what turbo to go with
- Thread starter Pbo
- Start date
_MSprotegy
Member
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- 03 MSP & 06 MS6
what goals are you looking to get out of this car? i only ask because you wount be able to make BIG hp without building the motor anf getting a good tune. what are your futer mods and if you do have mods on the car now what are they?
i would say with a t3/t4 you may be able to get away with just the cam driven fuel pump and a good tune.
i plan on doing a gt3076 or gt35 with some throttle mapping to keep the air flow low under 4000 rpm. thats where the problems are occouring with this car, the tq kills them, not the hp. (confused) lol.
Ive got a downpipe, shot ram intake + inlet, step colder plugs, motor mount.
i also have an oil catch can, spin on conversion kit, and fmic ready to be installed when i get this new turbo put in.
i dont plan on building the motor and i have been talking to a shop about buying a cobb ap and dyno tuning the car, which is the only way i can go if i am getting a bigger turbo with all these mods.
like you said zinger002 im trying to avoid getting a new fuel pump, but ive been told they crap out with any more power than the stock turbo set up. i was told there are even lean spots with just a downpipe + full intake on a stock turbo. i dont know what i can do to avoid getting a new fuel pump but if i can id rather.
so again, with proper tuning + my listed mods herein begs the question, t3/t4 or gt2871R (decided the 28 is safer than the 30) and how can i avoid a new fuel pump
i also have an oil catch can, spin on conversion kit, and fmic ready to be installed when i get this new turbo put in.
i dont plan on building the motor and i have been talking to a shop about buying a cobb ap and dyno tuning the car, which is the only way i can go if i am getting a bigger turbo with all these mods.
like you said zinger002 im trying to avoid getting a new fuel pump, but ive been told they crap out with any more power than the stock turbo set up. i was told there are even lean spots with just a downpipe + full intake on a stock turbo. i dont know what i can do to avoid getting a new fuel pump but if i can id rather.
so again, with proper tuning + my listed mods herein begs the question, t3/t4 or gt2871R (decided the 28 is safer than the 30) and how can i avoid a new fuel pump
Boosted MS6
Member
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- 06 MS6
I too am considering a 50trim, journal bearing or not. Can you get a 50 trim with BBs? Precision? That would be nice! 
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Boosted MS6
Member
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- 06 MS6
It's really not much better than a reworked K04 from what I've read. (uhm)
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- 2011 Mustang GT
As mentioned, it's not a bad turbo, but runs out at top end like the K04 does.
I'd consider the BNR reworked one, or, if you can, do a GT3076, not the 3071. Just plan on the new manifold, EWG, and a tune for it as well.
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- 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
If you already know this....
Then what's the point of this?
The MZR DISI community already knows that the stock cam-driven fuel pump is inadequate and unreliable when it comes to making higher than stock power. Why would you be so determined to spend thousands of dollars on an upgraded turbo, tune, other modifications... not to mention the engine itself... and in turn be so determined to skimp on the most important part that is only a few hundred dollars? Out of everything you've listed off, proper fuel delivery is the most important part.
I get so sick of this boy racer/ricer attitude that if it doesn't add "X" horsepower, I'm not spending my money on it. My advice to you Pbo... do some research. Not just on this platform, but on race engines period. Take a good look at some testimonials and pictures of what happens when an engine leans out. At this point, since it's spending money without adding 'power' you don't want to buy it.
I hate to be abrasive about it, but maybe if I tell you that you don't know what the hell you're doing or talking about it might save you an engine and a lot of money. If after all this, you still feel in all your experience that you know better than to upgrade fuel delivery... be my guest.
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- 2011 Mustang GT
Good point Chris. There's a reason the CDFP upgrade is a common one. I'd think for most it would be a necessity for those going to a SST or BT in the future, or anyone who wants to do a fully bolted MS6 with a tune.
Just because you can make power, doesn't mean that it's safe. The 2871 is a nice turbo, but if you're going to "upgrade" then why not go for the 3071/7076? You'll have more top end boost, which is the area that many agree is better to have power (since the thought is that the torque at the low end is what trashes the rods and leads to motor failure).
Just because you can make power, doesn't mean that it's safe. The 2871 is a nice turbo, but if you're going to "upgrade" then why not go for the 3071/7076? You'll have more top end boost, which is the area that many agree is better to have power (since the thought is that the torque at the low end is what trashes the rods and leads to motor failure).
Why?? It's probably the cheapest part of this little upgrade you want to do.
+1 (mswerd)
decided to go with the 2871R....running only what the stock pump can handle which i think is 17lbs?
only reason why i'm upgrading is because i'm past warranty and the stock turbo is leaking through the seals like no other, smoking everywhere. i got the 2871R for the same price as i could have gotten a k04 from the dealer.
unfortunately according to blendercloud i don't know what i'm talking about since i cant afford a fuel pump at the moment. my bad big guy, want to lend me a few hundred so i can get one?
does not being able to afford something really constitute you as a "boy racer/ricer" who doesn't know what they're talking about? and as for doing research on race engines, i just finished building a fully sponsored '65 box nova with 1226 whp/985ft/lb
so if u want to come off sounding like a dick again realize that its not that i don't want/ disregard the importance of proper fuel delivery, its just i cant afford it at the moment.
only reason why i'm upgrading is because i'm past warranty and the stock turbo is leaking through the seals like no other, smoking everywhere. i got the 2871R for the same price as i could have gotten a k04 from the dealer.
unfortunately according to blendercloud i don't know what i'm talking about since i cant afford a fuel pump at the moment. my bad big guy, want to lend me a few hundred so i can get one?
does not being able to afford something really constitute you as a "boy racer/ricer" who doesn't know what they're talking about? and as for doing research on race engines, i just finished building a fully sponsored '65 box nova with 1226 whp/985ft/lb
so if u want to come off sounding like a dick again realize that its not that i don't want/ disregard the importance of proper fuel delivery, its just i cant afford it at the moment.
Pbo sounds like a newb.
pics of said nova.
hope you bought the t3/t4 w/e so you have to pay more to reflange your stock manifold.
dont come in here asking questions if you just knock down legitimate answers.
enjoy your 900psi from the fuel pump, your lean condition, and your 8 grand for a new block and parts.
btw i have a gt2871r.
pics of said nova.
hope you bought the t3/t4 w/e so you have to pay more to reflange your stock manifold.
dont come in here asking questions if you just knock down legitimate answers.
enjoy your 900psi from the fuel pump, your lean condition, and your 8 grand for a new block and parts.
btw i have a gt2871r.
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- 2011 Mustang GT
I just get sick people not realizing the full scope of a major upgrade like this. You NEED increased fueling when going BT. Hell, the upgraded CDFP should have been done long before you decided to upgrade the turbo. If you want, log your fuel pressures with the AP or DH and post them up here. If you're not holding above 1700 in the upper RPMs, then I suggest you go out and pick up internals ASAP.
Pbo, the other issue is that people have been trying to basically give away their stock K04's (in the MS3/MS6 forums).
You could have grabbed one of these, had it rebuilt, and had cash for the internals, for about the same price as a dealer-supplied turbo. Is it the best case scenario? Obviously no, but it would have helped get everything back to normal from a reliability standpoint. Will it make a s***-ton of power, such as the sponsored '65, hell no...and it won't, ever. But you already know this.
Dude, you asked for advice, and got it in spades. Take the advice and run with it. Sell the FMIC, get a TMIC, and internals. Or don't.
You could have grabbed one of these, had it rebuilt, and had cash for the internals, for about the same price as a dealer-supplied turbo. Is it the best case scenario? Obviously no, but it would have helped get everything back to normal from a reliability standpoint. Will it make a s***-ton of power, such as the sponsored '65, hell no...and it won't, ever. But you already know this.
Dude, you asked for advice, and got it in spades. Take the advice and run with it. Sell the FMIC, get a TMIC, and internals. Or don't.
As far as the original topic, there's no point slapping parts on the car without doing a proper tune & when modding do it the right way. Doing the hop up mods is fine, yes you need a better fuel delivery sys, but without proper tuning all you have is a time bomb that you wasted money on. BTW when achieving more power don't forget about the rest of the car, Suspension / Chassis to get the power down & drivetrain to maintain the power from the engine to the wheels. Happy Modding to everyone.
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- 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
I've deleted several posts that were off the topic of the thread. While I think we all did enjoy the pictures, this isn't the correct thread for them.
To the OP, for the record: Building a Chevy V8, arguably the most common engine platform of all time, and manipulating the performance of a direct-injected, turbocharged I4 that has only been in production for five years are two entirely different monsters.
Since you're set on the 2871r, what method of tuning are you using? Because without it, particularly in winter, you're going to cost yourself an engine. It's not like you can just pop the hood and fatten up the carbs a bit. The ECU of this car manipulates every parameter the turbo runs by. Without a proper tune, and a method to impose that tune (see our Cobb Accessport thread) you're going to have wasted money on a new turbo that will need to be spent on some new pistons.
I also have a Nova, a '71. It runs low 9's and occasionally a high 8. Not sponsored, all self-built machined and built. I can tell you from experience this MZR engine is drastically different than your sponsored Nova. Don't make a mistake that will cost you thousands upon thousands of dollars.
To the OP, for the record: Building a Chevy V8, arguably the most common engine platform of all time, and manipulating the performance of a direct-injected, turbocharged I4 that has only been in production for five years are two entirely different monsters.
Since you're set on the 2871r, what method of tuning are you using? Because without it, particularly in winter, you're going to cost yourself an engine. It's not like you can just pop the hood and fatten up the carbs a bit. The ECU of this car manipulates every parameter the turbo runs by. Without a proper tune, and a method to impose that tune (see our Cobb Accessport thread) you're going to have wasted money on a new turbo that will need to be spent on some new pistons.
I also have a Nova, a '71. It runs low 9's and occasionally a high 8. Not sponsored, all self-built machined and built. I can tell you from experience this MZR engine is drastically different than your sponsored Nova. Don't make a mistake that will cost you thousands upon thousands of dollars.
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