- :
- Das Pretzelwagon
Cranks fine. It sputtered on startup, but it does that often. Usually it suptters once and the fires up fine the second time.Captain KRM P5 said:
This is getting old.
Hiboost + cold = nothing
- Thread starter Pretzellogic
- Start date
This is getting old.
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
smell any gas?
- :
- Das Pretzelwagon
Yup. Getting backfires out the tailpipe. It's probably flooded again.
1) What can I do to get my car started, aside from tearing everything apart again.
2) What can I do to make sure this doesn't happen again.
3) Why the **** is this happening in the first place?
1) What can I do to get my car started, aside from tearing everything apart again.
2) What can I do to make sure this doesn't happen again.
3) Why the **** is this happening in the first place?
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
Pretzellogic said:
1) Hold the gas pedal down while cranking it. This will add air and get the car to eventually fire up. Do not pump the gas, floor it and hold it
2) What did you do the first time
3) If its haltech related then the problem is likely with the air temperature correction.
Do you have a wideband o2 gauge?
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
also are you using the F10 (dos) or the F10X (windows)?
- :
- Das Pretzelwagon
No, no wideband.Captain KRM P5 said:
The first time, I pulled the plugs, washed them, pulled the relays and the fuel fuse, cranked the bejesus out of it, reinstalled, and fired it up. Changed the oil, too. Keep in mind I'm doing this all in a parking lot, so I'd rather not if I don't have to.
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
Pretzellogic said:
don't take this the wrong way, but short of cleaning the plugs off none of that is going to help long term.
Here is the problem I encountered. I installed my Haltech back in October 04. The climate around then was at best 30 degrees and at night would drop to the 20s. The Haltech has a correction factor written to it to compensate for air temperature. You can adjust the percentage of that increase or decrease by using the Maps > Fuel - Air Correction option in HalWinX. The problem is that Juan has pretty much no way to tune for the types of weather we encounter because it just doesn't get that damn cold where he hails from. I found his air temp correction factors in need of adjustment. I am wagering that they are simply too rich and need to be scaled back. there is also a map for post-start enrichment on the Haltech but if the one he supplied you with is at all like the one he supplied me with i don't think thats your issue
i am going to take some sample screen shots and post them here to better illustrate what i mean
- :
- Das Pretzelwagon
Well, he sent me a corrected fuel map, but my car wouldn't start with it in. Have you sent your modified map to Juan? Perhaps he could send me a copy.Captain KRM P5 said:
- :
- Das Pretzelwagon
Holding the pedal to the floor will cut the fuel, right?
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
Pretzellogic said:
no it will open the throttle body and force air into the engine
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
Pretzellogic said:
i could send you a copy of mine but we have two totally different turbo kits and I am not sure mine will be of much help directly to you. Also, are you using the F10x or the older F10? I'd really like to see the maps you are using and maybe I can tweak them based off of what I have done with my own. I know its costly, but I really suggest you hook yourself with a UEGO wideband gauge
- :
- Das Pretzelwagon
Doh. Stupid me.Captain KRM P5 said:
How long, on avarage, will I have to crank before this thing starts?
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
Here is a pair of screen shots of the windows software. This is just a default map that Haltech includes with the software. As you can see on the graph, the haltech adds fuel by a percentage as the IAT reads colder. My guess is that Juan has made these corrections a little too liberal and it adds too much, runs too rich, etc etc
Attachments
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
Pretzellogic said:
last time i ever had to do it it was about 15 seconds. i would let the car sit for a half hour or so before giving it another go. if you can, email me your map KenRMiller@hotmail.com
- :
- Das Pretzelwagon
I don't have a laptop, so I can't email you my map.Captain KRM P5 said:
Tried getting the car statred by flooring it. No such luck. I guess I'll have to take it apart tomorrow.
Seriously, why the hell is this happening? Today was no colder than any other day.
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
Pretzellogic said:
before you rip into it, try it again the morning. didn't you have some kind of odd alarm issue as well?
I can't really give you any other advice without being able to see your maps. Sorry
There are multiple reasons a car will not cold start. It may actually be too lean and the only reason you are getting backfires and the like is because you are cranking and dumping gas that doesn't get ignited.. then when it finally does there isn't enough to keep it going. So you'll get a couple fires and then it will die out.
You REALLY need to get your hand on a laptop and work on tuning this. It's nearly impossible to reliably own a car with a standalone management system in it without a laptop. If you are using base maps or maps someone else tuned you'll always see issues like this. So it's important that you can do it yourself.
The only other thing I can think of is if you have an adjustable FPR and know what your current fuel pressure is try raising and lowering the pressure until you get it to work for you. That's about the only "option" you have to tune your fuel load at this point.
Another thing you can try is crank it over for just a couple seconds stop and then immediately crank it again. That will sometimes get it to fire as you need. Otherwise if you can have someone spray qwik start or the like into the throttle body as you crank it over you may be able to get it to kick in and start.
Hope that helps!
Steve
You REALLY need to get your hand on a laptop and work on tuning this. It's nearly impossible to reliably own a car with a standalone management system in it without a laptop. If you are using base maps or maps someone else tuned you'll always see issues like this. So it's important that you can do it yourself.
The only other thing I can think of is if you have an adjustable FPR and know what your current fuel pressure is try raising and lowering the pressure until you get it to work for you. That's about the only "option" you have to tune your fuel load at this point.
Another thing you can try is crank it over for just a couple seconds stop and then immediately crank it again. That will sometimes get it to fire as you need. Otherwise if you can have someone spray qwik start or the like into the throttle body as you crank it over you may be able to get it to kick in and start.
Hope that helps!
Steve
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
Pull the plugs and do the same thing as last time.
This usually happens when the car doesn't get hot enough in the last drive cycle. A good preventive measure is right before you shut the car off rev it to around 2k rpm, then shut the car off while still at 2krpm ( Pretty much the only thing you can do for a Rotary to let it start up the next time.)
The best idea is to get the fuel Map corrected.
This usually happens when the car doesn't get hot enough in the last drive cycle. A good preventive measure is right before you shut the car off rev it to around 2k rpm, then shut the car off while still at 2krpm ( Pretty much the only thing you can do for a Rotary to let it start up the next time.)
The best idea is to get the fuel Map corrected.
- :
- Das Pretzelwagon
Juan sent me a new ECU with a new fuel map, and the car wouldn't start at all, so I plugged the old one back in.BlkZoomZoom said:
I guess I'll have to get myself a laptop.
I pulled the plugs, and they reek of fuel. two of them even looked wet when I pulled them. Time to break out the brake cleaner.
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
When your up my way again bring the new unit. We'll see if we can get it running.
