Darth Vader
Member
Too late, dude, I just upstaged you, here:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123754670
I recommend 1/4" plate
An obscene use of titanium
- Thread starter JamesCH
- Start date
Too late, dude, I just upstaged you, here:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123754670
I recommend 1/4" plate
Darth Vader
Member
You mean it won't be made out of old roll cage plate cut out using a 4-1/2 inch grinder with a cutoff wheel? ...and not drilled out with a hand drill and bench vise? Whoa! (cool)
I think the mass of steel actually helps a touch here, assisting with minimising the greater effort of the short shift but, I'm sure it'll still work fine in Ti.
I think the mass of steel actually helps a touch here, assisting with minimising the greater effort of the short shift but, I'm sure it'll still work fine in Ti.
Darth Vader
Member
Puh-lease, I'm Canadian. We invented putting coffee and doughnuts together, one of us can handle this...
You shoot me an email addy and I'll send you the blueprint, in Google Sketchup (free from Google).
You shoot me an email addy and I'll send you the blueprint, in Google Sketchup (free from Google).
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
i love it
Update on progress!
**********************************************************
Update: 9/23/2009
I finished the prints for the short-throw shifter plate today. Because I'm a good engineer I made a prototype out of some aluminum to check the fit-up, and it looks bang-on (machining the aluminum takes about 1/4 the time as the Ti). Clearances all look good too! Unfortunately I need longer bolts to mount it and test everything while driving, and the hardware store was closed when I finished machining it. However, with this good indication I'm going to start machining the Titanium part either tomorrow or Friday, depending on how much free time I have. Tomorrow I should be able to post the drawing I used in *.pdf format.
There are two different ways to go about making your own shifter plate:
Pro way- Look at the drawing and machine everything as it is indicated. Not a very practical option if you don't have a mill, unfortunately.
Everyone else way- Cut out the outline of drawing either by measuring and marking, or by taping the print right to the metal stock and using a punch and hammer(a nail works if you don't have a punch) to transfer all of the corners and hole centers, marking between the corners to get an outline to cut/sand/grind, and pilot-drilling at the hole center punches.
I did my aluminum piece half-and-half. I machined the outside profile out of an aluminum plate (3/8" was what I had to work with) and then taped a cut-out of the print to it and punched the hole locations through. I ran a small pilot drill through each hole location, drilled the full diameter hole, then tapped the ball-joint mounting hole (remember lots of oil when you tap, and turn back every now and then to break the chip).
I sourced the ball-stud from McMaster-Carr (which is freakin awesome if you haven't purchased from them before). You could get different sizes and even SS ball-studs if that's what gets you going.
McMaster PN: 9512K73
And I also found a steel plate with the ball-stud already mounted in it. So if you need the material, don't have a tap, or want to get it done the fastest way, get it!
McMaster PN: 9512K61
Again, stay tuned for updates! Ti plate to come shortly, and I'll probably be looking to sell the aluminum one I made at some point.
******************************************
Update 1
*.pdf of drawing has been uploaded! I know there's no tolerances on it, and that's because I imagine it's going to be made in many different ways to many different tolerances depending on what's available to a particular person, just use your common sense, and over-drill holes if needed.
It is for anyone to use, free of charge, and let's keep it that way. I just want credit for my work, not money. If you find someone using it for profit let me know and I'll (dark) Other than that, enjoy! Post pictures of your end product if you use it!
******************************************
Update 2
Using SolidWorks I have figured out that I need to slightly reduce the weight of my shifter weight in order to maintain the system's inertia when I add the STS plate. This is important to maintain the same shifting "feel".
******************************************
Update 3
I have corrected the drawing so that the plate clears other shifter components.
**********************************************************
Update: 9/23/2009
I finished the prints for the short-throw shifter plate today. Because I'm a good engineer I made a prototype out of some aluminum to check the fit-up, and it looks bang-on (machining the aluminum takes about 1/4 the time as the Ti). Clearances all look good too! Unfortunately I need longer bolts to mount it and test everything while driving, and the hardware store was closed when I finished machining it. However, with this good indication I'm going to start machining the Titanium part either tomorrow or Friday, depending on how much free time I have. Tomorrow I should be able to post the drawing I used in *.pdf format.
There are two different ways to go about making your own shifter plate:
Pro way- Look at the drawing and machine everything as it is indicated. Not a very practical option if you don't have a mill, unfortunately.
Everyone else way- Cut out the outline of drawing either by measuring and marking, or by taping the print right to the metal stock and using a punch and hammer(a nail works if you don't have a punch) to transfer all of the corners and hole centers, marking between the corners to get an outline to cut/sand/grind, and pilot-drilling at the hole center punches.
I did my aluminum piece half-and-half. I machined the outside profile out of an aluminum plate (3/8" was what I had to work with) and then taped a cut-out of the print to it and punched the hole locations through. I ran a small pilot drill through each hole location, drilled the full diameter hole, then tapped the ball-joint mounting hole (remember lots of oil when you tap, and turn back every now and then to break the chip).
I sourced the ball-stud from McMaster-Carr (which is freakin awesome if you haven't purchased from them before). You could get different sizes and even SS ball-studs if that's what gets you going.
McMaster PN: 9512K73
And I also found a steel plate with the ball-stud already mounted in it. So if you need the material, don't have a tap, or want to get it done the fastest way, get it!
McMaster PN: 9512K61
Again, stay tuned for updates! Ti plate to come shortly, and I'll probably be looking to sell the aluminum one I made at some point.
******************************************
Update 1
*.pdf of drawing has been uploaded! I know there's no tolerances on it, and that's because I imagine it's going to be made in many different ways to many different tolerances depending on what's available to a particular person, just use your common sense, and over-drill holes if needed.
It is for anyone to use, free of charge, and let's keep it that way. I just want credit for my work, not money. If you find someone using it for profit let me know and I'll (dark) Other than that, enjoy! Post pictures of your end product if you use it!
******************************************
Update 2
Using SolidWorks I have figured out that I need to slightly reduce the weight of my shifter weight in order to maintain the system's inertia when I add the STS plate. This is important to maintain the same shifting "feel".
******************************************
Update 3
I have corrected the drawing so that the plate clears other shifter components.
Attachments
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Darth Vader
Member
Nice, you are now officially a show-off
- :
- 2007 MS3
Make two titanium ones while you have it set up and I`ll swap a one of a kind prototype Forge "pingless" bpv for it. Works great, just requires notching the intercooler shroud slightly to fit properly, which I won`t do, so I took it out.
That's very tempting. PM me with pics of the Forge BPV?
A *.PDF of my drawing has been added to my first update post, #30.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4848099&postcount=30
Enjoy! I would appreciate any feedback.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4848099&postcount=30
Enjoy! I would appreciate any feedback.
Glad to see people are interested!
I might be posting in the group-buy section soon to see if enough people would want to buy titanium (or aluminum or steel) STS plates and shifter weights. I can work with a local machinist to use his water-jet table to possibly have the shifter plates look like the attached picture. It will not be inexpensive, the Ti material could be $10-$30 per plate and the water-jet time is $100/hr... I'll post here when I figure out more details and get a better handle on the cost of everything and start a group buy thread.
I might be posting in the group-buy section soon to see if enough people would want to buy titanium (or aluminum or steel) STS plates and shifter weights. I can work with a local machinist to use his water-jet table to possibly have the shifter plates look like the attached picture. It will not be inexpensive, the Ti material could be $10-$30 per plate and the water-jet time is $100/hr... I'll post here when I figure out more details and get a better handle on the cost of everything and start a group buy thread.
Attachments
Last edited:
