CX-5 Service Recommendation

Interesting point is that, they think this is cheap enough to make a coupon on their Service Special page.... How many owners actually fall for it... Probably a lot.
 
Assuming that the air filter is actually bad, subtracting its price ($25) from the total cost gives you $65. Replacing the filter takes 5 minutes, so that's an hourly rate of $780!!
I was going to start a thread awhile back. The change your cabin filter in 10 seconds challenge.
 
Takes some of us 5 seconds to open the hood and support it. Another 5 seconds to unsnap the filter cover, 2 seconds to remove filter and inspect. 10 seconds to vacuum or wipe out the filter box. 5 seconds to un rap filter box and inspect the filter seals. 2 seconds to place in box while making sure the seals are in place. 2 seconds to put the cover on and snap in place and 3 seconds to wipe of finger prints and close the hood.
I can't see a good conscientious job preformed in 10 seconds but, that's just me. Ed
 
10 seconds? Really possible if you practice doing it.

Takes some of us 5 seconds to open the hood and support it. Another 5 seconds to unsnap the filter cover, 2 seconds to remove filter and inspect. 10 seconds to vacuum or wipe out the filter box. 5 seconds to un rap filter box and inspect the filter seals. 2 seconds to place in box while making sure the seals are in place. 2 seconds to put the cover on and snap in place and 3 seconds to wipe of finger prints and close the hood.
I can't see a good conscientious job preformed in 10 seconds but, that's just me. Ed
I was referring to the cabin filter. 10 seconds is doable. I've done it.
 
Hamilton Mazda NJ
Ugh, those guys are right around the corner from me. Haven’t needed service yet, hope I dont as I tend to diy. I avoided buying my cars there as they were pretty shady. Not disclosing or showing damage in pics, have heard other stories not so good about them. Used Faulkner in PA.

can I ask where you did take your car for service/inspection, maybe I’ll use them if I need to.

btw, many dealers push these high margin services and some are shady. I took my pilot in to a local Honda dealer and they told me my engine and air filters were dirty even though they were just replaced by me less than 7k miles ago. I checked them, clean as a whistle. They never even looked at them. You just have to cautious when a dealer recommends something. Follow the dashboard or service manual and you’ll be fine.

i also recall sitting next to a guy in an Acura dealer service area and the advisor was telling him he needed a new cabin air filter at a cost of $135!!! Guy saud ok to the service. I can install one in 9 seconds and at that time they were $8 on Amazon.
 
Takes some of us 5 seconds to open the hood and support it. Another 5 seconds to unsnap the filter cover, 2 seconds to remove filter and inspect. 10 seconds to vacuum or wipe out the filter box. 5 seconds to un rap filter box and inspect the filter seals. 2 seconds to place in box while making sure the seals are in place. 2 seconds to put the cover on and snap in place and 3 seconds to wipe of finger prints and close the hood.
I can't see a good conscientious job preformed in 10 seconds but, that's just me. Ed

That's because you're doing it wrong. The cabin filter isn't under the hood. ;)
 
Ugh, those guys are right around the corner from me. Haven’t needed service yet, hope I dont as I tend to diy. I avoided buying my cars there as they were pretty shady. Not disclosing or showing damage in pics, have heard other stories not so good about them. Used Faulkner in PA.

can I ask where you did take your car for service/inspection, maybe I’ll use them if I need to.

btw, many dealers push these high margin services and some are shady. I took my pilot in to a local Honda dealer and they told me my engine and air filters were dirty even though they were just replaced by me less than 7k miles ago. I checked them, clean as a whistle. They never even looked at them. You just have to cautious when a dealer recommends something. Follow the dashboard or service manual and you’ll be fine.

i also recall sitting next to a guy in an Acura dealer service area and the advisor was telling him he needed a new cabin air filter at a cost of $135!!! Guy saud ok to the service. I can install one in 9 seconds and at that time they were $8 on Amazon.
Hamilton Mazda is with in a mile from me, i tried them twice and both time i felt they have shady practices. I went to second opinion in local shops and they confirmed everything is fine. In Past i used Open road Mazda East Brunswick and can say they are still better. I am planning to use local shops going forward.
 
But, I'll admit, we never had the brake fluid changed in my wife's old 09 CX9 after ~12 years and 185k miles. And, I just had it done for the first time on my 100K+ mile 2014 Explorer.
I changed the brake fluid the first time after 20 years and 182K miles of the service on my 1998 Honda CR-V.

For some reason, many car manufactures including Mazda and Honda don’t recommend any brake fluid change in their maintenance schedule for US market, but they, Mazda and Honda, do recommend brake fluid change with 2-year interval in other regions.

Just use brake fluid tester and change the brake fluid when the moisture level is reaching 2%.

C5E4E3BF-0A6E-4604-8491-1B79C491D6C9.jpeg
 
I have Mazda CX5 2016.5 with 57k miles on it. In my recent visit Service Center Recommended bunch of services. I am looking for your suggestion and priority on it.


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Honestly, if I only want said Mazda dealer doing the maintenance for my 2016.5 CX-5 AWD at 57K miles, I may consider ATF change on transmission、gear lube change on front transfer case and rear differential、brake fluid change、and serpentine belt and water pump change with belt tensioner replacement (only if $278.48 includes belt tensioner replacement).

You can save at least 70% if you can DIY, and save 35% if you can find a reputable shop to do the work.
 
I changed the brake fluid the first time after 20 years and 182K miles of the service on my 1998 Honda CR-V.

For some reason, many car manufactures including Mazda and Honda don’t recommend any brake fluid change in their maintenance schedule for US market, but they, Mazda and Honda, do recommend brake fluid change with 2-year interval in other regions.

Just use brake fluid tester and change the brake fluid when the moisture level is reaching 2%.

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Is that the tester that you have a recommend? I need to get one of these.
 
Is that the tester that you have a recommend? I need to get one of these.
I ordered one exactly like that from AliExpress few years ago when the shipping from China was still pretty fast and reliable. There’re much more expensive ones on Amazon right now. But to me such tool really is only used for verification of moisture level in brake fluid, at the time I’m doing any kind of the brake job and have decided to change the brake fluid at the same time, no matter if the moisture level is below 2% or not. I won’t just change the brake fluid only if the tool says the moisture level is high.
 
Two parts of your car will save your life. Tires and brakes. Keep them in the best condition you can and replace them before they become worn out, incl the brake fluid. Oh, I guess the air bag can also save your life, but that costs a lot more to repair.
 
I have Mazda CX5 2016.5 with 57k miles on it. In my recent visit Service Center Recommended bunch of services. I am looking for your suggestion and priority on it.

First, follow the owner's manual, only. If the dealer argues, hand it to him and ask where it says to do it.
The prices are OUTRAGEOUS! 5X what ought to be.
My 2006 Miata has its original belt at 143k miles and passes the Gates wear test.
I DO change my diff and tranny lubes at 30k because I tow an RV and the manual recommends it.
There are a couple of fuel mileage threads describing intake valve cleaning, all under $40.
If you know how to use a baby wipe, you know how to clean your own throttle body.
The manual doesn't address brake fluid changes. I had the brake fluid changed in my Miata at 10 yrs/99k. There was no change in brake performance, but I felt better.
The rest of it, RTM.
 
Brake fluid anecdotes seem to be all over the map on the Interwebs. BWM recommends changing every 2 years. I do that on our 3 series, but tend to stick with 3-5 years on the other cars, depending on my mood. Whe I was tracking the Miata ("driver education" sessions, but still hard on the brakes,) I'd change fluid before and after those, and try to make sure it's within 2-3 years old if I'm gonna go mountain-road bombing. I did the CX-5 last year; bought used, I suspect that was its first time. I have a lift at home, and a Motive pressure bleeder, so it's not really a chore.

My first-hand experience with old brake fluid was this: Son bought a beater Honda Accord in high school. Drove and stopped just fine (seemingly) in regular school commuting. We signed the kids up for an accident avoidance course not long after he got the car. At the first Panic Stop exercise, he blew right past the cones. The brakes were maybe 15% functional in a hard stop. Had to use his sister's car the rest of the day. Got home and flushed the old brake fluid, the car regained full braking power even under repeated hard stops. What I learned is that old brake fluid can fool you into thinking it's just fine until it's not. YMMV.
 
That's the thing about old brake fluid. Can be hard to tell if it's taken up water or "changed" in some other way. I figure that brakes are what stops you, along with the tire contact patch. For me, skimping on either's a fool's errand and risking failure to stop when it matters most.

My own gauge: if it shows discolored or it's been 2-3yrs since the last change, flush/bleed. Better safe than sorry.

On my own 2016.5 CX-5, I've begun getting creaking and other similar noises in the steering, particularly noticeable during slow (ie, parking lot and trail) driving with large steering movements. At the next oil change, I'll have a look at all the steering and suspension bits, to see if anything's obviously amock. Approaching 100Kmi, I might well be re-doing the ball joints, tie rod ends and shocks, along with anything else clearly worn and needing refreshing. Again, IMO at least, better safe than sorry.
 
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