What have you done to your MSP today?

[Valk]

because i dont have an aftermarket exhaust pope. im not willing to pay to have the stock one modified in this town so ill just wait til i get a proper exhaust. not gonna be running more than stock boost on this car anyway.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Random question, every time it rains hard, the floor rug gets wet underneath my floor mats do you guys know why that can be happening? I don't think there's any holes in the metal frame underneath the floor rug.

It could be coming from the windshield seal or cowl area. Remove the wiper arms, cowl trim, and fender liner and there are drain holes that can get clogged and cause water to back up inside the car. There is also a how-to on leaks in which small holes were found in the cowl area that let water in. You can test it by spraying water into the cowl and watching under the dash from inside the car.

 

[Valk]

pretty productive morning, sorted out the last of the turbo lines and got the pan buttoned up. after lunch im gonna tackle the intercooler and change the valve cover =)

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

Helped my friend replace his rotors and brake pads on ins 91 Ford explorer 4x4

 

[IllaNoizeTV]

It could be coming from the windshield seal or cowl area. Remove the wiper arms, cowl trim, and fender liner and there are drain holes that can get clogged and cause water to back up inside the car. There is also a how-to on cowl are leaks in which small holes were found in the cowl area that leaked water in. You can test it by spraying water into the cowl and watching under the dash from inside the car.

Thank you!

 

[hornsfan10609]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-in-passenger-footwell-where-s-the-leak/page7
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123827490-firewall-cabin-water-leaks

 

[Valk]

everything all buttoned up. sure took a lot longer to put everything on by myself than i had thought it would. after dinner im gonna go swap the ecus and clean up, should be running soon.

 

[thepope540]

Does anyone know where I can find a spec sheet on the stock map sensor? I've done some digging and keep coming up empty handed.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

What do you need to know about the map?

 

[thepope540]

What do you need to know about the map?

I'd like to use it as an input for the unichip, but without knowing its pressure range and the corresponding voltages it would just be meaningless numbers. I can map it myself, but there has to be a data sheet out there.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I have the diagnostic disc here somewhere

 

[mica.msp]

You should post pics of the wagon and the engine bay since I don't think anyone on here has seen it.

He's got a build thread:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...cue!-making-a-clean-Daily-from-two-cars/page7

 

[Valk]

its all together. but running a little bit weird.. wants to stumble and die if left to idle too long. seems to hold rpms when you hold your foot on it. weird. ah well the test drive is coming. turbo has oil, has coolant, bypass bypasses. time to see if it blows up.

 

[mica.msp]

Random question, every time it rains hard, the floor rug gets wet underneath my floor mats do you guys know why that can be happening? I don't think there's any holes in the metal frame underneath the floor rug.

I had the same problem.

It could be coming from the windshield seal or cowl area. Remove the wiper arms, cowl trim, and fender liner and there are drain holes that can get clogged and cause water to back up inside the car. There is also a how-to on leaks in which small holes were found in the cowl area that let water in. You can test it by spraying water into the cowl and watching under the dash from inside the car.

Yeah take your fender liners out and clean out those drain holes. Pry them wider with a screwdriver too so it doesn't happen again. I also had cracked/dried out body seam sealer, and a missing rubber grommet in the engine bay.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

I found this it has a voltage chart for a 1 bar and 2 bar standard.
http://www.fastfieros.com/tech/map_sensors_and_how_they_work.htm
I am still looking at the manual but it is not indexed.

 

[IllaNoizeTV]

I had the same problem.



Yeah take your fender liners out and clean out those drain holes. Pry them wider with a screwdriver too so it doesn't happen again. I also had cracked/dried out body seam sealer, and a missing rubber grommet in the engine bay.

Thanks bro! It seems like our MSPs had a lot of the same problems. They were probably made around the same time.

 

[ZealoustheEnder]

EGR BOOST SENSOR INSPECTION [FS]
A3U014018211W01
Note
• Perform the following test only when directed.
• The following vacuum values are indicated by relative pressure from barometric pressure.
1. Remove the PCM. (See 01–40B–7 PCM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION [FS].)
2. Connect the SST (104 Pin Breakout Box) to the
PCM as shown.
3. Tighten the connector bolt.
Tightening torque
7.9—10.7 Nm
{80—110 kgfcm, 69.5—95.4 inlbf}
Caution
• Do not apply vacuum outside of the
specified limits, or the EGR boost sensor
will be damaged.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ON.
5. Disconnect the vacuum hose between the EGR
boost sensor and intake manifold.
Note
• The output voltage varies with the
measuring condition.
6. Verify that the PCM 34 terminal voltage is within
specification.
Measuring condition:
Input voltage: 4.5—5.5 V
Ambient temperature: 10—50 C {50—122
F}
Sea level: –20—3,000 m {–656—9,840 ft}
Specification
Measuring voltage: 2.3—4.7 V
7. Apply vacuum of –26.6 kPa {–200 mmHg, –7.85 inHg} to EGR boost sensor and verify that the PCM 34
terminal voltage variation from the specified voltage in Step 6 is within specification.
• If not as specified, carry out the “Circuit Open/Short Inspection”.
Specification
Monitoring voltage variation: 0.8—1.3 V
Z3U0140W024
X3U140WAX
X3U140WAY
CONTROL SYSTEM [FS]
01–40B–40
Circuit Open/Short Inspection
1. Remove the PCM. (See 01–40B–7 PCM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION [FS].)
2. Connect the SST (104 Pin Breakout Box) to the
PCM as shown.
3. Tighten the connector attaching screw.
Tightening torque
7.9—10.7 Nm
{80—110 kgfcm, 69.5—95.4 inlbf}
4. Inspect for an open or short circuit in the following
wiring harnesses by probing the applicable
sensor and SST (104 Pin Breakout Box) terminals
with ohmmeter leads.
• If there is an open or short circuit, repair or
replace wiring harnesses.
• If there is no open or short circuit, replace the EGR boost sensor.
Open circuit
• EGR boost (Barometric pressure) signal circuit (EGR boost sensor connector terminal A and PCM
connector terminal 34)
• Constant voltage circuit (EGR boost sensor connector terminal C and PCM connector terminal 90)
• GND circuit (EGR boost sensor connector terminal B and PCM connector terminal 91)
Short circuit
• EGR boost (Barometric pressure) signal
circuit (EGR boost sensor connector terminal
A and PCM connector terminal 34)
• Constant voltage circuit (EGR boost sensor
connector terminal C and PCM connector
terminal 90)
5. Reconnect the EGR boost sensor connector.
End Of Sie

 

[Alamo1]

Valk, why use the stock s pipe?

A cut down allen wrench is required to get the manifold on - there's no way around it.

Are the socket cap screws the only fastner that will work with your mani?

 

[Valk]

well, it had a few vac leaks that i corrected, due to the cruise mostly. its also leaking some oil on the bottom half either oil return or pan sealing. a little drip from the coolant feed on the backside of the block. otherwise.. holy hell boosted p5s are awesome. its perfectly civil until you mat it. im not sure if id say it builds boost faster than the msp, but its smoother. manifolds starting to go yellow so its aging in nicely.

 

[thepope540]

I found this it has a voltage chart for a 1 bar and 2 bar standard.
http://www.fastfieros.com/tech/map_sensors_and_how_they_work.htm
I am still looking at the manual but it is not indexed.

Thats the GM sensor which is a well known beast since its the one used by megasquirt, but with the service manual info showing up to 1.3 V for ~8 inHg our sensor could be a 2 bar which would return useful info up to about 14 psi. I'll probably end up mapping the sensor just to be sure.

Are the socket cap screws the only fastner that will work with your mani?

Yes and no, the socket cap is a must for the lower middle location, most of the rest you could use whatever you want.

well, it had a few vac leaks that i corrected, due to the cruise mostly. its also leaking some oil on the bottom half either oil return or pan sealing. a little drip from the coolant feed on the backside of the block. otherwise.. holy hell boosted p5s are awesome. its perfectly civil until you mat it. im not sure if id say it builds boost faster than the msp, but its smoother. manifolds starting to go yellow so its aging in nicely.

Sweet! The manifold really smooths things out, the downpipe and midpipe are where you get big returns in response.