10 psi on almost stock MSP question

[MSP608]

helps prevent detonation and is supposed to help the car run a tiny bit safer when your boost higher then stock..

thanks......no offense matrix but i hate scrollin thru big threads like that. i mean people say search, but its alot easier to just ask a question get a few opinions then do whatever instead of spending a ton of time lookin thru threads that date back to when people were getting the first msp's.

 

[txrxs]

Well I guess Im going to be a guinea pig, as far as my mods are concerned.

You're not going to be a guinea pig. The car has been out for almost 4 years now. Pretty much every combo has been tried and to the same resolve. Your car will at one point or another blow a motor. Invest in ems, a fmic and free up your exhaust. Even with those mods the car is still sort of a ticking time bomb anyway. But it's up to you in the end.

 

[ChopstickHero]

i have been running fine with 9-10psi daily, Turbohoses SMIC, hardpipes, Injen, Unichip EMS and NGK PZFR7F-11 plugs on a stock exhaust for the past 10 months.

i think if you really want to run higher boost, get the supporting mods first. then crank your boost. not the opposite.

 

[Matrix]

i have been running fine with 9-10psi daily, Turbohoses SMIC, hardpipes, Injen, Unichip EMS and NGK PZFR7F-11 plugs on a stock exhaust for the past 10 months.

Holy crap. I highly recommend that you get a downpipe. The difference with your mods will be like night and day.

 

[Notorious_V.I.C]

i have been running fine with 9-10psi daily, Turbohoses SMIC, hardpipes, Injen, Unichip EMS and NGK PZFR7F-11 plugs on a stock exhaust for the past 10 months.

i think if you really want to run higher boost, get the supporting mods first. then crank your boost. not the opposite.

please do!! Thats the first i have heard man stock exhaust still! Get the full GHL Dp, there is an oprion were you can slap that baby right up to the stock cat-back portion..

 

[PeglegMSP]

Ok--I'm thinking...

Ok Guys,

Two issues have caught my attention.
1. Detonation- I don't hear it, could I still have it? I run 93 octane fuel. I'm going to insert some photos of my stock plugs after a recent drive. Give me some input.

2. The 10 psi and breaking rods thing. I thought 10 psi was safe from what I was reading on the forum. Humm maybe not.

So I'm thinking, why not open up the engine, change the rods to some good ones from **********, Hone the cylinder walls, put new stock rings on the stock pistons and crank up the boost? Any input????

 

[FlyinMSP]

It's hard to tell without a magnifying glass. Look carefully for tiny specks on the white porcelain. If you have specks, then you're detonating a bit (unless your rings are shot, but that's very unlikely). If you have the cash to forge the motor it's great, that will help a lot!! But if your goal is to boost at 10 psi safely, before forging, invest your $$ to get a better intercooler and a good exhaust, maybe a fuel management unit or piggyback and I'm quite confident that you'll be fine just like that, as many people on this board have that kind of setup without problems. The main concern is heat in the cylinders. As a matter of fact, a water injection system could do the trick even if everything is left stock.

PS: when I have the time, I'll check the calcs I've done because if I remember correcly a 93-94 octane gas, with the efficiency of our stock setup, was good to around 9 psi. But I'm not sure, I have to check...

 

[210_ZOOM]

It's hard to tell without a magnifying glass. Look carefully for tiny specks on the white porcelain. If you have specks, then you're detonating a bit (unless your rings are shot, but that's very unlikely). If you have the cash to forge the motor it's great, that will help a lot!! But if your goal is to boost at 10 psi safely, before forging, invest your $$ to get a better intercooler and a good exhaust, maybe a fuel management unit or piggyback and I'm quite confident that you'll be fine just like that, as many people on this board have that kind of setup without problems. The main concern is heat in the cylinders. As a matter of fact, a water injection system could do the trick even if everything is left stock.

PS: when I have the time, I'll check the calcs I've done because if I remember correcly a 93-94 octane gas, with the efficiency of our stock setup, was good to around 9 psi. But I'm not sure, I have to check...

so what would a 91oct be good for?

 

[FlyinMSP]

so what would a 91oct be good for?

Stock boost (6 psi)

 

[Slowp0ke]

what about 110 octane hehe

 

[athos45]

with a CAI youll laugh for a week after unleashing the turkey. the 'turkey' is compressor surge which is air being forced back into the turbo everytime you let off the gas. its really bad for your turbo too. think about it like this, your turbine (exhaust side) is spinning one way and the compressor spins with it. when you hear the turkey that means air is pushing on the compressor the opposite direction that it wants to go.....sorry, had to say that since most people on here dont truely know what compressor surge is. and if you dont believe me, take the vacuum line off your stock bpv, plug it with a bolt then rev your engine up. youll hear the turkey just a little more than usually but its the same thing.

yup i hear this when i let up the gas and this sound can be eliminated by stepping very lightly on it again.... so is this normal or is this bad? pls enlighten us

 

[Bakum]

Is there anyway to remove the "turkey" at all? I know most people run a Dual BPV/BOV setup, but does that fix the problem?

 

[mspHtown]

Is there anyway to remove the "turkey" at all? I know most people run a Dual BPV/BOV setup, but does that fix the problem?

the dual setup fixed mine

 

[MSP608]

Is there anyway to remove the "turkey" at all? I know most people run a Dual BPV/BOV setup, but does that fix the problem?

yea the dual setup gets rid of the turkey but doesnt prevent all stalling like they say, well atleast not in my case. like when im backing up and i rev kinda then put the clutch in the rpms drop fast and it almost dies. basically you just cant rev hard then put the clutch in, gotta keep small revs but ive gotten used to it it doesnt happen anymore.

but in response to athos45, yes compressor surge is bad over a long period of time. it clearly cant be end of the world bad since msp's have compressor surge out of the box you just cant hear it because of the stock intake. when you put an aftermarket intake on with all the alunminum piping it basically acts like a microphone to the air thats going back into the turbo.

edit: im not absolutely positively 100% sure about everything i said, but real close. so correct me if im wrong. but no compressor surge definitely is not sound from the bpv recirculating, thats not right at all.

 

[jeffmsp]

just get the car on a dyno or hookup a wideband so you know you are not leaning out. If you could get some EGT readings too that would help. I ran my car like that for close to a year with no problems but i used 94 octane and my car is unflashed. If yours is flashed step back until you have some management. Make sure both your cats are gone or step up to some bigger exhaust piping. I would not be too worried about the rods if you are running ok and dont put excessive load on the motor.(boosting high in 5th when you should have downshifted etc) Are you running 10psi at redline or does it taper off?

 

[Unispeed]

Ok man, here is your best first mod. Get some 70 durometer AWR motor mounts. Both front and rear. Vibration will increase a little but they are well worth it. If you dont get mounts, and you play with your car (no, not in that way!) you will end up with problems with your exhast system. One very common thing on stock mount proteges is the manifolds bolts backing out. This causes an exhaust leak in the worst place it coud accour at. Because some of the exhaust exits the manifold before it gets to the primary O2 sensor, it does not get metered and as a result the ecu will think that the car is running lean, when in reality it is running pig rich. Tighten those manifold bolts down (but not too much, the head is alluminum) and make sure they stay tight by investing in some 70 durometer mounts. Also, redo all the vacum lines, expecially the one going to the wastegate (yellow thing close to the turbo) it gets brittle and cracks and creates a vacum leak, at least change the ones that feel like pvc...

I'm running 10 psi with a K&N drop-in air filter and a gutted cat. It seems to run fine.

I was wondering if any of you guys have any input into this setup as far as potential problems that I might encounter.

P.S. I'm new at this forum and don't know all the acronyms, so please go easy on the acronyms And I'm old enough to be your Daddy! But like Japanese cars.

 

[msp2fast]

Ok i got 95Duro awr motormouts how much different are they from the 70Duro?

 

[msp2fast]

Anybody?!?!

 

[MSP608]

theyre much stiffer and not neccisary unless you have like 300 hp

 

[PeglegMSP]

Reply

just get the car on a dyno or hookup a wideband so you know you are not leaning out. If you could get some EGT readings too that would help. I ran my car like that for close to a year with no problems but i used 94 octane and my car is unflashed. If yours is flashed step back until you have some management. Make sure both your cats are gone or step up to some bigger exhaust piping. I would not be too worried about the rods if you are running ok and dont put excessive load on the motor.(boosting high in 5th when you should have downshifted etc) Are you running 10psi at redline or does it taper off?

To answer, I don't run it real hard alot, some sure but it's not what I would call alot, as in my younger years when I drove everywhere like a race. I do have an EGT mounted beween the two gutted cats and I run 800 normal and 1100 hard. How do these temps compare to yours?