- South Carolina
- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
I don't think those are the wrong plugs. NGK Iridium 4344 (LTR5IX-11). Got them at RockAuto. So far so good.Hate to break it to you, but those are the wrong plugs. You needed to get the NGK OE Laser Iridium, not the Iridium IX's.
If you haven't installed them yet, I'd definitely exchange them.
They're not the right plugs, I promise. The correct part number is LTR5BI-13. Notice that NGK states that the LTR5BI-13 is the actual OEM plug. And they should know, they make them.I don't think those are the wrong plugs. NGK Iridium 4344 (LTR5IX-11). Got them at RockAuto. So far so good.
OK, I see what you mean. You're referring to the OE reference. NGK's list also includes other plugs so I don't see how any of them are wrong parts.
Thanks for the input and feedback. I've had nothing but good experiences with NGK plugs of all sorts, in a variety of vehicles. Several sets of Iridium IX's included. All were a fit based on NGK web site first and foremost but other web sites made those references too. So looking forward to seeing how the vehicle behaves in coming months.Because the way our motors are, they always, always, run better with the original equipment plugs.This is especially critical with the Skyactiv motors. Luckily our 5's have the MZR, so it's not quite as critical. But still, the price difference is only a few bucks each between the correct plug, and the "yeah, I guess it'll be okay" plug.
Just because RockAuto, AutoZone, or O'Reilly's says a part is compatible, doesn't mean it's the right one to make the engine perform as well as possible.
I can absolutely tell you this: if you ever have to replace any type of solenoid or sensor, ALWAYS insist on OEM.
...is there a special tool for getting those poky things off of the rubber exhaust mounts...
@1987cp You want to try to spin the hub, so set the flat part of your hammer on one of the four ears of the hub and pound on the ball end with a 5 pound. Spin it one way and then the other way to loosen it. Then you should be able to pound it out.
Or air hammer back and forth on the ear to spin it if you have one.
Ever try to buy a brake caliper rebuild kit? I asked a parts guy about it once since I'd always bought rebuilt calipers but the old shop manuals show how to do it yourself. He rolled his eyes slightly and looked it up, and we found that the kit (with piston sold separately IIRC) was actually more expensive than a rebuilt caliper.Yeah, I think the best choice is the complete LCA, because you get all new bushings and ball joints.
If this is about the front lower control arms (LCAs), I'd like to share some experience. I've had 1st gen Mazda 5 with this. When choosing LCAs, double-check the geometry. I've seen some feedback about aftermarket LCAs scratching against the front rotors.Yeah, I think the best choice is the complete LCA, because you get all new bushings and ball joints.