An obscene use of titanium

a little off topic, but has anyone looked into making a hood prop kit with mcmaster parts? this talk of ball studs has me thinking.

(hmm... that sounded a little gay..)

No, but it's something I've been interested in, but the kits I saw were ~$300... not quite worth it for me. Once I wrap up this project I could start working on something like that... it's a good idea.

And yes, that did sound gay (sssh)
 
No, but it's something I've been interested in, but the kits I saw were ~$300... not quite worth it for me. Once I wrap up this project I could start working on something like that... it's a good idea.

And yes, that did sound gay (sssh)

I feel exactly the same way... especially considering its maybe $50 in parts.

keep me posted on what you come up with.. I'll adapt it to the protege platform! lol
 
Post #30 has been updated with a revised drawing that solves the clearance problem. Here it is again though. It only removes 0.250" from the narrow end of the plate, so if you had already made one you need only trim some material off.

You left off one critical dimension. How far in from the long edge is the ".397 THRU ALL" hole?
 
It occurs to me that a properly designed plate might accommodate those who want the shift forward and those who want it rearward just by flipping it over. Of course this would leave the folks who want it left centered out in the cold, but nothing is perfect...

After looking at pictures of functional plates and giving it some thought, this won`t work. Oh well...
 
Glad to see people are interested!

I might be posting in the group-buy section soon to see if enough people would want to buy titanium (or aluminum or steel) STS plates and shifter weights. I can work with a local machinist to use his water-jet table to possibly have the shifter plates look like the attached picture. It will not be inexpensive, the Ti material could be $10-$30 per plate and the water-jet time is $100/hr... I'll post here when I figure out more details and get a better handle on the cost of everything and start a group buy thread.

You are not the only one with access to a machine shop. I will probably get this made where my dad works at. Heck, you might have heard of them, Dayton Machine Tools. I won't go all out and make it with Ti, but probably SS. I also have access to the waterjet as well. Could definately work on a quick quote to see the costs behind doing several of them.
 
You are not the only one with access to a machine shop. I will probably get this made where my dad works at. Heck, you might have heard of them, Dayton Machine Tools. I won't go all out and make it with Ti, but probably SS. I also have access to the waterjet as well. Could definately work on a quick quote to see the costs behind doing several of them.


I believe we did some business with them when I was at Die Concepts, Inc.
 
You are not the only one with access to a machine shop. I will probably get this made where my dad works at. Heck, you might have heard of them, Dayton Machine Tools. I won't go all out and make it with Ti, but probably SS. I also have access to the waterjet as well. Could definately work on a quick quote to see the costs behind doing several of them.

I never presumed to be!

Unfortunately basically no one is showing interest in getting a set of Ti plates made. (shrug) worth a shot I guess.
 
Didn't mean for it to come off that way, just forgot the smiley (hand)

Haha, no worries!

On a different note: I finally got to test the aluminum STS plate I made, and I think I tired to push it a little bit too far. I would reccomend moving the shift point out a big (up in the drawing) because shifting effort is a bit high, and I think something is binding in the 2nd gear shift. Could be bending a cable a little bit too far, something bumping into something else, I don't know. It does work, and I really like the shorter shifts, but it needs a second revision to suit my style/standards. That's why I made the first version out of aluminum!
 
Finished my titanium plate. The throws are a little bit longer than the ones with my aluminum one, but the feel is much better I think. I skipped the tapped hole and simply bolted the stud in because the titanium alloy I used for the plate was extremely strong, I could see the tap flutes twisting as I was tapping it and I didn't want to break the tap off!

Here are Pics and a drawing updated for what I actually wound up doing. I added in tolerances to show how far the hole could be moved. It could be moved more if more material was added.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1707.webp
    DSCF1707.webp
    201 KB · Views: 162
  • DSCF1709.webp
    DSCF1709.webp
    287.2 KB · Views: 170
  • ST Shift Plate.PDF
    ST Shift Plate.PDF
    32.9 KB · Views: 172
TO comment on the thread name.

TO me there is never an obscene amount fo Titanium.

Love the weight, appreciate the time and effort to make your own stuff. and the cost!
 
Here are Pics and a drawing updated for what I actually wound up doing. I added in tolerances to show how far the hole could be moved. It could be moved more if more material was added.

Where does the shifter knob sit in relation to the stock setup?
 
Where does the shifter knob sit in relation to the stock setup?

With what I have now it feels like the even gears are about where the stock position is, but odd gears are closer. I moved the mounting point a TINY bit back from my drawing, 1/16" or so, but you could definitely move it further back if you wanted.

Every now and then I'd miss 3rd gear because it felt like I couldn't reach it, but no problems thus far.
 
With what I have now it feels like the even gears are about where the stock position is, but odd gears are closer. I moved the mounting point a TINY bit back from my drawing, 1/16" or so, but you could definitely move it further back if you wanted.

Every now and then I'd miss 3rd gear because it felt like I couldn't reach it, but no problems thus far.

This is pretty much exactly what I wanted to hear. Thank you. Time for me to get to work on one of these things.
 
Back