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- 2016.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech
Am still reading this over at Reddit. This was posted about 40 min ago: Reddit - Dive into anything
You might find it helpful.
You might find it helpful.
Interesting read on the CX-5
- Thread starter SBMongoos
- Start date
Mostly agree with but this part is in error
2016.5 and 2017 are the latest models with "tank reliability". This is due to the fact they don't have cylinder deactivation or i-stop, and no LED headlights\taillights
2016.5 and 2017 are the latest models with "tank reliability". This is due to the fact they don't have cylinder deactivation or i-stop, and no LED headlights\taillights
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
My 2016.5 GT doesn't have LED headlights or taillights, or the other 'features' that you mentioned either of course.
My mistake... I didn't realize the GT needed the Tech package for the LED headlights and taillights
All of my vehicles (Mazda/Lexus/Infiniti) have stock AFS HIDs. I'm surprised the 17 year old active headlights still work fine on my Infiniti but they do.
2016.5 product changes
All of my vehicles (Mazda/Lexus/Infiniti) have stock AFS HIDs. I'm surprised the 17 year old active headlights still work fine on my Infiniti but they do.
2016.5 product changes
I think I was thinking about those problematic LED DRL lights.
I found these comments of his interesting:
"How to maintain my CX-5 so it'll last?" Transmission+differential+transfer case fluid every 50K miles (remember, there is no such thing as "lifetime fluid", manufacturer says there is just because of EPA and CAFE standards, so they could show that maintaining the vehicle requires less crude oil products... For them, "lifetime" means the lifetime of the warranty period), coolant flush every 5 years, brake fluid every 5-10 years, oil change every 5K miles at most (with none-turbo) and 3K with turbos (unless you want your engine to start burning oil early), spark plugs every 60K miles (none-turbo) and 35K turbo at most, to keep your coils healthy. Replace your engine air filter and cabin filter every year, regardless... Your MAF sensor and blower fan will thank you for it, and the better mileage you'll get from a new engine filter will pay for itself (if you'll do it by yourself, which is a 3 minute job)... Do the cabin filter yourselves too. Both air and cabin filters you can go aftermarket, because you replace them frequently. Don't get high flow filters, or filters that are too restrictive.
Edit: apparently people are not happy with the shorter explanation version of why CDA is bad (for all manufacturers), so here's the long one: Thermodynamics. When you turn off two cylinders and the two others are firing, it means two cylinders are running colder than the other two. All cylinders share the same block and cylinder head. When some parts of the cylinder head are colder than other parts, the rate of expansion and contraction is different between areas of the same block of metal. Those stresses, in turn, can lead to either micro fractures in the head (cracked cylinder head eventually), or out of round of the bores (oil consumption eventually). This isn't just a Mazda problem, it's a problem with other manufacturers as well. Search "Chevrolet cylinder deactivation issues", or "Honda VCM issues" and see. Same issues across the board.
"How to maintain my CX-5 so it'll last?" Transmission+differential+transfer case fluid every 50K miles (remember, there is no such thing as "lifetime fluid", manufacturer says there is just because of EPA and CAFE standards, so they could show that maintaining the vehicle requires less crude oil products... For them, "lifetime" means the lifetime of the warranty period), coolant flush every 5 years, brake fluid every 5-10 years, oil change every 5K miles at most (with none-turbo) and 3K with turbos (unless you want your engine to start burning oil early), spark plugs every 60K miles (none-turbo) and 35K turbo at most, to keep your coils healthy. Replace your engine air filter and cabin filter every year, regardless... Your MAF sensor and blower fan will thank you for it, and the better mileage you'll get from a new engine filter will pay for itself (if you'll do it by yourself, which is a 3 minute job)... Do the cabin filter yourselves too. Both air and cabin filters you can go aftermarket, because you replace them frequently. Don't get high flow filters, or filters that are too restrictive.
Edit: apparently people are not happy with the shorter explanation version of why CDA is bad (for all manufacturers), so here's the long one: Thermodynamics. When you turn off two cylinders and the two others are firing, it means two cylinders are running colder than the other two. All cylinders share the same block and cylinder head. When some parts of the cylinder head are colder than other parts, the rate of expansion and contraction is different between areas of the same block of metal. Those stresses, in turn, can lead to either micro fractures in the head (cracked cylinder head eventually), or out of round of the bores (oil consumption eventually). This isn't just a Mazda problem, it's a problem with other manufacturers as well. Search "Chevrolet cylinder deactivation issues", or "Honda VCM issues" and see. Same issues across the board.
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- 2024 CX5 Akera G25
Brake fluid can and should be checked for moisture content every couple of years, there are established standards for allowable content. Replace when moisture content is approaching the threshold.
Its a far better method than by time and 5-10 years is far too wide a range to be sensible.
Its a far better method than by time and 5-10 years is far too wide a range to be sensible.
Once I saw this video, about motor oil breaking in within the first 500 miles, I immediately checked my CX-5 and it was at 900miles. I quickly got on it and changed the oil. The color of the oil was dark, witch shocked me. Now I'm at 2,900 miles, and plan on doing another oil change at 3,000 miles. From there on I plan on changing it every 3,500 to 4,000 miles.
