Time to replace tie rods?

[MR6]

When at rest, turning the wheel back and forth quickly results in a pronounce clunk clunk i can feel in the steering wheel. I know it's not the FSB cuz i have it disconnected and zip tied to the frame while i await new bushings. I'm thinking it's the tie rods???? In my VW days, one had to replace the entire rod. So happy to be back on Mazdas as it looks likes our rods are 2-piece. From the drawings, it doesn't look like the inner tie rod has any kind of ball joint that would wear. So, would i get away with only replacing the outer tie rods? TIA.

 

[MR6]

I got her up on all fours today for other work and checked the tie rods. They look fine. But when i grabbed the rotor and wiggled it, the clicking sound was there. It came from the center - at the rack. I banged the tie rod with a rubber mallet and the sound, again, i swear came from the rack itself. If that's what it is, $700+ isn't happenin right now.

 

[mazdadude]

I got her up on all fours today for other work and checked the tie rods. They look fine. But when i grabbed the rotor and wiggled it, the clicking sound was there. It came from the center - at the rack. I banged the tie rod with a rubber mallet and the sound, again, i swear came from the rack itself. If that's what it is, $700+ isn't happenin right now.

(hear ya)

To be honest, I have noticed this sound on mine for as long as I can remember...

It never bothered me that much as it never worsened over time. It was always a "click" and never a clunk or thud.

I would love to see a cut-away picture of the electric rack to see where the "Play" is coming from.

 

[MR6]

thx for the feedback! I was hoping that was the case. I was about to start going to dealers and test driving 5s to see if it was normal. Would anybody else mind getting in there 5, starting her up and just quickly wiggle the steering wheel back and forth? Let's find out if this click and the play in the steering is really normal. Thanks!

 

[pashu]

My Mazda5 is making the same sound, there is a clear play when moving the rotors. Also worried it could be the rack pinion, $200 just for the rebuilt part + 8 hours of work.

The main reason why I am going after the suspension is that the steering wheel vibrates when going over 100 km/h. I know that I need to get the wheel balanced and aligned, but I am also guessing that at 270 K the suspension is most likely gone. I have already replaced the control arms, the tie rods are next and stabilizer links are next.

Have you resolved your problem? Was it the lower tie rods?

 

[MR6]

no, replaced the outer tie rod ends and it's still there. I sat in my garage this weekend and just wobbled the steering wheel back and forth and the "kerclunk" was loud with each turn. I'm almost convinced it's the rack. When i get some time, i will have a shop diagnose it. For now, we only drive it local.

 

[Nutella]

I am also having vibrations over 100 km/h, more near 110-120km/h. 2012 Mazda5 GT with 215/45/17 stock alloys. Tires are Made in China 'Grand Prix' something or rather, came with the car I got 1 year used - tons of tread 80%+

Same vibration happened last summer, but did NOT happen with winter steelies set this past winter. Mind you, winter set is completely different weight and could make resonating vibes at different speeds.

Same vibration happened this summer with the summer tires/wheels criss-cross rotated from last summer.

So I figured it was balancing on the summer set. Just had all 4 summer stockers rebalanced and STILL vibrating!

1) I have not tried the simple quick steering when parked to check for clunks, but I will.

2) I think it could be the tires? I have another set of loose tires 215/45/17 60% used Yokohama Avid Envigor that I could try. At least it will eliminate the tires + balancing from the culprit list.

3) What about rim it self?

4) Suspension would be the hardest thing to pin point for this I'd imagine.

 

[sac02]

From your description, I would say there is a 90% the tire/wheel assembly is at fault. Balancing is not the only cause of vibration in tire/wheel assemblies, it could be a defective tire, or even a high spot in the tire mated to the high spot on the rim giving you high RFV. There's tons of things that can cause a vibration, but always check the tire/wheel assembly first since it is so common for them to be at fault, and (if you have an extra set, like you do) it's easy to swap on a new set and eliminate a variable.

Whenever you have 2 hours to spare:
Drive a short loop around your house, including freeways (or wherever you notice the vibration the worst). focus and take careful notice of when, where, how fast, and how strong the vibration is. Then put the winter set that you know is vibration-free on the car and drive it for the same loop. I suggest the winter tires instead of the Yoko's because you said that you know the winters are vibration free, I don't know the status of the Yokos. 20 miles of driving in warm weather won't hurt winter tires, just don't do any 100+mph bursts or run them at highway speeds for extended times. If the vibration is gone (or reduced to acceptable levels) then you've already isolated your issue. then you can start to look at balance, phase matching, bent rims, or defective tires. Or if the vibration doesn't change, start looking at the car itself.

 

[Nutella]

^ thanks for your reply, I will start with the tire swap first. As I don't have 2 hours to spare with the wife's car (Mazda5) and 2 little kids eating all our 'spare time' haha. The Yokohama tire set just came of my '10 Civic Si sedan with zero problems. I switched to hi-perf. rubber. So I know those Yokos are good, but worn to 60-70%. Thats ok for the wife's Mazda5 because it gets only 15K kms a year.

 

[Nutella]

^^ PROBLEM SOLVED! ^^. It WAS the tires! After putting on the Yokohamas (used) and removing the 'Grand Prix Tour RS' China tires, no more vibration at 120 km/h.

That took $40 for balancing the China tires (to rule out balancing) then $80 for swapping. Geez. But better than some other suspension/steering problem.