I personally am not familiar with that sequence of cel/flashing. If it's not triggering while driving it's not enough to trigger limp mode, however I would check the fail safe modes below to see if any of those apply to you. Here is what I got from the SVC manual on that code. I would get the dongle and the torque app ($5 for pro) as it shows more codes and is always being updated. It also can be used to monitor a bunch of other things.
P0882:00 Illuminated —
TCM (transmission control module) power
supply voltage
low
1 C
(See DTC
P0882:00
[FW6AEL,
FW6AXEL
2015 - CX-5 - Transmission/Transaxle
DTC P0882:00 [FW6A-EL, FW6AX-EL]
DTC P0882:00 TCM power supply voltage low
DETECTION
CONDITION
l Under the following conditions, the TCM power supply voltage is 8—10.5 V or less (varies with ATF temperature):
n 5 s or more has elapsed or battery voltage exceeds 11 V or more for 0.2 s since engine speed increases
-200 rpm or more of target idle speed.
n Selector lever position is D or R position.
Diagnostic support note
l The check engine light illuminates if the TCM detects the above malfunction condition during the first drive cycle.
l The automatic transaxle warning light does not illuminate.
l PENDING CODE is available.
l FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
l DTC is stored in the TCM memory.
FAIL-SAFE
FUNCTION
l Set to emergency mode.
l Inhibits learning control.
l Inhibits manual mode.
l Inhibits neutral idle control.
l Inhibits AAS.
l PCM DTC is stored.
l Battery malfunction
l Generator malfunction
l TCM connector or terminals malfunction
l TCM power supply circuit malfunction
n Short to ground in wiring harness between AT 15 A fuse and TCM terminal A
n AT 15 A fuse malfunction
n Open circuit in wiring harness between battery positive terminal and TCM terminal A
SYSTEM
WIRING
What I got from this that you can do by yourself (and without having the torque app to see if there is a sending code as outlined), before you pay $100 at the stealership for them to diagnose it, with pretty much no chance of messing something up if you are scared of working on your own car. At least if you find something it may save you time/money if you do have to go there.
1.Look into the front area of the motor (from the top) and see if it looks like any fluid (at) is sitting on the belly pan.
2. Check the AT 15 amp fuse and make sure it's not blown or otherwise damaged
3. If needed, take some canned air to exposed connector ends around the ECU/fuse box
4. Check the battery it may be on it's way out (add distilled water if needed, clean terminal if needed wd40 works).
5. Check the grounds near the shock towers for crud/loose wire, they are painted from the factory and sometimes it's actually painted in the threads too (mine were).
