I need to purchase a new WGA to replace my stocker. I want one that directly replaces it. I was looking on ATP's site and there are a bunch that are priced well. I have a Unichip set to 8psi. Can I get a WGA that is set to "6-7psi" and be alright? What I mean is, is that setting of 6-7psi the lowest the car will boost, and the EBC can increase to 8-9psi without blowing the diaphragm in the WGA?
Which WGA?
- Thread starter b_dues
- Start date
Which ATP did you buy? Link by chance?
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43975
Consider Forge.
I have it and love it.
Plus I can set my boost by just increasing or decreasing the tension on the inner spring and if I ever go over 10 PSI I can just swap out the spring for another spring.
I have it and love it.
Plus I can set my boost by just increasing or decreasing the tension on the inner spring and if I ever go over 10 PSI I can just swap out the spring for another spring.
ATP. Be aware though that you will be boosting anywhere from 7 to 9 psi with it though. Since you can't lower boost with an EBC/MBC, that will be your ''minimum'' boost. The Forge will allow you to set it at 5, for example, and then up the boost using a boost controller whenever you want.
KrayzieFox
Member
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- 01 MP3 Turbo
I haven't heard good things above Forge WGAs.
ATP shows 7 lbs steady. If you have a stock block, start with ATP and you can always go up from there. I have also heard bad things about Forge WGA, but to each his own. There are plenty of pple on here that have had great luck with Forge, that being said, look and do research and make sure that the mod you are doing is going to make since at the end of the day.
Yeah exactly, sounds like I will go with ATP. I have to make sure my stocker is done first though. I still have extremely annoying hesitation and I can't find the source. What else could cause hesitation at WOT other than leaky vac lines and hard pipes? PCV valve?
4
43975
Both have there down falls,
supposedly the ATP only last about 20K miles, Where the Forge has had a tendency to leak.
I thought I was having issues with my Forge leaking up until I found a small leak on one of my clamps. I tightened it down and haven't had issues yet.
supposedly the ATP only last about 20K miles, Where the Forge has had a tendency to leak.
I thought I was having issues with my Forge leaking up until I found a small leak on one of my clamps. I tightened it down and haven't had issues yet.
MazdaPro03.5
Member
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- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
The diaphragm on the forge wga is replaceable as well.
hesitation? sounds like a speed haha. the stock ecu dumps fuel which causes the hesitation, how long you had your speed? know if its gotten the reflash from mazda? (iv heard not to bother with it if you plan to mod, something about leaning out or advancing timing)
is the hesitation new? as for the stocker wga, if you blow into the vac line and air passes you know its toast, if its a brick wall it should be ok
...i think
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43975
If your hesitation feels more like you keep hitting a wall then chances are it's the WGA. But some people describe hesitation and it turns out to be heat soak of the intercooler. Or in the sake of the stock MSP "Interheater"
I've had it for a few years and I'm not sure if it's been re-flashed. I have a Unichip with a "tune" and I think they may have tuned it wrong, but that is just a hunch. It only hesitates at WOT. If I let off a bit then it pulls hard but when it's to the floor, it hesitates. I will check if my stock WGA has a leak today hopefully but I'm not sure if that is even my problem at this point. The weird thing is at idle my vacuum will be reading at about 10hg but if I turn on my high boost setting on my Unichip it will drop to 22hg. Does this seem strange to anyone else??...
I don't get hesitation when my engine is cold. If I drive WOT it will pull hard for the first time. The second time, it will hesitate. An FMIC can't heat soak that quickly, can it? I will say though, it does feel like heat soak, it's not so much like I'm hitting a wall (that's what my fuel cut feels like
) but rather turbo lag.Ur vacume reads 10 on ur low boost setting? That would be a pretty severw vacume leak and the car would idle pretty violently if it were actualy 10...hmm if this doesnt happen its got be miss reading, what kind of boost gauge? Mechanical or elecrical? Checked vacuum lines for unichip parts? Just throwin ideas ouy there
It's an Autometer mechanical. It isn't the gauge itself because I have two and I tried them both. I think it is the line. Can I tee that line into the brake booster line? Will it show boost if it is in that line? It's spliced off a line from the intake mani right now.
its best to use a vac block coming off the brake booster line
4
43975
qft!!
