Spark Plugs

whats the explaination behind this? im not doubting anyone's knowledge because people always aquire different info from different sources and having a few options and explainations could help decipher what plug to use and why. i currently am using the denso 1 step colder with plenty of mods and when i installed them the difference was noticed immediatly. very great throttle response, smoother accel, smoother idle and so on right from the get go.

Keep in mind that a fresh set of plugs may work well even if the heat range is wrong. If the plugs get fouled (because they are too cold), it obviously won't happen immediately.
 
ok so even though both plugs will perform the same initially, the longevity of performance from the iriduims will be more reliable and predictable because of its heat ranges and material (iridium).

i was trying to say that the stock heat range doesnt NEED the iridium sp, but once you push more hp and boost etc...you should switch to the iridium because of the heat range, which is something the stock standard plug wont be able to perform best at. i think i was asking that as a question...not a statement...a statement/question. lol. sorry for the confusion.
 
I must agree. After adding the larger intercooler with an unrestricted exhaust I starting running into some rough firing under load or heavy throttle ( racing). the stockplugs were still in, and she started to throw codes for misfire. I played with gaps and tried some different heat ranges. I am now using the Denso itv22 i think they are called at a gap of about .030 less. I have alittle bit more air getting into the combustion chamber than before and the car is running very well. Would there be an advantage to running colder plugs on a stock set up? i'm not sure. Maybe if you were running the car hard alot and generating lots more heat? By the way, i still hear that copper plugs are best with more boost. But how about direct injection motors?
 
We need to separate out the issues here. Iridium v. non-iridium is one issue. Heat range is a separate one.

Understand, now, that the stock plugs, from the factory do have iridium tips. Mazda did this right with the plugs. If you get factory replacement stock plugs they do have iridium tips. All replacement plugs on forced induction engines should have iridium tips, IMHO because of their superior ability to handle high heat and their ability to resist fouling.

Heat range is a separate issue. The standard heat range is best for engines that do not have increased boost or very high flowing exhaust systems (aftermarket downpipes and race pipes), or are not aftermarket tuned to a leaner air to fuel ratio.

So, use iridium regardless of tune or mods.

Use one step colder plugs ONLY if you are running higher than stock boost levels (manual boost controller, etc.), are running an aftermarket tune (AP, Standback, etc.), or have a big high flow aftermarket downpipe/race pipe.

The reason engines modded this way need colder plugs is because those mods will increase the possibility of engine knock. The ECU will see the knock and hold back timing advance, which will cause the engine to not get full benefit of the mods and could have some effect on drivability.

Running colder plugs on an engine that does not need them will not produce performance gains, but will increase the risk of fouling the plugs. Colder plugs pull heat away from the combustion chamber. The tip needs to be kept within a certain temperature, hot enough to burn clean without fouling, cool enough to reduce the risk of knock, detonation and possible engine damage.

I hope this is a bit more clear.
 
Crystal clear, well explained sir. I should have mentioned i am running a bit more boost than stock. Thanks for the thoughtful clarification for everyone
 
We need to separate out the issues here. Iridium v. non-iridium is one issue. Heat range is a separate one.

Understand, now, that the stock plugs, from the factory do have iridium tips. Mazda did this right with the plugs. If you get factory replacement stock plugs they do have iridium tips. All replacement plugs on forced induction engines should have iridium tips, IMHO because of their superior ability to handle high heat and their ability to resist fouling.

Heat range is a separate issue. The standard heat range is best for engines that do not have increased boost or very high flowing exhaust systems (aftermarket downpipes and race pipes), or are not aftermarket tuned to a leaner air to fuel ratio.

So, use iridium regardless of tune or mods.

Use one step colder plugs ONLY if you are running higher than stock boost levels (manual boost controller, etc.), are running an aftermarket tune (AP, Standback, etc.), or have a big high flow aftermarket downpipe/race pipe.

The reason engines modded this way need colder plugs is because those mods will increase the possibility of engine knock. The ECU will see the knock and hold back timing advance, which will cause the engine to not get full benefit of the mods and could have some effect on drivability.

Running colder plugs on an engine that does not need them will not produce performance gains, but will increase the risk of fouling the plugs. Colder plugs pull heat away from the combustion chamber. The tip needs to be kept within a certain temperature, hot enough to burn clean without fouling, cool enough to reduce the risk of knock, detonation and possible engine damage.

I hope this is a bit more clear.


gotchya. i thihnk i had the right idea just a little bit screwed up. thanks!
 
Crystal clear, well explained sir. I should have mentioned i am running a bit more boost than stock. Thanks for the thoughtful clarification for everyone

Glad to maybe be of some help. Yes, if your boost is higher than stock, go for the colder plugs. Your engine will thank you.
 
So I shouldn't go one step colder with a race pipe, cai, turbo inlet, deleted resonators, forge bpv and a fmic?
 
The generally accepted "rule" is 1 step colder for every 50 whp over stock. That being said there are a few unique things about the MS3.
1- There are no plug materials available in the particularly long, fine thread pitch that our car uses other than iridium
2- Pulstars are garbage and platinum in boosted apps is BIG no no, the multi point electrode is BS as well.
3- Copper/silver plugs would be great but as mentioned above we cannot get them.
 
So I shouldn't go one step colder with a race pipe, cai, turbo inlet, deleted resonators, forge bpv and a fmic?

I don't think those mods would really benefit from a colder plug. If you tune and raise boost or lean it out or add a downpipe would be when to move colder, IMHO.
 
I don't think those mods would really benefit from a colder plug. If you tune and raise boost or lean it out or add a downpipe would be when to move colder, IMHO.

see i think with those mods the car will hold boost longer and slightly higher than a stock motor. when i had a combo similar to this my boost was 2psi higher than stock. i was hitting 15-16 psi to redline with an 18 spike as opposed to 13-14psi. i guess without a monitoring tool theres no real way to tell...i would run 1 step colder in the fear of KR without knowing it. your not going to hurt anything putting them in....theyre only 40 bucks.
 
I would like to mention at this point, about 'reading' plugs. There are some good primers on how to look at your plugs and see how well it is burning and if anyone really is interested you can even find these in a Haynes manual for most cars. But a little google searching can help you see what your combustion chamber is doing without datalogging. It might be kind of fun too. It is how all race cars are evaluated including Nascar and Ihra and etc, even though they have systems to record data. The mechanics pull the plugs and adjust fuel and timing to get it dialed in. Alot of how the plugs look is related to the driving style too. I am not trying to confuse the issue, just saying reading plugs is a good barometer as to whether the car is running efficiently. with your mods and driving style. You could run a colder plug when you track the car and the stock plug for the daily or winter driving. I have no argument about more boost generating more heat that's for sure.
 
That's how my boost is now like you said. I spike up to 18 then hold at 16 til redline. I need to watch KR. Wonder if I should buy a DH, or wait til xmas and get a cobb ap...
 
There is a Dashawk for sale right now in our marketplace for great price. Check it out. I have had the same dilemna for quite awhile. You will always be able to sell the Dashawk i think for a decent price. Who knows maybe i will buy it come spring!
 

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