STS Miata - Project: Stronger Faster Lighter
- Thread starter aMaff
- Start date
wewt more progress. Got the engine on the stand tonight and made some progress tearing the thing down. I keep getting amazed once I tear into new things in cars how simple everything really is. As usual, no surprise, it's just nuts and bolts! Crazy huh? 
FWIW, it looks like the oil pan has been off of this motor before, which raises an eyebrow, but I can't really find anything terribly out of shape, so if there was a repair done, it seems like it was done well because I can't find it. The only think is that I removed about 5 lbs of RTV from the block from that.
I'm looking for a couple words of wisdom now though: Any thoughts on how to remove the front and rear 'plates' (the ones that hold the main oil seals)? I can't seem to figure out how to work them loose. I don't really want to start bashing stuff w/ a hammer b/c it's aluminum, so really, any advice is appreciated.
Pics for Shawn:
There is literally an ~1/8" layer of grime on the bottom of the oil pan. Nasty s***.
Pics 'inside the head'
Various stages of disassembly:
EDIT: Other things that can and will be done now that I have the documentation:
Head decked 0.2mm
Block decked 0.2mm
First factory overbore
I should also be able to get the gaps on the rings as tight as the FSM allows. Pretty much every one of these things will help with power.
Is it sad I'm getting excited for what may or may not end up being 10 hp? I'm going to cry if it makes the same as the engine currently in the car LOL
FWIW, it looks like the oil pan has been off of this motor before, which raises an eyebrow, but I can't really find anything terribly out of shape, so if there was a repair done, it seems like it was done well because I can't find it. The only think is that I removed about 5 lbs of RTV from the block from that.
I'm looking for a couple words of wisdom now though: Any thoughts on how to remove the front and rear 'plates' (the ones that hold the main oil seals)? I can't seem to figure out how to work them loose. I don't really want to start bashing stuff w/ a hammer b/c it's aluminum, so really, any advice is appreciated.
Pics for Shawn:
There is literally an ~1/8" layer of grime on the bottom of the oil pan. Nasty s***.
Pics 'inside the head'
Various stages of disassembly:
EDIT: Other things that can and will be done now that I have the documentation:
Head decked 0.2mm
Block decked 0.2mm
First factory overbore
I should also be able to get the gaps on the rings as tight as the FSM allows. Pretty much every one of these things will help with power.
Is it sad I'm getting excited for what may or may not end up being 10 hp? I'm going to cry if it makes the same as the engine currently in the car LOL
Last edited:
Buy stock overbore pistons.
lol the holes are actually there. That's the color that old coolant apparently turns when it dries up. All the coolant passages are that light brown color for some reason. And yes, I'll need m0ar piston for the overbore
Yes they will. I would be ecstatic with that increase to the wheels, but I'll take whatever I can get.
No real progress yesterday as I'm kind of stuck until I can get this crank pulley bolt cracked. I should be able to do that tonight. I'm borrowing my co-driver's compressor and impact gun (evil)
However, you don't even want to KNOW how fast my toolbox is now!
However, you don't even want to KNOW how fast my toolbox is now!
so, tonight I went and got a pulley puller to get the timing cog off of the crank and to get the oil pump off and basically finished the disassembly of the engine. Now as soon as I can crack the piggy bank open, I'll be able to get the machine work and head work done, and get the parts ordered from mazdaspeed / etc to hammer this thing out. That way, as soon as the season's over, we can swap in the engine and allow time for any teething issues that may crop up.
That's the plan at least.
That's the plan at least.
Damnit, I didn't want to post in any of your threads....oh well. Glad you got it off. Take a dog home with you next time.
No thanks, you can keep those crazy beasts
. If you had any sane dogs, then I'd consider it . Thanks for letting me borrow that (even if I had to supply my own bolts for it, GAWSH!), it worked like a charm!you're not exactly helping matters
There was no movie. But considering it's 4:10 am and I just got back from a waffle house..... some alcoholic beverages were consumed, yes.
Last edited:
No thanks, you can keep those crazy beasts
I've got sane dogs! Take one of mine!
I've got sane dogs! Take one of mine!
LOL you don't live 10 minutes from me so I can return it when you're not looking though!
(actually, that wouldn't happen, but you know...)
So yes, where are we? The 'other' engine is totally torn apart, I'm more than likely going to have OPM Autosports in Cumming, GA (lol cumming) do the machine work on the block and head, and the maintenance on the head. I was marveling at the fact that the entire bottom end of this engine (not including the block and oil pan, but pretty much every damn thing else), in labled bags, fits in a 12x12x8" tupperware box. And the lid closes lol. For someone who's never done this before, there's surprisingly little there. I actually was taken back at the simplicity of the thing. We all know the principles of how an internal combustion works and all the components, but I guess for me it all seemed overly simplified until I tore this thing apart. You look at it and go 'nope... that really IS all there is to it' haha
This afternoon I finished up the work on the manual steering rack conversion. I took 'er out for a spin and it feels great! It's not very heavily weighted and feels really direct. I was actually surprised at how light it was sitting still in the garage. I have to say I'm very pleased with the results.
Only a couple minor issues cropped up... the manual rack had outer tie rod ends, but the dust boots were in crappy shape. Getting them off wasn't terribly difficult, but as the ring that seats the boot on the ball joint of the rod end is rigid, and makes for a VERY tight fit, getting them back on is best described as a royal pain in the balls. The problem is, it's nearly impossibly to get it seated using 'standard' hand tools. So, I figure I'd RTM and see if I couldn't garner any wisdom from the FSM. Well, there's a SST (special service tool) that's used with a press to get these things on. Great... now you tell me...
Now I have to go out and pick up one of these schfancy SSTs
And by schfancy SSTs, I mean a $0.56 PVC 3/4 > 1" PVC fitting. Because the fitting was smooth on the inside, it wouldn't risk tearing the boot like a metal 6 or 12 pt socket would. The 1" fits pretty much perfect over the boot, and the smaller 3/4" side fits over the stud on the rod end, and is an excellent surface for hammering
. About 5 minutes on the work bench and I had re-greased and re-booted the tie rod ends.Also, during my 1st drive I noticed that the steering wheel was about 1/3 turn too far to the left. I mean... it LOOKED like we had the rack straight when we put it on, so wtf? LOL. Oh well, lesson learned... put the steering wheel on once the wheels are on the car so you KNOW, not before. I removed the wheel, set it straight, and got it 99% right. Any other corrections can and will be changed via the alignment. My options were either a hair to the left or a hair to the right, so it's REALLY close.
In my short drive, the alignment didn't feel terrible, but I could tell it's not 100%. The toe is WAY out. I'm heading to GTE for that on Thursday. We'll see if they can't squeeze some more caster out of this thing. After they get that done, the only thing left to do is bolt the engine splash guard to the bottom of the car and autox it on Sunday (drive2)
Last edited:
OMG sex. Today the manual steering swap was completed in that she got put on the alignment rack and dialed in. The product of just slapping the new rack on the car and calling it a day without even an eyeballed toe adjustment was a VERY vague / twitchy car.
After getting it up on the rack, it appears that was the product of having 1.8 INCHES of total front toe out HAHAHAHAHA. Apparently the car this thing came off of was WAY off because everything's right where it was when I bought it. Anyway, we dialed in a touch extra camber all around while we were there, and I think this'll help settle the rear down some while giving the front a little more bite. The rear camber was a compromise b/w myself and the co-driver, as he's having a bit of a... spinning... problem. Hopefully it doesn't settle it too much or it'll be going right back to where it was, as I like the car a touch loose (he likes it with a touch of push, so...). Anyway, the car feels great. Haven't exactly driven it in anger yet, however the manual rack is DEFINITELY more connected than the powered one. I've never street-driven a car w/ manual steering, but it's a huge difference. It's obviously weighted heavier than the powered rack, but the biggest difference is simply how much feedback you have. Totally awesome, and I'm really stoked about it.
Now... if I could figure out a way to tow this thing to Alabama this weekend so I can autox it. Problem with the new seats is that I've got about an hour, hour and a half max range in them before they become painful. I really need to look into making a couple of foam inserts to fix the ass / lower back area.
After getting it up on the rack, it appears that was the product of having 1.8 INCHES of total front toe out HAHAHAHAHA. Apparently the car this thing came off of was WAY off because everything's right where it was when I bought it. Anyway, we dialed in a touch extra camber all around while we were there, and I think this'll help settle the rear down some while giving the front a little more bite. The rear camber was a compromise b/w myself and the co-driver, as he's having a bit of a... spinning... problem. Hopefully it doesn't settle it too much or it'll be going right back to where it was, as I like the car a touch loose (he likes it with a touch of push, so...). Anyway, the car feels great. Haven't exactly driven it in anger yet, however the manual rack is DEFINITELY more connected than the powered one. I've never street-driven a car w/ manual steering, but it's a huge difference. It's obviously weighted heavier than the powered rack, but the biggest difference is simply how much feedback you have. Totally awesome, and I'm really stoked about it.
Now... if I could figure out a way to tow this thing to Alabama this weekend so I can autox it. Problem with the new seats is that I've got about an hour, hour and a half max range in them before they become painful. I really need to look into making a couple of foam inserts to fix the ass / lower back area.
I have to agree with this statement. The Miata's power steering sucks as it feels so loose. When I swapped in my manual rack, the feel of the car seemed so much better.
