Spark Plug

If you look on the NGK box it tells you exactly how to tighten the plugs with and without a torque wrench. There are tons of way to clean plugs youtube it
 
Don't spend more money on a short torque wrench, just apply pressure more slowly. No reason to spend money. The plug should not snap, either. How that plug snapped off like that is beyond me. What is the torque value you are tightening to? Seems to be too much.
I had my torque set in the middle range for both. Coil was like 74-84 plug 12-14. I actually broke two bolts holding a rear panel while installing my trailer harness. Same ultra tight bolts on the same braket, both sheared off untorquing by hand.
 
Chris - likely faulty torque wrench - I like the old style that measures the amount of bend in the handle rather than the click style which are less consistent. What is Sp in you statement "there are 3 different Sp for the cx-5, depending on your build date"? It is best you replaced with new ones. How did you get the broken part out?
 
Ok good to hear. Actually, I forgot. I'll get some and redo it.
Just be careful not to get the anti-seize on the porcelain or electrode. Anti-seize conducts electricity and you could create a path to ground resulting in misfire.
 
Chris - likely faulty torque wrench - I like the old style that measures the amount of bend in the handle rather than the click style which are less consistent. What is Sp in you statement "there are 3 different Sp for the cx-5, depending on your build date"? It is best you replaced with new ones. How did you get the broken part out?

sp spark plug, luckily for me the thread part just separated from the plug itself so it was still to big to fall into the motor. I was able to use the what little grip was still available from the broken seam and a flathead screw drive to finish screwing it out. And yea, the wrench I use is a 1/2 inch one tat is like 1.5ft long. I mianly use it for wheels/suspension (large) bolts. Trying to use a giant wrench (which was all I had for a torque wrench) with 2 attachments to make it fit an 8mm bolt was a bad idea anyways. I still believe that some of those bolts are weak though. Plastic rivets breaking, not a big deal, metal bolts shearing (especially loosening) not a good sign. That was the first time I ever broke a bolt like that on anything; and that's 3 from one source!
 
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Just be careful not to get the anti-seize on the porcelain or electrode. Anti-seize conducts electricity and you could create a path to ground resulting in misfire.

Yea, I will probably just leave it and take appropriate measures when removing it; I don't want to mess around with them with my giant wrench anymore. PLus I almost got myself intoa real pickle because 2/3 mazda dealers near me did not have the plug, and luckily a 3rd kinda out of the way one did. I ended up missing a dr's appointment at the va I had scheduled for a month, was late to a class that I had a test in ( which I had forgot about LOL).. and had a certification seminar I had to attend to day in dallas a 400mi drive. bad chain of event's that almost cost me big time, in addition to the unexpected $150 for plugs. At last now I know how fragile a plug is and how to do it.
 
If you know the plug mfg and mod you are looking for you can probably find them at Genuine Parts, Auto Zone etc. for less or order them on line. I have an early CX-5, what plug does it call for? Was it the same as what came in yours? What came in yours?
 
If you know the plug mfg and mod you are looking for you can probably find them at Genuine Parts, Auto Zone etc. for less or order them on line. I have an early CX-5, what plug does it call for? Was it the same as what came in yours? What came in yours?

The problem I ran into was AutoZone and other similar places were only carrying a larger plug which I believe is standard across newer 2.0 motors and the 2.5's. In other words, if you have the early build spark plugs, you will most likely be paying an arm and leg at the dealer. The best bet is to ask the parts dept at your dealership, they can tell you the plug based on the last part of your vin.
 
Yea, I will probably just leave it and take appropriate measures when removing it; I don't want to mess around with them with my giant wrench anymore. PLus I almost got myself intoa real pickle because 2/3 mazda dealers near me did not have the plug, and luckily a 3rd kinda out of the way one did. I ended up missing a dr's appointment at the va I had scheduled for a month, was late to a class that I had a test in ( which I had forgot about LOL).. and had a certification seminar I had to attend to day in dallas a 400mi drive. bad chain of event's that almost cost me big time, in addition to the unexpected $150 for plugs. At last now I know how fragile a plug is and how to do it.

Unfortunately, "appropriate measures" are using anti-seize when installing. If the steel plug seizes to the aluminum head, it is Helicoil or TIME-SERT time. I highly recommend getting anti-seize on there in the next 6 months or so.
 
Unfortunately, "appropriate measures" are using anti-seize when installing. If the steel plug seizes to the aluminum head, it is Helicoil or TIME-SERT time. I highly recommend getting anti-seize on there in the next 6 months or so.

I'm not sure that is completely true and seems a bit extreme. For one the factory plugs probably didn't have anti-seize on them from the factory and most are good for 100,000 miles. I have never pulled a factory plug and seen a lubricant on them. It's more important to not remove the plugs when the engine is hot and to use the proper tightening procedure when installing them. When you try to remove plugs from a hot engine it's possible to ruin the aluminum threads. Yes it's a good idea still if Chris is up to it to still put the anti seize on but I doubt the plugs will fuse to the head unless they are improperly installed and removed or the cylinder head is exposed to extreme weather conditions.
 
I was looking at the NGK site to see if they offered spark plugs for my 2014 2.5L CX5. Seems that NGK stops at 2011 and no yearly updates after. Anyone know if NGK sells plugs for a 2.5L SkyActiv?
 
I'm not sure that is completely true and seems a bit extreme. For one the factory plugs probably didn't have anti-seize on them from the factory and most are good for 100,000 miles. I have never pulled a factory plug and seen a lubricant on them. It's more important to not remove the plugs when the engine is hot and to use the proper tightening procedure when installing them. When you try to remove plugs from a hot engine it's possible to ruin the aluminum threads. Yes it's a good idea still if Chris is up to it to still put the anti seize on but I doubt the plugs will fuse to the head unless they are improperly installed and removed or the cylinder head is exposed to extreme weather conditions.

That is also something I noticed; the plugs had no kind of grease or anything on them when I removed it.
 
The plug most likely snapped because you had a long extension I would guess. You have to hold the ratchet end of the wrench to react the force you apply to the wrench. Essentially you want to keep the ratchet end and extension perfectly alighted with the axis of the spark plug. If not, it will apply a bending force to the whole spark plug and snap. Often its the porcelain that snaps.

a 0 to 30 or 0 to 50 ftlb is the largest torque wrench that would be useful for spark plugs. Click type torque wrenches are not at all accurate below 20% of their setting range. Also, I would expect that the coil nut torque is in inch lbs....not foot pounds. That is a factor of 12 difference
 
The plug most likely snapped because you had a long extension I would guess. You have to hold the ratchet end of the wrench to react the force you apply to the wrench. Essentially you want to keep the ratchet end and extension perfectly alighted with the axis of the spark plug. If not, it will apply a bending force to the whole spark plug and snap. Often its the porcelain that snaps.

a 0 to 30 or 0 to 50 ftlb is the largest torque wrench that would be useful for spark plugs. Click type torque wrenches are not at all accurate below 20% of their setting range. Also, I would expect that the coil nut torque is in inch lbs....not foot pounds. That is a factor of 12 difference
Thanks for the tips. In my case the metal thread around the porcelain snapped , and the ft lb range was 12-14.


 
I had my torque set in the middle range for both. Coil was like 74-84 plug 12-14. I actually broke two bolts holding a rear panel while installing my trailer harness. Same ultra tight bolts on the same braket, both sheared off untorquing by hand.

That's crazy for sure. Something's wrong because to be honest 12-14 is not much. To snap that there must have been a bad plug in there, a bad torque wrench or something else. Spark plugs shouldn't be cranked down.

Anyway, glad all turned out well. I also agree putting anti seize is not needed, but in the end you gotta make the choice.
 
If you're going to work on a somewhat expensive vehicle, you should invest in the right tools before you start a job, instead of learning the hard way that the wrong tool can lead to broken parts.

The ignition coils need a 1/4" drive torque wrench that reads in inch-lbs.
The spark plugs need a 3/8" drive torque wrench that reads the low scale of ft-lbs.
The only thing you should be using a 1/2 drive torque wrench for is things like suspension parts, lug nuts, and cylinder head bolts.

It's one thing to be enthusiastic with your car, but it's a whole other thing to waste money on lessons that are better left unlearned.

BC.
 
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