2021 CX-5 GTR Oil Filter Question

erhayes

Contributor
:
2022CX5 PP
I intend to use the OEM oil filter on my vehicle for the first couple of oil changes and then switch to a Fram filter. I remember several different filters are made in different countries. Can someone school me on the OEM filters that my dealer might stock? Thank you Ed
 
Solution
So you bought a new 2021 CX-5 GTR?

The oil filter from factory on 2.5T is Japanese made Tokyo Roki PY8W-14-302. Unfortunately Mazda North American Operations have stopped supplying PY8W-14-302 since Dec. 2019 and it’s superseded by Thai made Denso 1WPY-14-302.

I wouldn’t use Fram filter, as aftermarket oil filters are one size for both 2.5T and 2.5L, whereas OEM’s have 2 different oil filters.
I bought 21 Japanese Tokyo Roki PE01-14-302A oil filters for my 2016 CX-5 with 2.5L NA from Med Center Mazda back in Nov. 2016.

PatrickGSR94 got his OEM OCV solenoid PE01-14-420A from Partsouq.com via eBay with much better price and super fast shipping (within several days after he placed the order):

2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

Tchman2016 and VQ35DE both got Mazda OEM Japanese Tokyo Roki oil filters for their 2.5L NA and 2.5T from Partsouq.com (via eBay?) with similar good experience too:

Oil filter won't fit

Of course YMMV. Let us know.
Just received my loot from partsouq.com via dhl. They seem to opened some heavy parts and packaged it with alot of bubble wrap then some more lol.

One thing I noticed is that the drain plug gaskets were priced as each (one) and not quantity of 5. So I got 7 gaskets instead of what I thought 7 x quantity 5 = 35.

Oil filters seem genuine according to what I read.

Air filter is heavier and thicker material vs a WIX air filter I have.

Let me know what you guys think lol

Edit 3
Air filter seem made of polyester material and not paper. Going to do first oil change tomorrow with Mobile 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 which is gf-5 not gf-6 so am I good?
 

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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Just received my loot from partsouq.com via dhl. They seem to opened some heavy parts and packaged it with alot of bubble wrap then some more lol.

One thing I noticed is that the drain plug gaskets were priced as each (one) and not quantity of 5. So I got 7 gaskets instead of what I thought 7 x quantity 5 = 35.

Oil filters seem genuine according to what I read.

Air filter is heavier and thicker material vs a WIX air filter I have.

Let me know what you guys think lol

Edit 2
Air filter seem made of polyester material and not paper. Going to do first oil change tomorrow with Mobile 1 Extended Performance 5w-30.
As reported before, the shipping by partsouq.com from Dubai, United Arab Emirates is really fast, like ordering parts within the US.

From pictures shown, all parts look like genuine Mazda parts.

When you posted your order list I was wondering why you only ordered 7 pieces of 9956-41-400 engine oil and ATF drain plug aluminum washers, but you’re getting 20 PY8W-14-302 Japanese oil filters. Yes 9956-41-400 is the part number for one washer at $0.60. This’s still much cheaper than US price which is $1.28 MSRP! And the bag of the aluminum washer shows part number “99564-1400” but it does say “QTY. 5”.

So partsouq.com indeed is a good online source for Mazda OEM parts!
 
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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Edit 3
Air filter seem made of polyester material and not paper. Going to do first oil change tomorrow with Mobile 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 which is gf-5 not gf-6 so am I good?
Actually I just noticed that your Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 full synthetic oil seems to be odd as it’s only ILSAC GF-5 / API SN PLUS certified. Is it the old stock? Personally I’d use newer and better GF-6(A) / SP oil, but really GF-5 / SN PLUS oil should be fine to your 2.5T.

65A683B2-B3F9-47D0-9E03-800602CF01D5.jpeg

557CBC89-3748-4AEB-9974-C36E1A016238.jpeg
 
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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
If you have a 2021 CX-5, check your oil level before you start to drain the old oil to verify if you have any sign of oil consumption issue.

The manual says you need 5.1 quarts for oil change on the 2.5T, but in reality you may need up to 5.5 ~ 5.6 quarts to get to the Max mark of the dipstick based on member’s experience depending on how long you let the old oil drain.
 
Upvote 0
As reported before, the shipping by partsouq.com from Dubai, United Arab Emirates is really fast, like ordering parts within the US.

From pictures shown, all parts look like genuine Mazda parts.

When you posted your order list I was wondering why you only ordered 7 pieces of 9956-41-400 engine oil and ATF drain plug aluminum washers, but you’re getting 20 PY8W-14-302 Japanese oil filters. Yes 9956-41-400 is the part number for one washer at $0.60. This’s still much cheaper than US price which is $1.28 MSRP! And the bag of the aluminum washer shows part number “99564-1400” but it does say “QTY. 5”.

So partsouq.com indeed is a good online source for Mazda OEM parts!
I thought it was suppose to be 7 x 5 quantity as shown on package but nope I only got 7 quantity. I got 20 filters so thought I would have 35 gaskets, so 20 for oil change and the rest for trans oil and spare. Anyways not bad I guess.

And for the oil as long as I change it accordingly then I wont trip too much if its not the latest energy conserving oil lol. I will also use 303 spray for the under carriage bushing so it will preserve the rubber while I’m under there as well as tire rotation on every oil change. Also got to be careful when jacking from the side since there was a long thread just about that topic lol.

Anything else I should do?
 
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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
I thought it was suppose to be 7 x 5 quantity as shown on package but nope I only got 7 quantity. I got 20 filters so thought I would have 35 gaskets, so 20 for oil change and the rest for trans oil and spare. Anyways not bad I guess.
Yes it may be confusing but 9956-41-400 is the part number for one aluminum washer, as there’s no such thing with a Mazda part number which is for a package of 5 washers. You can compare the price as mentioned above and figure it out the price for one from partsouq.com is already amazingly low comparing to the US price. What I’m trying to say is partsouq.com did nothing wrong giving you 7 washers. You can get more washers from Amazon or eBay, either OEM (very expensive), or aftermarket (cheaper) aluminum washers.

1E10992E-A942-4DF6-8127-002147DA4802.jpeg


A66E8C52-F16E-40B0-A4DA-A2E32282D403.jpeg



And for the oil as long as I change it accordingly then I wont trip too much if its not the latest energy conserving oil lol. I will also use 303 spray for the under carriage bushing so it will preserve the rubber while I’m under there as well as tire rotation on every oil change. Also got to be careful when jacking from the side since there was a long thread just about that topic lol.
The way the drain plug located on the oil pan, using standard ramps so that the front of the CX-5 is much higher is actually beneficial to drain the oil completely. I don’t bother to use floor jack and then jack stands just for changing oil, and this’s what I do with self-made 2X10’s:

6E984583-B03B-4D77-9C2A-9DC4CB7D13CA.jpeg



Anything else I should do?
It’d be appreciated if you can report the oil level before and after oil change (hot or cold as long as it’s consistent although I prefer cold). And the actual oil quantity you used. Honestly I believe you need more than one 5-quart jug (5.5 quarts?) for oil change on your 2.5T.
 
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Yes it may be confusing but 9956-41-400 is the part number for one aluminum washer, as there’s no such thing with a Mazda part number which is for a package of 5 washers. You can compare the price as mentioned above and figure it out the price for one from partsouq.com is already amazingly low comparing to the US price. What I’m trying to say is partsouq.com did nothing wrong giving you 7 washers. You can get more washers from Amazon or eBay, either OEM (very expensive), or aftermarket (cheaper) aluminum washers.

View attachment 306875

View attachment 306874



The way the drain plug located on the oil pan, using standard ramps so that the front of the CX-5 is much higher is actually beneficial to drain the oil completely. I don’t bother to use floor jack and then jack stands just for changing oil, and this’s what I do with self-made 2X10’s:

View attachment 306876



It’d be appreciated if you can report the oil level before and after oil change (hot or cold as long as it’s consistent although I prefer cold). And the actual oil quantity you used. Honestly I believe you need more than one 5-quart jug (5.5 quarts?) for oil change on your 2.5T.
Ok on the gaskets. Oh yeah using ramps is good idea but eventually I will need to take off the wheel for rotation.

For oil change:
I will first read level from stick when cold.

Then warm up engine to normal temp then turn off and read level again.

Then drain and fill to cold level since fluid is cold. I have two jugs incase.

Thanks

Edit
Might do it on a different day instead since a little lazy today after working on my civic for the past day.
 
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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
⋯ Then drain and fill to cold level since fluid is cold.
This’s a bit tricker checking the oil level cold after the oil change. You have to start the engine running a bit after the refill making sure there’s no leaks around the oil filter and drain plug, mainly for filling up the oil into empty oil filter (even if you have filled some fresh oil before the installation). You can check the hot oil level 5 minutes after the engine shut-off, but for cold level I usually wait until the next morning.
 
Upvote 0
Yes it may be confusing but 9956-41-400 is the part number for one aluminum washer, as there’s no such thing with a Mazda part number which is for a package of 5 washers. You can compare the price as mentioned above and figure it out the price for one from partsouq.com is already amazingly low comparing to the US price. What I’m trying to say is partsouq.com did nothing wrong giving you 7 washers. You can get more washers from Amazon or eBay, either OEM (very expensive), or aftermarket (cheaper) aluminum washers.

View attachment 306875

View attachment 306874



The way the drain plug located on the oil pan, using standard ramps so that the front of the CX-5 is much higher is actually beneficial to drain the oil completely. I don’t bother to use floor jack and then jack stands just for changing oil, and this’s what I do with self-made 2X10’s:

View attachment 306876



It’d be appreciated if you can report the oil level before and after oil change (hot or cold as long as it’s consistent although I prefer cold). And the actual oil quantity you used. Honestly I believe you need more than one 5-quart jug (5.5 quarts?) for oil change on your 2.5T.
Just doing the oil change now, but the oil drain washer seems to be part of the plug? It has black spray paint covering the plug AND washer!

edit
so should I just put a new one on top of the old one thats attached to plug?
edit2
nvm I used a plier and it came off easily and it became oval as these seem soft when I applied pressure with plier lol.
 
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NEVER use 2 washers!
While I am under the car I am spraying all rubber compenents with 303 spray and trying to see if the auto tensioner is not leaking. Btw is there a way to read the auto tension to see if its out of spec? My 05 Titan and 08 Civic has marks that can be read.
 
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For the oil change I jacked up the front dimpled area but honestly could have just done it w/o jacking it up since its an awd with a higher ground clearance. I turned the filter 3/4 of a turn instead of one full turn since it was very tight already with my bare hands. The oil is amount is 5 quarts.

For tire rotation, I used a hydraulic jack w/round rubber puck on the jacking point that is located inwards (felt padding) of the fin for front and scissor jack for the rear. I used the hydraulic jack on this jacking point because this is the jacking point for the scissor jack (not the outward area of the fin). Underneath the felt is good solid jacking point for the front (last three photos). The rear though is alot narrower so I only used a scissor jack. I also had jack stands for the front (dimples) and rear differential.

The tires were rotated front to back this time, then next time the rear swap with each other and fronts swap with each other and repeat.

I probably could just use the hydraulic jack and keep jacking it higher so it can lift the rear w/o the scissor jack.
 

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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Just doing the oil change now, but the oil drain washer seems to be part of the plug? It has black spray paint covering the plug AND washer!

edit
so should I just put a new one on top of the old one thats attached to plug?
edit2
nvm I used a plier and it came off easily and it became oval as these seem soft when I applied pressure with plier lol.
The factory painted the oil pan with drain plug installed, that’s why there’s black paint on drain plug and aluminum washer. Many have been having the same problem like you, very difficult to separate the factory aluminum washer from drain plug. Some even thought there’s no washer as the black paint masked the washer existence.

Like tomcat1446, I used a razor blade to separate the factory aluminum washer.


just did my first oil change, and agreed with other CX-5 owners : the easiest oil job ever.
one question, did anyone do this without ramps ? I tried but there wasn't enough space for me....

only hiccup was I had a very hard time getting the old aluminum crush washer off the drain plug flange, it was really stuck on there, I had to use an xacto knife blade to separate the old crush washer from the drain plug.

note: I can easily see for any first timer to think that there is no crush washer or if they lost the crush washer when it's actually there stuck on the plug flange, I thought the same thing it looked like one piece and the crush washer was missing, but when I compared the new crush washer supplied by Med center Mazda versus the drain plug, I can clearly see the crush washer stuck on there. I used a miniature flat blade screwdriver but that didn't work so I used an Xacto knife to get that damn thing off. I hope no one doubled up on the crush washers thinking the original crush washer was part of the drain plug.

for those interested, here are the p/n's off the packing list:
oil filter : PE01-14-302A
crush washer: 9956-41-400
 
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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
The oil is amount is 5 quarts.
Any chance to check the oil level before and after?

Based on many DIY reports here, 5 quarts is not enough for the 2.5T to make the oil level to the Max mark unless you didn’t drain the oil completely:
 
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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
⋯ For tire rotation, I used a hydraulic jack w/round rubber puck on the jacking point that is located inwards (felt padding) of the fin for front and scissor jack for the rear. I used the hydraulic jack on this jacking point because this is the jacking point for the scissor jack (not the outward area of the fin). Underneath the felt is good solid jacking point for the front (last three photos). The rear though is alot narrower so I only used a scissor jack. I also had jack stands for the front (dimples) and rear differential.
For tire rotation, I use a floor jack to lift the side at the cut-off area of the side rail designed for lifting and rotate the tire one-by-one with the spare been put on for the first tire removed (usually started at RR). I use a piece of 2X4 for padding, although I should get a thick rubber pad. Of course now I won’t do the tire rotation by myself on the CX-5 as I’d purchased a set of new tires from Discount Tire, and they’lol rotate the tire for me. The only thing I need to do is re-torque the lug nuts with my torque wrench afterwards.

The tires were rotated front to back this time, then next time the rear swap with each other and fronts swap with each other and repeat.
I use tire rotation pattern recommended by Mazda.

886EBB12-F9F1-44F9-82AE-86B0A1E2DF5D.jpeg
 
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:
2014 mazda cx-5 touring FWD
For tire rotation, I use a floor jack to lift the side at the cut-off area of the side rail designed for lifting and rotate the tire one-by-one with the spare been put on for the first tire removed (usually started at RR). I use a piece of 2X4 for padding, although I should get a thick rubber pad. Of course now I won’t do the tire rotation by myself on the CX-5 as I’d purchased a set of new tires from Discount Tire, and they’lol rotate the tire for me. The only thing I need to do is re-torque the lug nuts with my torque wrench afterwards.


I use tire rotation pattern recommended by Mazda.

View attachment 307058
Regarding the cross rotation of tires, I hope you have better luck than what I had. For years I rotated front to back and back to front on the same side. On my last car (Buick Regal) I tried GM's recommended cross rotation. On 2 sets of tires the tread experienced "heel and toe wear" which resulted in a 'saw blade' effect, like the teeth on a circular saw blade. And they got noisier. Also some feathering across the tread, side to side. Went back to the F--B and B--F ,same side, and no more problem. If having rotation done somewhere I always specify no cross rotation. As always, YMMV.
 
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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Regarding the cross rotation of tires, I hope you have better luck than what I had. For years I rotated front to back and back to front on the same side. On my last car (Buick Regal) I tried GM's recommended cross rotation. On 2 sets of tires the tread experienced "heel and toe wear" which resulted in a 'saw blade' effect, like the teeth on a circular saw blade. And they got noisier. Also some feathering across the tread, side to side. Went back to the F--B and B--F ,same side, and no more problem. If having rotation done somewhere I always specify no cross rotation. As always, YMMV.
I have never had any issues doing cross rotation according to manufacture’s recommendation. My stock Toyo A23’s lasted 44,032 miles without much irregular wear issues with cross rotation once every 5K ~ 7.5K miles.

Radar Dimax AS-8 225/55R19 103V Tires Finally Installed

The recommended tire rotation of my 2000 BMW 528i is no tire rotation. The rear tires will wear inside tread pretty fast due to severe negative camber setup.
 
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:
2017 Mazda 6 Sport
Regarding the cross rotation of tires, I hope you have better luck than what I had. For years I rotated front to back and back to front on the same side. On my last car (Buick Regal) I tried GM's recommended cross rotation. On 2 sets of tires the tread experienced "heel and toe wear" which resulted in a 'saw blade' effect, like the teeth on a circular saw blade. And they got noisier. Also some feathering across the tread, side to side. Went back to the F--B and B--F ,same side, and no more problem. If having rotation done somewhere I always specify no cross rotation. As always, YMMV.
Sounds like there was an underlying alignment issue
 
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