I paid $5,000 for mine in 2013. And have since put over $1,600 into it...
I definitely overpaid for mine, but I was drawn in by the turbo, like every teenager. Oh well.
What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
I paid $5,000 for mine in 2013. And have since put over $1,600 into it...
I definitely overpaid for mine, but I was drawn in by the turbo, like every teenager. Oh well.
IllaNoizeTV
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege
So to get this thread going again. I'm debating whether I shud buy these this weekend and sell the harts. What do you guys think?
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Bought some clunk fix brackets off this forum. I knew I never should have sold my old ones back in 2011 (against SCCA stock class rules at the time) and I'd eventually want them again. Also spotted a silver MSP close to where I live and it wasn't my old silver one either. Nice to know there are a few driving around Rochester.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
I need to get new bushings for my rear sway it's been clunking like crazy. Although after new bushings and greasing them I didn't have any noise from them for about 3.5 years which is plenty long for me. Got my WGA in the mail so hopefully can install that soon, also made a boost leak tester so I can eliminate more variables on this no boost issue. Need to fix the trunk leak in 1345 as well as install the extended lugs and find some 15mm spacers.
Yeah, that's because you live in a warm climate with no road salt use. I need to grease my bushings every spring and fall and I'm pretty sure my bar wore down and is now like 19.5mm at the OEM location. Even urethane bushings can't fix the squeaks and clunks and half the nuts inside the rear subframe broke off. Can't wait to get the brackets and install them. I might make some measurements and sketches of them first so when I get my welder, I can use some spare stock and maybe start building new ones.
started to pull the turbo setup this evening before i ran out of daylight/phone battery. is it practical to remove the manifold/turbo with the lines detatched or do i have to remove it all as one thing? looking at the oil feed im not sure how im supposed to remove that without a special tool. other lines i might be able to do. everything is off the front of the car. now its just pull manifold, investigate the oil cooler ect after that and hopefully it comes out smooth for a good clean. i was a little worried about some oil blowing by but i think it was just dirt on the inside of the compressor housing due to a bad filter. the intercooler itself was bone dry and clean on the inside. turbo has a slight tick in both directions but it has 140km, id expect there to be some play.
oil stain on the buttom of the comp housing, likely due to leaking return fitting.
plan for the p5 is to just tap the required oil return, on the block, but is the tap needed for the oil feed already there or will i need to do it myself? alternately, are people using a T line off the pressure sender? seems MUCH safer than tapping the block in the car. not too worried about taping the return, i might drill it from the inside and mask the whole bottom end from shavings.
i guess the main question is if i should bother with aftermarket oil/coolant lines or just use these ones.. the msp is prob gonna get a full turbo kit when its rebuilt down the road. maybe its not sensible to try to save anything? just drag and drop it to the p5.
oil stain on the buttom of the comp housing, likely due to leaking return fitting.
plan for the p5 is to just tap the required oil return, on the block, but is the tap needed for the oil feed already there or will i need to do it myself? alternately, are people using a T line off the pressure sender? seems MUCH safer than tapping the block in the car. not too worried about taping the return, i might drill it from the inside and mask the whole bottom end from shavings.
i guess the main question is if i should bother with aftermarket oil/coolant lines or just use these ones.. the msp is prob gonna get a full turbo kit when its rebuilt down the road. maybe its not sensible to try to save anything? just drag and drop it to the p5.
Turbo off without removing the manifold is next to impossible. Probably doable but I wouldn't recommend trying. Your knuckles will thank you.
For the oil feed, tee at the pressure sender. Just remember that the thread in the block is BSPT and not NPT.
Oil drain, there is no spot ready for it. I wouldn't recommend drilling the block. Figure out how to get a fitting welded on the pan or remove the MBSP and put a fitting in that.
Coolant lines, oem are easiest but when you go to do the MSP you'll have to do aftermarket which is a bit of a pain. It's 6 of one, half dozen of another.
For the oil feed, tee at the pressure sender. Just remember that the thread in the block is BSPT and not NPT.
Oil drain, there is no spot ready for it. I wouldn't recommend drilling the block. Figure out how to get a fitting welded on the pan or remove the MBSP and put a fitting in that.
Coolant lines, oem are easiest but when you go to do the MSP you'll have to do aftermarket which is a bit of a pain. It's 6 of one, half dozen of another.
i was kinda hoping NOT to have to pull the trans to do this... doesnt that have to come out to pull the MBSP? they make fittings that slip in from the inside an dhave a nut to seal on the outside with orings ect. would that not be applicable here? not seeing why a tap on the mbsp or block would be a big deal as the turbo return isnt pressurized?
Correct. A bulkhead fitting may be the best option. Drilling the cast iron block with a hand drill may not be as clean as you want it to be and then you have to contend with the splash from the rotating element inside the block. If the drain is in the wrong spot it may not flow properly. Same as with the pan... If it's too low or the oil sloshes up to the drain it can block it and cause turbo leaks.
Yes the trans has to come off to take the MBSP off. I did mine and then took the trans to my shop and put two holes in it with NPT fittings. Now I can take off the MBSP without pulling the trans.
It's best to have the drain where the oem engineers designed it but ultimately ends up your decision. I'm just putting in my $0.02. I had to go through a bunch of screwing around with my MBSP due to the fact that when I changed over from the stock DP to the pope one my drain location wouldn't work so I had to do it again. That fiasco included jb welding a bolt into a hole and drilling and tapping through it so the second drain would be in the perfect position. It's never an easy fix with these stupid cars especially when trying to engineer your own way of doing things.
Yes the trans has to come off to take the MBSP off. I did mine and then took the trans to my shop and put two holes in it with NPT fittings. Now I can take off the MBSP without pulling the trans.
It's best to have the drain where the oem engineers designed it but ultimately ends up your decision. I'm just putting in my $0.02. I had to go through a bunch of screwing around with my MBSP due to the fact that when I changed over from the stock DP to the pope one my drain location wouldn't work so I had to do it again. That fiasco included jb welding a bolt into a hole and drilling and tapping through it so the second drain would be in the perfect position. It's never an easy fix with these stupid cars especially when trying to engineer your own way of doing things.
I havnt had the oil pan off yet, but would it be possible to tape and mask the crankcase and tap the same location with the support plate attached? I do have the fortunate use of very expensive power tools with various angle attachments.
If it has to come apart I guess it is what it is... just kinda don't wanna.do it again..
Trans not that heavy but it usually works out that I'm alone putting it back in.
Oh and it sounds like a dry fit with my pope stuff is also a good idea...
If it has to come apart I guess it is what it is... just kinda don't wanna.do it again..
Trans not that heavy but it usually works out that I'm alone putting it back in.
Oh and it sounds like a dry fit with my pope stuff is also a good idea...
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Not sure if you've seen the MBSP but it's mostly closed except for a few holes. You'd be hard pressed to keep from spreading metal chips all over the inside of your engine. And yes, make sure all of your parts are in place before you locate a spot. Good luck.
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
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- 2003 MSP
Didn't get anything done today but tomorrow I am going to tear down my spare MSP setup. Since I need money to build one good speed I think I will sell the extra speed setup lines everything I have a GT28 and a stock so which every one doesn't sell I'll use.
ZealoustheEnder
Contributor
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- 2003 MSP
I was hoping to sell everything as a kit. I already have a guy with an mp3. Interested making his a speed but I need to give him a price and also find out if he want fmic or the stock smic. I'll let you know if he falls through.
Here is were the holes to remove the mbsp need to be located.
Holes need to be big enough for a 10mm socket and long extension.
It's funny I have one speed no access holes and the the second the look like they came that way from the factory.
Here is were the holes to remove the mbsp need to be located.
Holes need to be big enough for a 10mm socket and long extension.
It's funny I have one speed no access holes and the the second the look like they came that way from the factory.
sheesh. not a lot of room to turn the wrench lol. I guess ill just have to drop the trans and pull the plate this time. i didnt change the rear main bearing seal last time so i guess this time there is no excuse. just a lot more downtime is all.
IllaNoizeTV
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege
Question, I just bought a 03.5 msp wing but what do I cover the original holes with in the middle of the trunk (from the middle part of the 03 wing)? I'm afraid a body shop will cost an arm and leg. Any other solutions?
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
You can use plugs but it will look like s***, only way to do it right is to weld the holes shut and sand them smooth.
