Spark Plug

Chris_Top_Her

Contributor
:
San Antonio, Texas
:
'15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I was considering checking and cleaning if needed my spark plug. The service manual says use gasoline to remove carbon (after racing engine to remove it). Any personal experience with cleaning spark plugs?
 
In the old lead days there was a sand blasting machine that would clean the lead off. Now they go 100,000 miles ok. I used to clean old low rpm/low compression tractors with a knife. Now if I went to the trouble to take them out I would replace them but not before 50,000 miles...
 
When I clean spark plugs, I use a combination of a battery cleaner like this one, followed by brake cleaner, which evaporates quickly, and a clean, dry, lint free cloth.

Be sure to check the gap before reinstalling the plugs.
battery-post-cleaner.jpg
 
Spark plugs these days are designed to last so long (platinum and more delicate BTW), by the time you think you would need to clean them, just replace them with new ones because by then some of the tip will have worn away, anyway. If there is a problem with your plugs getting dirty before 100k you have a larger issue in your engine. The plugs don't "get dirty" by themselves from normal operation in a properly functioning engine. If so, Skyactiv was poorly designed. Also if you leave cleaner on your plugs and put them back in, you are asking for potential engine damage.
 
Spark plugs these days are designed to last so long (platinum and more delicate BTW), by the time you think you would need to clean them, just replace them with new ones because by then some of the tip will have worn away, anyway. If there is a problem with your plugs getting dirty before 100k you have a larger issue in your engine. The plugs don't "get dirty" by themselves from normal operation in a properly functioning engine. If so, Skyactiv was poorly designed. Also if you leave cleaner on your plugs and put them back in, you are asking for potential engine damage.
That's probably why the manual said use gasoline which evaporates quickly. Also, direct injection makes a lot of carbon compared to other gas engines. Frankly when it comes to my vehicle that I want to last for a long time, and be able to drive it hard in that long time, I'd rather be proactive than trust words like "lifetime' and high numbers like 100000. My car is out of warranty at 60000, I'm already over half way through after less than 1.5 years. Physically getting to the spark plug is not difficult at all, I have just never done it myself and was looking for people here who have. I'll check to see how dirty the tip is when I remove it and post. Hopefully it wont be extra dirty.
 
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When I clean spark plugs, I use a combination of a battery cleaner like this one, followed by brake cleaner, which evaporates quickly, and a clean, dry, lint free cloth.

Be sure to check the gap before reinstalling the plugs.
battery-post-cleaner.jpg

Thanks, the the manual mentioned to keep the gap within (they specified a range). Also a way to know if it should be replaced.
 
let us know how much they needed cleaning and your actual mileage at cleaning...
 
Personally, I think you'd be better off to dump a can of Techron in your tank just before every oil change. That is supposed to remove carbon from the entire combustion chamber. If you change the oil right after, that gets any loose deposits that got past the ring out of the oil.

I've never seen a dirty plug on any modern engine that could be cleaned up effectively. Old tractors and older poor running carburated engines yes. I have seen a few semi-modern motorcycles that had carbon fouling, but effectively removing the thin carbon layer was next to impossible. Even if you thought they were clean, they might still have weak spark due to shorting through the carbon. They were best just to be replaced. Even this was only at unusual times such as removing from long term storage and having old fuel at first start-up.

The electrodes on modern spark plugs are so tiny and delicate, that I wouldn't touch them with a wire brush, maybe a brass one. They are just a braised pin-head of material.

If you do remove the plugs, make sure to coat them with anti-seize before you install. I suspect you will find some very clean plugs, unless the DI thing has a drastic effect on things.
 
Yeah, modern engines run very clean, unless there is a problem. I would remove them, photograph them for us to see, :) spray them down with brake cleaner, carb cleaner or rinse them in gas. If you want to brush them, get a small brass brush. Gap them and put them back.
 
You spent $260 for a corksport racing ashtray, but you can't spring for a new set of plugs?
 
With modern cars, to me, replacing a spark plug is more about not letting the plug screws seize onto the engine block since they last so long anyways. I'll do mine probably after 50k miles.
 
You spent $260 for a corksport racing ashtray, but you can't spring for a new set of plugs?
Lol, you contribute 0 to this forum, except for snide remarks, and childish insults (panel filter thread comes to mind). Sad part is you are probably older than me. Obviously our priorities when buying were different; the most being that you drive a base model, and I don't. This is a community forum, I probably have more miles on my car for how old it is compared to most of the members who are active here and I don't see a problem with posting my experiences. Whether my plugs need to be replaced or not, if I want to buy new denso plugs for $25 ea, or Bosch plugs for $7 ea is not the issue. If anything it's to give insight into what to expect after 35k of driving on a new engine, and if I am going to take the plug out, I may as well clean it off too. Thanks for the comments that actually gave me some tips vs the anti-social illogical BS stinger likes to post (suspension changes only for professional racing.. really?) . I'm trying to learn my car (and self maintenance). I got the plug socket today and I'll probably do it tomorrow if not Friday.
Stringer imo, you should stay away from threads hat include anything about making a change that is not OEM or not per the manual, you seem to get agitated very easily.
 
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That's probably why the manual said use gasoline which evaporates quickly. Also, direct injection makes a lot of carbon compared to other gas engines. Frankly when it comes to my vehicle that I want to last for a long time, and be able to drive it hard in that long time, I'd rather be proactive than trust words like "lifetime' and high numbers like 100000. My car is out of warranty at 60000, I'm already over half way through after less than 1.5 years. Physically getting to the spark plug is not difficult at all, I have just never done it myself and was looking for people here who have. I'll check to see how dirty the tip is when I remove it and post. Hopefully it wont be extra dirty.

Pull one and look at it, snap a pic and post it as another mentioned. If it were me I'd forego cleaning it. I'd regap it and put it back in. Again, the element on todays plugs is far more delicate than the plugs of yesteryear. Anyway, give us an update. I would appreciate it. You've been good at treading new ground for all of us and i appreciate it.
 
Spark plugs after 36,000. Had a a hard time getting the camera to focus. They seemed pretty dirty to me, all about the same dirtiness. This is my first time removing or inspecting a spark plug s take it with a grain of salt.





A learning experience for me and also a valuable lesson about not using a giant torque wrench for a small bolt lol. After I cleaned them with gasoline and a small brush I broke one torqueing it in (correct torque, too large wrench with a huge arm applying to much torque to quickly). Learned something, going to have to pick up a small torque wrench :p. Maybe that coil was just a bad luck because I also torqued the ignition coil bolt in half with the same setting that clicked perfectly on the other 3. On that one it did not click (again too large wrench). I ended up buying all new plugs so I wouldn't have to play a guessing game down the road if something happened and I had 1 new plug and 3 old ones, plus now I have 3 extras if something does happen.
Also, there are 3 different Sp for the cx-5, depending on your build date, so have the dealer vin check which you need before you buy.




Cheers.
 
Normal healthy spark plugs. The center porcelain is supposed to be just off white, which it is. The black soot on the threads is also normal. No modern engine really ever requires periodic cleaning or other maintenance of the plugs. They are replaced when the electrodes erode and the gap goes out of spec. Interesting to see, but I would not consider it a normal preventative maintenance item. I'd leave the new ones alone until the scheduled replacement interval. Hope you used anti-seize when re-installing?
 
Normal healthy spark plugs. The center porcelain is supposed to be just off white, which it is. The black soot on the threads is also normal. No modern engine really ever requires periodic cleaning or other maintenance of the plugs. They are replaced when the electrodes erode and the gap goes out of spec. Interesting to see, but I would not consider it a normal preventative maintenance item. I'd leave the new ones alone until the scheduled replacement interval. Hope you used anti-seize when re-installing?

Ok good to hear. Actually, I forgot. I'll get some and redo it.
 
Ok good to hear. Actually, I forgot. I'll get some and redo it.
Be VERY careful when putting them back in (based on your previous experience). You really don't want to snap off a spark plug down in the hole. That could result in a major repair bill.

Thanks for sharing the pics though, its good to see the plugs weren't too bad at all for the mileage.
 
Don't spend more money on a short torque wrench, just apply pressure more slowly. No reason to spend money. The plug should not snap, either. How that plug snapped off like that is beyond me. What is the torque value you are tightening to? Seems to be too much.
 
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