2010 Mazda 3 Engine

[GTXT23]

Well huppman --as some time has expired and the new 2011's are out and sales are brisk .....guess what MAZDA does ......they put 0-W20 in ALL the new Mazda3 engines !!! SO I call Mazda AGAIN as a rep of of the company I want ANSWERS . CLEAR ANSWERS - So I get on the horn with "Carlos" and he says the same pablom we cannot guarantee that if you use an oil NOT reccomended in the 2010 owners manual that the engine warranty will be intact . I then explain that the 2011 is the IDENTICAL car and now uses 0-W20 synthetic ??? and agreed to check into it and said he would call back in 3 days ???? 10 minutes later he calls ...Hey guess what / I have MAZDA OFFICIAL MEMO on 0- W20 oil amd MAZDA3's it says " ALL MAZDA 3's now use 0-W20 customers can be told the reason is " IT Lubricates better , lasts longer under extreme conditions , lubricates faster upon start-up and is generall higher quality " - I said great !!! so I can use it ? --He says " No I cannot reccomend you use different oil that the owners manual reccomends , but it is better oil and would be better for your car " ???? What the F???

 

[ToNeZ90]

Well huppman --as some time has expired and the new 2011's are out and sales are brisk .....guess what MAZDA does ......they put 0-W20 in ALL the new Mazda3 engines !!! SO I call Mazda AGAIN as a rep of of the company I want ANSWERS . CLEAR ANSWERS - So I get on the horn with "Carlos" and he says the same pablom we cannot guarantee that if you use an oil NOT reccomended in the 2010 owners manual that the engine warranty will be intact . I then explain that the 2011 is the IDENTICAL car and now uses 0-W20 synthetic ??? and agreed to check into it and said he would call back in 3 days ???? 10 minutes later he calls ...Hey guess what / I have MAZDA OFFICIAL MEMO on 0- W20 oil amd MAZDA3's it says " ALL MAZDA 3's now use 0-W20 customers can be told the reason is " IT Lubricates better , lasts longer under extreme conditions , lubricates faster upon start-up and is generall higher quality " - I said great !!! so I can use it ? --He says " No I cannot reccomend you use different oil that the owners manual reccomends , but it is better oil and would be better for your car " ???? What the F???

LMAO! somehow that doesnt surprise me. how are they gonna prove that you use it anyways.

 

[GTXT23]

Well if the techs in the shop do my oil changes , which they do since I am an employee , they would be commiting a fraud if they were to not mention that I A. customer provided own oil 0-W20 or B. if they provided the oil they would be required to do the same . I may just bring my own and somehow have that omission made ..it's ridiculous . In fact if you check with MOST Mazda dealers they havent even been provided with the 0-W20 oil for the 2's and the 3's and suspect also the new 5's due soon --opps forgot also the MX-5 now get it too.

 

[cclngthr]

That's what I thought too, but I recently took apart a 4-cylinder 2.3 L Ford Fusion engine and it looked exactly the same as the 2008 2.0L Mazda 3 engine. I have some pictures of the Ford engine. Maybe you might see a difference.

I also have pictures of the piston taken out for those wondering what there pistons looks like. hahah

The exterior of the engines are the same, but the oil journals are in a different location. I am working on a 04 MZ3 and have the engine out and had the 2.3 liter engine side by side with the 2.0 liter.

 

[GTXT23]

I found this to be the MOST accurate and informative info I could glean , in fact even the techs were dead WRONG about synthetics and what they do - One guy said oh its just "thinner" when runnning which is the most common misconception, - the main difference is that at 75degrees F. an non synthetic 5W-20 has a viscosity of approx. 100 and a synthetic 5W-20 has a viscosity at 75 F. of 40-50 , translated the non-syn is thicker upon start-up but when they reach the operating temp of 212-Degrees F. they both run at a viscosity of 10- , now the big difference dino oils have V1 and V11 additives to keep this correct vis. and they eventually wear away causing thicher oil at op temp and start-up , also dino oils tend to thicken upon shutdown after running at temp and upon restart at temp they cause more wear just like at cold start up which is 90% of engine wear .....cold start-up. Therfore having the oil that is closest to a 10 Vis at start-up gives you the lowest wear as oposed to an oil with a higer Vis as start-up . Once running its a even game - I found this interesting since I just switched My Dino 5W-20 to a full SYN 5W-20 for my 2010 Mazda3 2.5 and the Dino is 100 at start and the Syn is 40 ( mobil ) and they both run at approx 10 when at 212F. Also the Syn will last longer as the molecules NEVER break down and they have NO V1 or V11 additives to stabilize the viscosity ...so now its clear why Mazda is going with a 0W-20 Full Syn because of everything stated above the 0W's are pretty close to the 5W's and have a cold start vis at 75degrees F of about 40-50 also .= If anybody wants the source for this info let me know I will link you up .

 

[cclngthr]

I found this to be the MOST accurate and informative info I could glean , in fact even the techs were dead WRONG about synthetics and what they do - One guy said oh its just "thinner" when runnning which is the most common misconception, - the main difference is that at 75degrees F. an non synthetic 5W-20 has a viscosity of approx. 100 and a synthetic 5W-20 has a viscosity at 75 F. of 40-50 , translated the non-syn is thicker upon start-up but when they reach the operating temp of 212-Degrees F. they both run at a viscosity of 10- , now the big difference dino oils have V1 and V11 additives to keep this correct vis. and they eventually wear away causing thicher oil at op temp and start-up , also dino oils tend to thicken upon shutdown after running at temp and upon restart at temp they cause more wear just like at cold start up which is 90% of engine wear .....cold start-up. Therfore having the oil that is closest to a 10 Vis at start-up gives you the lowest wear as oposed to an oil with a higer Vis as start-up . Once running its a even game - I found this interesting since I just switched My Dino 5W-20 to a full SYN 5W-20 for my 2010 Mazda3 2.5 and the Dino is 100 at start and the Syn is 40 ( mobil ) and they both run at approx 10 when at 212F. Also the Syn will last longer as the molecules NEVER break down and they have NO V1 or V11 additives to stabilize the viscosity ...so now its clear why Mazda is going with a 0W-20 Full Syn because of everything stated above the 0W's are pretty close to the 5W's and have a cold start vis at 75degrees F of about 40-50 also .= If anybody wants the source for this info let me know I will link you up .

Synthetic oil will break down, but not as fast. People think they can go longer with synthetic oils between changes, but they can't go much longer than dino oil, especially if the car is hard on oils.

This applies to the transmission as well as engines. I run Mobile 1 synthetic ATF because the car is hard on transmissions, not only because of the power, but also heat buildup.

 

[GTXT23]

Source- bobistheoilguy.com ..............Synthetic oils are a whole different story. There is no VI improver added so there is nothing to wear out. The actual oil molecules never wear out. You could almost use the same oil forever. The problem is that there are other additives and they do get used up. I suppose if there was a good way to keep oil clean you could just add a can of additives every 6 months and just change the filter, never changing the oil.

When the additives wear out in a synthetic oil it still has the same viscosity. It will not thin as a mineral oil. The fear that some say Porsche has that oils thin when the VII runs out is not applicable to these synthetic oils. These oils will always have the correct thickness when hot and will still be too thick at startup as with all oils of all types, regardless of the API / SAE viscosity rating.

 

[cclngthr]

Source- bobistheoilguy.com ..............Synthetic oils are a whole different story. There is no VI improver added so there is nothing to wear out. The actual oil molecules never wear out. You could almost use the same oil forever. The problem is that there are other additives and they do get used up. I suppose if there was a good way to keep oil clean you could just add a can of additives every 6 months and just change the filter, never changing the oil.

When the additives wear out in a synthetic oil it still has the same viscosity. It will not thin as a mineral oil. The fear that some say Porsche has that oils thin when the VII runs out is not applicable to these synthetic oils. These oils will always have the correct thickness when hot and will still be too thick at startup as with all oils of all types, regardless of the API / SAE viscosity rating.

I don't go by BobTheOilGuy. I go by actual testing of used oil. Oil can become contaminated and the molecules will be altered by the contamination, whether it is debris, fuel or other types of contamination. If you have any fuel or carbon anywhere in the oil, and it will be there from normal use, the oil will be contaminated.

 

[GTXT23]

Yeah , I do find it a difficult statment to digest as a full truth ,, and by no means am I going to test it out on my ride ---read what testing the guy does , it in general seems like a decant source with good blogs to back things up --
heres the correct link .......http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/

 

[GTXT23]

Guy rolled in here yesterday with a base model 1999 Protege' and it had 100,000 miles on it . Ran like brand new . seriously . It was spot on perfect in every way even the paint was good - He wanted to trade it in on a Sube and I couldn't say anything but with a car lke that you could never replace it for what you will get on a trade ..possibly even a private sale --It easily has another 100K left of trouble free driving and what the high book ...guessing 2500$ heck thats a rebuilt transmission , not a FULL ON CAR that is in running order with NU tires . Given we are also in the highest resale market nationwide --the Bay Area California

 

[cclngthr]

Guy rolled in here yesterday with a base model 1999 Protege' and it had 100,000 miles on it . Ran like brand new . seriously . It was spot on perfect in every way even the paint was good - He wanted to trade it in on a Sube and I couldn't say anything but with a car lke that you could never replace it for what you will get on a trade ..possibly even a private sale --It easily has another 100K left of trouble free driving and what the high book ...guessing 2500$ heck thats a rebuilt transmission , not a FULL ON CAR that is in running order with NU tires . Given we are also in the highest resale market nationwide --the Bay Area California

A 99 with 100K miles? That is VERY LOW miles for the year. Looks like he maintained it well.