2021 CX-5 GTR Oil Filter Question

erhayes

Contributor
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2022CX5 PP
I intend to use the OEM oil filter on my vehicle for the first couple of oil changes and then switch to a Fram filter. I remember several different filters are made in different countries. Can someone school me on the OEM filters that my dealer might stock? Thank you Ed
 
Solution
So you bought a new 2021 CX-5 GTR?

The oil filter from factory on 2.5T is Japanese made Tokyo Roki PY8W-14-302. Unfortunately Mazda North American Operations have stopped supplying PY8W-14-302 since Dec. 2019 and it’s superseded by Thai made Denso 1WPY-14-302.

I wouldn’t use Fram filter, as aftermarket oil filters are one size for both 2.5T and 2.5L, whereas OEM’s have 2 different oil filters.
20220906_175929.jpg

This I just purchased oil filter for a 2021 cx5 Signature model 2.5L Turbo in Canada. August 2021 from my car dealer. I had to pay $2 for the Aluminium washer, which i though is part of the filter and price, but no.
 
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This I just purchased oil filter for a 2021 cx5 Signature model 2.5L Turbo in Canada. August 2021 from my car dealer. I had to pay $2 for the Aluminium washer, which i though is part of the filter and price, but no.

The dealer has always thrown in the washers when I buy filters (they just toss them in the box before they go on the shelf). Sounds like your dealer might be one of the more money-hungry ones. I'd avoid going to that particular dealer for anything other than warranty or recall work if possible.
 
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Is it possible to do an oil change on 2021 cx5 2.5L Turbo without raising car? ie. Is the car high enough to crawl under to remove oil filter etc?
First off, a disclaimer that mine are 2019 and 2020 non-turbos. However, I believe the vehicle clearance and oil change particulars are the same for all of these vehicles. If someone knows otherwise for certain, please post that information, and I will edit this.

I used ramps for the first one, but have since done all oil changes without them. IMO the key factor is your frame size. I'm not a big guy, and have no problem sliding far enough under to get the plastic panel off and access the filter and drain plug. Although I'm able to slide far enough under to get my face directly under the filter/plug, I only go part of the way in when working on them - just far enough to be able to extend my arms comfortably.

Now I also will readily admit that the constrained work space causes limitations to movement, such as getting leverage. So if you're going to try this, I strongly recommend using a breaker bar to remove the drain plug, and a torque wrench for reinstallation. And my tool of choice for filter removal is 16" slip jaw pilers, which is a very useful tool that has come in handy for me for a variety of tasks. And I have no problem reinstalling the pre-filled oil filter just by feeling the threads, and hand-tightening the filter is no problem either.

I'm completely certain that I can do the oil change with the vehicle on the ground just as fast I could with it up on ramps. And I understand that most folks would probably not choose to do it this way, but for me it's simply one less thing I have to do for an oil change.
 
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What's the difference between A and B? I see only B is available.

Also, what is the specs on the crush washer if I wanted to source it on Amazon?
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Bumping the question again: What's the difference between A and B?

One possibility is that the part just has a slightly different part number depending on the market that it was originally sourced from. For example, when I was shopping for a second set of TPMS sensors, the brand new OEM set had a part number that ended in A, and I found a set on eBay that was the exact same part number, but with a B at the end. I contacted the service desk at my local dealership, and they said the B sensors were likely from a different region, but they were a perfectly suitable replacement. This might explain the slightly higher price (to account for importing the filter for resale in North America).

Another possibility is that part A has been superseded by part B. As far as why the part was replaced/updated, no idea. Try contacting your dealer or Mazda for clarification, but it shouldn't matter as it's a qualified substitution.
 
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Bumping the question again: What's the difference between A and B?
My interpretation on this for Mazda parts is Mazda made some changes to the part either for enhancement or cost-cutting, and made it to become the newer version to supersede the older version, represented by the last character on part number, A to nothing、B to A、or C to B. If there’s a vender change, most likely Mazda will use a totally different part number like those oil filters from Tokyo Roki and Denso.
 
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AFAIK, you're supposed use your floor jack on the pinch weld(shown with RED patch on first two photos). The inside with felt area is just a sheet metal, not strong enough to support the weight of your vehicle(don't ask me how I know it). Scissor jack on the same spot as well.

Another, you should always use jack stands as a pair. You've been lucky this time. Is your floor jack rated for 3 ton? Looks kind of skimpy.
Try the scissor jack that comes with the car and you will see that the inward part of the scissor jack contacts with the area Glee217 is red-marking in his photos. The pinch weld is positioned in the cut-out between the inward and outward parts of the scissor jack and is not contacting with the scissor jack. Additionally, the pinch weld is not designed to get the whole weight as it can easily bend.
 
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For the oil change I jacked up the front dimpled area but honestly could have just done it w/o jacking it up since its an awd with a higher ground clearance. I turned the filter 3/4 of a turn instead of one full turn since it was very tight already with my bare hands. The oil is amount is 5 quarts.

For tire rotation, I used a hydraulic jack w/round rubber puck on the jacking point that is located inwards (felt padding) of the fin for front and scissor jack for the rear. I used the hydraulic jack on this jacking point because this is the jacking point for the scissor jack (not the outward area of the fin). Underneath the felt is good solid jacking point for the front (last three photos). The rear though is alot narrower so I only used a scissor jack. I also had jack stands for the front (dimples) and rear differential.

The tires were rotated front to back this time, then next time the rear swap with each other and fronts swap with each other and repeat.

I probably could just use the hydraulic jack and keep jacking it higher so it can lift the rear w/o the scissor jack.
Thanks for the photos it's really helpful. Is there a chance you still have a photo of the rear narrower underneath the felt?
 
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Thanks for the photos it's really helpful. Is there a chance you still have a photo of the rear narrower underneath the felt?
Its the 3rd photo from #54
1671221911068.jpeg

Edit
Its similar to the front contact point but narrower unfortunately I didnt take a photo of it.
 
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Thanks for confirming. Hopefully your CX-5 ownership is problem-free!
I will do 2nd oil change tomorrow with 6,896mi.

Here is photos of:
First photo: 1st oil change level at 2,948mi 1/29/22
2nd photo: 1st oil changed now at 6,896mi 1/23/23

So no consumption yet it seems.
 

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I will do 2nd oil change tomorrow with 6,896mi.

Here is photos of:
First photo: 1st oil change level at ,_2,948mi 1/29/22
2nd photo: 1st oil changed now at 6,896mi 1/23/23

So no consumption yet it seems.
So what kind of 5W-30 oil do you use?
 
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I will do 2nd oil change tomorrow with 6,896mi.

Here is photos of:
First photo: 1st oil change level at 2,948mi 1/29/22
2nd photo: 1st oil changed now at 6,896mi 1/23/23

So no consumption yet it seems.
Well with the DI you may not see oil consumption. I fact you oil level may go up due to fuel dilution.
If it smells like gas I'd think strong about doing an oil analysis to see if that true or not! You can get a Wix kit at any NAPA Store!
 
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Well with the DI you may not see oil consumption. I fact you oil level may go up due to fuel dilution.
If it smells like gas I'd think strong about doing an oil analysis to see if that true or not! You can get a Wix kit at any NAPA Store!
Hmm I dont think it looks increased but I will smell away when I so the change on Tuesday. I have the Japanese filter already but whats the Wix kit part number so I can do the dilution check?
 
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