. I'll get a better idea tomorrow after the alignment.

Then hopefully I can get it tuned decent so I can boost :[ sad panda

 

[xelderx]

What model fans did you end up with?

 

[khaosman]

What model fans did you end up with?

Eh some 12" fans I got for $100-110 shipped total. It spins, haha...

 

[khaosman]

You guys are going to die of laughter once you see this alignment sheet...

I'll post it up after I get done eating my lunch.

 

[khaosman]

You guys are going to die of laughter once you see this alignment sheet...

I'll post it up after I get done eating my lunch.

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

i need my alignment done.

 

[djarkitek]

nice! lol (dance)

 

[khaosman]

Drove it, woohoo! It feels pretty good. The tune is still wicked crappy, gets WAY too rich. Hopefully I can get a decent tune done tonight. Need someone to help.

 

[ctt 1982]

wow, that's some crazy toe in. isn't that a little to much negative camber?good luck with the tuning, if i wasn't like 2000miles away i'd give a hand. it makes it a lot easier to tune by yourself with datalogging.

 

[khaosman]

Yeah the alignment is definitely NOT where I'd like it to be. Last season when I had it aligned it was at about -2.5* camber up front, and -1.5* camber rear. Now it is all sorts of whack. Plus they have new people there so I couldn't go in the bay and mess with it/watch like normal. Annoying.

 

[mspeedP5]

You need to insist that either you are sitting in the drivers seat or they use weights equivalent to yours while they are settng it up.

 

[ctt 1982]

^^^ agreed. if they won't let you, tell them you'll take your business else where.

 

[fLyPiNoY7]

damn i wish that my alignment shop gave me a printout when they did mine...my steering wheel is all sorts of crooked when im driving straight

 

[khaosman]

Right now I'm worried about getting the car running good, then I'll go back to get a good alignment for autocrossing.

I didn't tune any but I did notice that it barely builds boost. I must have a leak. I can hear a hissing but can't find it. arg. More problems, of course!

 

[dave45090]

I'm finishing up gathering all my misc. hardware, gaskets and oil lines to get started in a couple of weeks. Now that I am down to the nitty gritty I've been studying this and other threads pretty hard. I'm curious as to why you guys are drilling into your block? It seems brian has the best idea here......http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90723&highlight=turbo+oil+lines

Would you agree.....or am I missing something? Also if I configure the length of the oil line first, can I buy it from Summit or whoever already made up with the fittings on the ends?

Any input would be appreciated.

worst thing possible happened, twice

friend was putting in oil pressure t thing. it broke in the block. got a screw extractor. that broke in the bolt in the block. **** you craftsman, now come fix my engine.

ideas? probably going to pull the motor i guess.

now to drink away my sorrows...

Welcome to my club. I broke off a tap inside the block when i was trying to get the new oil pressure sender tapped. I ran out of time trying to fix it though and had to weld the whole thing shut in there. unless you're like me and had NO OTHER OPTION, dont do that though.

As for the tap....taps are a b**** and i could not get it out with anything, we tried the strongest drills out there, and every screw extracting method also, including heating it up and jb welding something to the tap and then turning it. nothing worked....my only other option was to pull the motor out and take it to a machine shop . I HIGHLY suggest to take that approach if nothing else works becuase they should be able to get it out. the only hard part is pulling that motor out. I think Sam hates me a little for welding my pil sender shut on the block but i had a horrible situation so keep working on it. And if you got as stressed out as I did, take some time off it cause i had to have like 5 people calm me down during the days of and after i broke the tap off. DIE TAPS DIE!

 

[khaosman]

I'm finishing up gathering all my misc. hardware, gaskets and oil lines to get started in a couple of weeks. Now that I am down to the nitty gritty I've been studying this and other threads pretty hard. I'm curious as to why you guys are drilling into your block? It seems brian has the best idea here......http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90723&highlight=turbo+oil+lines

Would you agree.....or am I missing something? Also if I configure the length of the oil line first, can I buy it from Summit or whoever already made up with the fittings on the ends?

Any input would be appreciated.

lol drilling into our block because we broke the brass tee that feeds the oil in there. So don't do that and you'll be good

ATPturbo.com sells premade lines. Making them isn't very hard though. Especially if you buy the stainless steel line cutter, which is like $30. Then you don't have to worry about frayed ends. Also you can buy a feed line kit here: http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/

And then get the drain flange for GT turbos here:
http://www.function-7.com/


I'm still hunting my leak, or at least what I think is a leak. I'm going to build a pressure tester thing but couldn't find one piece so I'll just wait until after work tomorrow to get that.

 

[khaosman]

Still can't boost :mad: Something is f'd with the wastegate. We tested it with a pump, and it actuates, so that is good. I'm thinking it is stuck open and thus not building pressure. I'm going to try a different vacuum source tomorrow after I buy parts to tap it on the hot pipe.

If that doesn't work, I'm going to probably pull the turbo and inspect the wastegate and maybe put the stock one back on.

Found a vacuum leak, using a spray bottle with really soapy water works wonders. The t-bolt clamps on the ebay piping SUCK. I knew they'd leak and unfortunately I ran out of nice clampco clamps that were the right size.