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- South Carolina
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- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
That's why Engineers are so highly paid. And that's why I never try to second guess them.
What have you done to your Mazda5 today?
- Thread starter Rockin03mp5
- Start date
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- South Carolina
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- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
Hate to break it to you, but those are the wrong plugs. You needed to get the NGK OE Laser Iridium, not the Iridium IX's.We'll see how NGK Iridium IX work out.
If you haven't installed them yet, I'd definitely exchange them.
No, just drain and refill. I think this was my forth since purchase at 30k miles or so.
I don't think those are the wrong plugs. NGK Iridium 4344 (LTR5IX-11). Got them at RockAuto. So far so good.
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- South Carolina
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- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
They're not the right plugs, I promise. The correct part number is LTR5BI-13. Notice that NGK states that the LTR5BI-13 is the actual OEM plug. And they should know, they make them.
OK, I see what you mean. You're referring to the OE reference. NGK's list also includes other plugs so I don't see how any of them are wrong parts.
Laser Platinum Spark Plug PTR5A-13 2467
Ruthenium HX High Ignitability Spark Plug LTR5AHX 90220
Iridium IX Spark Plug LTR5IX-11 4344
G-Power Spark Plug LTR5GP 5019
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- South Carolina
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- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
Because the way our motors are, they always, always, run better with the original equipment plugs.This is especially critical with the Skyactiv motors. Luckily our 5's have the MZR, so it's not quite as critical. But still, the price difference is only a few bucks each between the correct plug, and the "yeah, I guess it'll be okay" plug.
Just because RockAuto, AutoZone, or O'Reilly's says a part is compatible, doesn't mean it's the right one to make the engine perform as well as possible.
I can absolutely tell you this: if you ever have to replace any type of solenoid or sensor, ALWAYS insist on OEM.
Just because RockAuto, AutoZone, or O'Reilly's says a part is compatible, doesn't mean it's the right one to make the engine perform as well as possible.
I can absolutely tell you this: if you ever have to replace any type of solenoid or sensor, ALWAYS insist on OEM.
Thanks for the input and feedback. I've had nothing but good experiences with NGK plugs of all sorts, in a variety of vehicles. Several sets of Iridium IX's included. All were a fit based on NGK web site first and foremost but other web sites made those references too. So looking forward to seeing how the vehicle behaves in coming months.
I agree with rweatherford, stuff does just keep going in a 5 somehow. I can fit a fullsize cello and other junk along with 6 passengers and a 4 wheel walker. It's not the same as having a real van, but I was very amused when a relative who ignored my advice and bought an Escape acted shocked that my car actually holds stuff! Seriously, capacity for size, that Escape really is not that good, and I'm glad I almost never have to think about it.
Today I took my brand new rear struts off so I could get at the rear hubs, as after replacing the struts I noticed the hub whir of death. I think I've determined that the weird thunk from the rear is the muffler having its pipe mostly rusted nearly through just aft of the axle-area connection, because the rear shock-to-shock-mount connections are quite solid and tight. Put lots of Liquid Wrench on the exhaust connections. Is there a special tool for getting those poky things off of the rubber exhaust mounts?
Similarly, I had surprising luck getting the bolts out to swap the UCAs for adjustables - except for the d/s bolt hitting solidly on a muffler hanger that I think is welded on. Oh, right, the rear subframe would originally have been assembled as a unit before installation, so it's possible the factory engineers didn't catch this issue. Or else there's a bolt retaining the muffler hanger that I can't see since it's gotten dark out!
I was impressed that all 8 fairly rusty rear hub/bearing bolts came out with relatively little fuss, BUT the flanges seem to be fused to the trailing arms! Same stunt the original front rotors pulled when I tried to replace them at 6 years old. So far I've applied lots of Liquid Wrench and beaten on them with a 32 oz ballpeen, but no luck. At least now I know not to be shocked if I have to go get new trailing arms.
The front strut replacement I managed earlier in the afternoon, by contrast, was almost boring!
Today I took my brand new rear struts off so I could get at the rear hubs, as after replacing the struts I noticed the hub whir of death. I think I've determined that the weird thunk from the rear is the muffler having its pipe mostly rusted nearly through just aft of the axle-area connection, because the rear shock-to-shock-mount connections are quite solid and tight. Put lots of Liquid Wrench on the exhaust connections. Is there a special tool for getting those poky things off of the rubber exhaust mounts?
Similarly, I had surprising luck getting the bolts out to swap the UCAs for adjustables - except for the d/s bolt hitting solidly on a muffler hanger that I think is welded on. Oh, right, the rear subframe would originally have been assembled as a unit before installation, so it's possible the factory engineers didn't catch this issue. Or else there's a bolt retaining the muffler hanger that I can't see since it's gotten dark out!
I was impressed that all 8 fairly rusty rear hub/bearing bolts came out with relatively little fuss, BUT the flanges seem to be fused to the trailing arms! Same stunt the original front rotors pulled when I tried to replace them at 6 years old. So far I've applied lots of Liquid Wrench and beaten on them with a 32 oz ballpeen, but no luck. At least now I know not to be shocked if I have to go get new trailing arms.
The front strut replacement I managed earlier in the afternoon, by contrast, was almost boring!
@1987cp You want to try to spin the hub, so set the flat part of your hammer on one of the four ears of the hub and pound on the ball end with a 5 pound. Spin it one way and then the other way to loosen it. Then you should be able to pound it out.
Or air hammer back and forth on the ear to spin it if you have one.
Or air hammer back and forth on the ear to spin it if you have one.
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- 2012 MZ5 Sport
When I was removing my exhaust on my 2012, I found a pokey tool to get the rubber around the lip of the metal exhaust hanger, while yourself or a friend pushed on the other end of the rubber piece with a larger tool, worked for me. The hangers wedged up right near the body were the worst...
That and getting some grease in there. I had some liquid wrench on hand and used that as a lubricant.
Oh, that would have been better than what I did. I ended up hitting it from side to side with the back end of an axe (my 8# sledge was at another property).
I eventually got things back together, took the car for a very smooth drive, and found a clunking. Removing the muffler that seemed to be bouncing around after rusting 98% of the way through the midpipe flange didn't fix it, nor did swapping the accordion shock boots back to stock, so I will go over the right rear again to see if there's a bolt that could be tighter or possibly a damaged rubber bushing. Disappointingly, Energy Suspension doesn't really seem to support Mazdas ....
I did make a locating mark to see whether I can successfully reattach the muffler to its flange - save a few bucks, plus the original muffler is probably nicer than my one option for a replacement. The midpipe, on the other hand ... it's got a lot of holes, great big gaps everywhere there's one of those reinforcement plates attached. At least it's a lot quieter than when the Y pipe rusted off my Colony Park.
I also finally got around to elongating a couple of strut tower bolt holes to try to equalize the front camber and eliminate the annoying pulling I've been putting up with for years (and which the dealership failed to correct when I paid them $85 for an alignment after a $15 coupon - and now I discover the only real adjustments from the factory are the front tie rods! Seems they managed to tweak the thrust angle, though.). Camber (in degrees, of course) had been LF -1-5/8, RF -1.0, and rear really bad; now it's like RF -1-7/16, and LR +5/16 and RR 0.0. Will have another go at that eventually but this drives much better.
Finally, and this seems really stupid, I realized the front shimmy is probably the tie rods, so I'll be replacing those sometime soonish.
Yeah, I think the best choice is the complete LCA, because you get all new bushings and ball joints.
Ever try to buy a brake caliper rebuild kit? I asked a parts guy about it once since I'd always bought rebuilt calipers but the old shop manuals show how to do it yourself. He rolled his eyes slightly and looked it up, and we found that the kit (with piston sold separately IIRC) was actually more expensive than a rebuilt caliper.
If this is about the front lower control arms (LCAs), I'd like to share some experience. I've had 1st gen Mazda 5 with this. When choosing LCAs, double-check the geometry. I've seen some feedback about aftermarket LCAs scratching against the front rotors.
Also, while at it - check and possibly replace the sway bar bushings. They are cheap and easy to replace while you're there.
