Alignment Question
- Thread starter joneb4evr
- Start date
- :
- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
What do you mean by rear end not being adjustable? Sure it is. Get 4 wheel alignments.
kickniteasy
Member
rear camber isnt adjustable, but toe definitely is...and if you like your tires at all, you'll adjust it
I just aligned mine tonight ^^
did you DIY?
ah, I'm an alignment tech...had the targets and a rack
in general tho, the rear toe is adjusted with a cam bolt on the rear lateral link.
the front toe is adjusted with the tie-rod sleeve. Front camber and caster is adjusted by moving the dot on top of your struts to one of four positions.
in general tho, the rear toe is adjusted with a cam bolt on the rear lateral link.
the front toe is adjusted with the tie-rod sleeve. Front camber and caster is adjusted by moving the dot on top of your struts to one of four positions.
Last edited:
if your alignment was perfect before and you put new struts in...everything would have moved equally on all 4 corners. So your alignment is different, but it should be ok. Especially if you kept the dots in the same spot.
Your camber and caster will have changed (due to a slight increase in ride height) but since they're even, and eventually will be back to a normal ride height, you should be ok.
Your camber and caster will have changed (due to a slight increase in ride height) but since they're even, and eventually will be back to a normal ride height, you should be ok.
Just to give more information. Both the right front and right rear struts were bad. The front one was blown, absolutely no cushion. It completely retracted when removed. The rear one would spring out easily. I went ahead and changed out all four struts because they had way less mileage on them. The alignment was done about 6 months ago.
Normally the alignment would still be good then? They are the same stock struts just newer.
I know I'd feel comfortable doing an alignment because the 6 months until I finally changed out the struts the right side was bouncing and banging pretty hard. So I know I would need an alignment. Thanks for the info Azaizai.
joneb: I'd feel 85% comfortable telling you you're probably ok...the other 15% would be the banging having slopped your toe up. thats what mine did (RF strut so blown you could push it all the way in, and pull it all the way out with *no* resistance)...toe was out almost half a degree from stock. My camber and caster required no adjustment.
joe: I've heard negative camber helps autocrossers...but its effect on tire wear and general driving is pretty nasty (at least, when you get the camber to the point that it truly starts helping turn-in). Negative camber, when driving straight, puts a lot more stress on the inside of your tire tread...wearing it out maturely, and it also makes your steering much more sensative.
I think I inadvertantly gave myself some wicked camber when I changed my struts out (in a rush, forgot if my dot was to the inside or outside) and it was like I was either driving straight...or I was turning sharply. It was fun, but I knew it wasnt good
joe: I've heard negative camber helps autocrossers...but its effect on tire wear and general driving is pretty nasty (at least, when you get the camber to the point that it truly starts helping turn-in). Negative camber, when driving straight, puts a lot more stress on the inside of your tire tread...wearing it out maturely, and it also makes your steering much more sensative.
I think I inadvertantly gave myself some wicked camber when I changed my struts out (in a rush, forgot if my dot was to the inside or outside) and it was like I was either driving straight...or I was turning sharply. It was fun, but I knew it wasnt good
joneb: I'd feel 85% comfortable telling you you're probably ok...the other 15% would be the banging having slopped your toe up. thats what mine did (RF strut so blown you could push it all the way in, and pull it all the way out with *no* resistance)...toe was out almost half a degree from stock. My camber and caster required no adjustment.
joe: I've heard negative camber helps autocrossers...but its effect on tire wear and general driving is pretty nasty (at least, when you get the camber to the point that it truly starts helping turn-in). Negative camber, when driving straight, puts a lot more stress on the inside of your tire tread...wearing it out maturely, and it also makes your steering much more sensative.
I think I inadvertantly gave myself some wicked camber when I changed my struts out (in a rush, forgot if my dot was to the inside or outside) and it was like I was either driving straight...or I was turning sharply. It was fun, but I knew it wasnt good
That's good enough for me.
Saves me $69 for the 4-wheel alignment. 
Thanks again!BlueWolfCry
Member
- :
- 02 LX, 03 MSP
Ok so just a question, when you lower your car (change out springs and struts), and have a shop do the alignment, should you go to a tuner shop or any shop will do? I ask cause I remember a while ago I had tiresplus do it and they said they align to the car's specs. So since mine didn't have the stock suspension, I was worried it would be all screwed up...is that true or am I wrong?
kickniteasy
Member
I've heard both.
On one hand, when you go to a tuner shop they're used to dealing with cars with modified suspension
On the other, if you tell the tech what you've done to your car I guess they can look it up to figure out what it should be.....or so I've been told. When I had a lowered car I had a tuner shop do it just because I felt better about it and it didn't cost anything more.
ya, I'd agree with kickn.
I got my car back to factory specs after putting on the tein s-techs (p5). there was enough adjustment through the movement in the struts that you can get away with it.
I've tried aligning some less flexible cars (some mustangs) that were lowered and had *no* camber/caster adjustment and there was no way to get to factory specs without camber plates or some "custom" fabrication.
but with most cars, there's enough tolerance that a little drop will still sit within factory specs. 15 year old cars' springs tend to weaken and sag after a while anyway...they have to allow those to slip by
I got my car back to factory specs after putting on the tein s-techs (p5). there was enough adjustment through the movement in the struts that you can get away with it.
I've tried aligning some less flexible cars (some mustangs) that were lowered and had *no* camber/caster adjustment and there was no way to get to factory specs without camber plates or some "custom" fabrication.
but with most cars, there's enough tolerance that a little drop will still sit within factory specs. 15 year old cars' springs tend to weaken and sag after a while anyway...they have to allow those to slip by
- :
- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
So, camber bolts won't adjust camber in rear?
You should be able to buy after market cam bolts for the rear that should change the camber alot of people with coil overs have cam bolts in the rear
- :
- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Thanks, I have 2 sets but haven't had to use them since my alignment shop hits my specs without them. No wander, no tire wear, no nothing, just 50 for a 4 wheel with 6 month warranty.
Similar Threads and Articles
- Question
