MS3 AFR goin nuts, car runs like crap, check out my data log & help

[flyrevs]

Ok, here's the story..... 2 weeks ago my wife drops me off at the airport (car has been running fine) she drive home (35 miles) and the only thing she did was fill up with premium. The car sat for 2 weeks. I get home yesterday and take the car out , it is a bucking bronco at low rpm. So I figure bad gas, put dry gas in, check plugs (perfect), no cels, let it sit over night and try again today - same thing. Decided to do a log and wow the AFR is going nuts.
I stayed out of boost for obvious reasons.
Any ideas ? Bad O2 sensor?

-drained all the gas and put fresh in no change, no vac. leaks, no boost leaks, no cels & no pending cels,
-MAF voltage at idle is 1.2V which is normal. Just cleaned the maf with maf cleaner to make sure it wasn't a dirty maf issue. maf voltages when running a fixed speed in vacuum (where log was taken) are pretty stable.
-posted log is closed loop the whole time
-reset ecu - no change
-runs ok in boost, hits 19 psi and holds

 

[Sport6]

Ok, here's the story..... 2 weeks ago my wife drops me off at the airport (car has been running fine) she drive home (35 miles) and the only thing she did was fill up with premium. The car sat for 2 weeks. I get home yesterday and take the car out , it is a bucking bronco at low rpm. So I figure bad gas, put dry gas in, check plugs (perfect), no cels, let it sit over night and try again today - same thing. Decided to do a log and wow the AFR is going nuts.
I stayed out of boost for obvious reasons.
Any ideas ? Bad O2 sensor?

-drained all the gas and put fresh in no change, no vac. leaks, no boost leaks, no cels & no pending cels,
-MAF voltage at idle is 1.2V which is normal. Just cleaned the maf with maf cleaner to make sure it wasn't a dirty maf issue. maf voltages when running a fixed speed in vacuum (where log was taken) are pretty stable.
-posted log is closed loop the whole time
-reset ecu - no change
-runs ok in boost, hits 19 psi and holds

I would put load the stock map on and see how it runs, just to make sure its not the map.


Maybe try to "clean the plugs" the way mazda recommends, which is no-load racing off the engine. i.e. parked, and race the motor to about 3000 rpms for a minute or two. Some even say that it kicks in a cleaning cycle from the ecu of the cat, I am trying to find the post on that.

 

[flyrevs]

stock map back on, still getting bs afr in closed loop (varies like the graph shows)

 

[Bravnik]

I would check your MAF. Make sure it is 1. Plugged in fully and check wires for nicks. 2. Seated Properly in the housing. 3. Clean it with a MAF cleaner.

After that I would verify that your Turbo Inlet is firmly secured to the turbo. That clamp has a history of coming loose (Unless you replaced it with a T-Bolt).

I would check all clamps to the FMIC and make sure they are snug. Check the piping under the car to make sure there is no hole maybe punctured (not sure if you have your skid plate on or not).

Also, check to make sure the clamp that connects your MSCAI to the Turbo inlet is not rubbing the wires going to your ECU. There is a history of people putting the clamps on to where they rub against these wires thus cutting into them and causing all kinds of issues.

 

[flyrevs]

I would check your MAF. Make sure it is 1. Plugged in fully and check wires for nicks. 2. Seated Properly in the housing. 3. Clean it with a MAF cleaner.

After that I would verify that your Turbo Inlet is firmly secured to the turbo. That clamp has a history of coming loose (Unless you replaced it with a T-Bolt).

I would check all clamps to the FMIC and make sure they are snug. Check the piping under the car to make sure there is no hole maybe punctured (not sure if you have your skid plate on or not).

Also, check to make sure the clamp that connects your MSCAI to the Turbo inlet is not rubbing the wires going to your ECU. There is a history of people putting the clamps on to where they rub against these wires thus cutting into them and causing all kinds of issues.

Everything is tight, maf has been cleaned, no rubbing.

UPDATE: I forgot to mention, when I was draining the fuel out (using the feul return line with clear hose into a gas can) there was almost constant bubbles thru the line. I don't understand this as even with a full tank - there was still tons of bubbles. Maybe the bubbles getting into the CDFP are what's causing my problem ? Thoughts?

 

[flyrevs]

Idles fine, just a little lopey.
UPDATE: I forgot to mention, when I was draining the fuel out (using the fuel return line with clear hose into a gas can) there was almost constant bubbles thru the line. I don't understand this as even with a full tank - there was still tons of bubbles. Maybe the bubbles getting into the CDFP are what's causing my problem ? the bubbles were pumping almost the entire time, so I wonder how a submerged pump can have bubbles ?????

----
I'm really thinking it's the bubbles now - how can they NOT effect afr ? I mean the fuel pump is going to be pumping a mixture of bubbles and fuel - how consistent could that be ? But I don't understand how a submerged pump could get air. ???????
__________________
Thoughts?

 

[Bravnik]

Your MAF could be going out. If you have someone close with an MS3, swap your MAF with theirs and see if it improves.

Other than that I really have no further ideas.

Edit: Just saw the fuel pic. Now that is really weird looking and I agree that does not seem to be normal. Where could it be getting the air from? I could easily see that as your issue. But maybe it is normal /shrug

 

[Sport6]

I would see if you could get a clear hose on the feeding side of the fuel line and see if there is air bubbles in there as well. Might be a clogged fuel screen on the submerged pump? If its not there then I would just contribute it to the fact that its the excess fuel returning to the tank? /shrug


Edit: Just read that air in fuel lines could be caused by vibrations.. Still not sure if that would be the cause of your problem.

 

[flyrevs]

Took the car into the dealer, gave the tech a ride, he said it's either a vac leak or intake leak or O2.
After 10 min. - primary O2 sensor is bad. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They are over nighting the part should be done tomorrow ! Sweet.

 

[flyrevs]

wow, bill was $611 but was covered under warantee, only .5hr labor

car runs great now

 

[Bravnik]

Woot glad to hear it man! And now we know the symptoms of a bad O2.

 

[flyrevs]

after new O2 sensor:

afr is now normal! yea!

 

[Speed3Rookie]

damn...that biotch is pricey.

 

[flyrevs]

damn...that biotch is pricey.

yea what's up with that it's just an O2 sensor ?!!!!!! they should include a tube of ky at that price!

 

[matsuda]

yea what's up with that it's just an O2 sensor ?!!!!!! they should include a tube of ky at that price!

Wideband sensors tend to be rather pricey.

 

[focoms3]

Wow I hate my stealership... You got yours covered under warranty?? They said primary o2 sensor wasn't covered under warranty... likened them to spark plugs.