Shadow102's RX7 NA build thread

big ole fail...mazda gave me a S4 pump which has a central mounting hole in the bottom of the pump as opposed to two seperate holes on the s5 pump...guess this will be a good time to pull the steering rack and fix my fog lights
 
here is where i started and left off this weekend, pulled everything off including the rack so i can "break" it tomorrow. Going to hopefully exchange the water pump for the correct one tomorrow or atleast hope that someone in the city has the correct pump.

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Car is up and running again nice to get out and drive it again. Removing that seal in the rack help A LOT I can now steer the car a lot faster which is great except I can now get a feeling for the suspension limits which means more work lol.

Gotta hook up the temp gauge still and I went ahead and wired my fogs to use h3 bulbs just have to re install them.
 
Subbing for future reference...

EDIT: what gauge pod hast du?
 
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Hey meant to contact you I haven't got those measurements yet I never had the car jacked level yet. I have to put it on the rack at work tomorrow though so I can get those measurements then

And the gauge pod is a wrx pod that goes over their clock on the dash. Just had to cut the back end off of it to have it fit. It isn't perfect but it doesn't look bad either.
 
Installed some custom front endlinks today just experimenting. So far so good, improved the front response a little. They are going to run until i break them because they are a size too small.

Also installed my upper intake manifold after gasket matching and porting it friday. Nothing really gained here but i had a chance to clean all the carbon build up off the TB. Oddly enough the lower center opening had some oil build up in it...not sure what this is from going to check it out though.

Also reinstalled my fogs, took them out to install yellow bulbs (mazda uses some weird h3 bulb with a two prong plug) also took the time to use some turtle wax headlight cleaner on them, A+ to that stuff, worked phenominal. Also picked up a right side fog bracket as mine was bent and ordered 2 of the last 3 fog light clips available in the country...there is one left somebody grab it lol.

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Received and installed one of the most important parts today...new front door speakers. The old sony xplods did, well exactly what they said they would do. The drivers speaker was shot and the passenger was on its way out. I put some cheap ebay marine speakers in there $20 shipped brand new and they sound half decent so I am happy I can listen to my music now.

Also was tired of the sloppy shifter. Turns out even after replacing all the bushings I was still missing the bushing that sits in the turret, unfortunatly you have to order the entire block in the turret to get that bushing (or that's how mazdatrix sells it). So I just took a large rubber vacuum plug, trimmed it, and stuck it down in there. Problem solved I can now find the gears a lot better. This is going to stay until I either put in a miata short shifter or make my own bushing front metal or hard plastic.
 
How so was the shifter sloppy? Was it loose/not returning to neutral? I think that's a problem with a spring. Any reason for going with a Miata short shifter, or is it just because you have a Miata transmission?
 
How so was the shifter sloppy? Was it loose/not returning to neutral? I think that's a problem with a spring. Any reason for going with a Miata short shifter, or is it just because you have a Miata transmission?

no, there basically the shifter, which has that smaller ball at the bottom, ex:
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that ball sits in a cup that essentially translates movement from the shifter into the transmission. The cup is bigger than the ball, and there's a bushing in there that ensures a snug fit. If there's no bushing, there's a ton of slop in the shift linkage.
 
How so was the shifter sloppy? Was it loose/not returning to neutral? I think that's a problem with a spring. Any reason for going with a Miata short shifter, or is it just because you have a Miata transmission?

Problem #1 was the normal bushings which I replaced a while ago helped but not great

Problem #2 the ball at the bottom of the shifter has a lot of free space which is where the slop is

The miata short shift is a couple reasons. But first I am using a miata gearset I still have to use my rx7 housing so it bolts into the car. Any way the miata shift first off is cheaper than any offering for the rx7, second it fits with very very little modification, and thirdy I can use miata bottom bushings including any upgraded ones (I assume they make them because they are a big weak point).

My spring is ok, yeah its not the best as it has a little problem returning to neutral from the 1-2 side of the shift pattern but otherwise not the problem.
 
I don't think that my shifter had a bushing when I removed it. The miata's short shifter works with some slop since its bushing did not fit in my RX-7s cup. I don't remember what year Miata short shifter I got, it's been awhile but it was an ebay special.
 
Well figured out the bushing thing. Did a shifter replacment on a xrunner the other day and saw it had a larger version of the miata shifter bushing. I tried it yesterday and it fit abolutly perfect in there. Clipped right on the shifter ball and fit right in the turret with no slop. Shifter feels awesome now. Dunno if this is something new or what but anybody looking for that bushing its the lower bushing for a toyota tacoma 05+ with the 6speed transmission. I can get the part number for anyone interested.
 
I'll get the part number on monday while I am at work, I will also post the mazda numbers for the upper and lower bushing sets, the lower number is rough to find sometimes
 
Update
Been having some frustration with the car. Ever since swapping out the upper intake mani and cleaning out the tb the idle has gone crazy. Some of it was due to a vacuum leak, then I adjusted the tps, and lastly the idle screw. However the car still idles at 1k-950rpm and when my fan kicks on the car idles at 700-750. Before all this the car held a steady idle at 700-650 at all times.

Other problem is my water temp guage isn't working that I installed. I am thinking sending unit but I gotta email cyberdyne to see what the testing method for it is.

Good news is that the coolant is all bled and temps for water are lower than usuall on the stock gauge (still don't trust it) also ordered a upper rubber shifter boot to keep the heat out of the cabin, and I should be buying an oil cooler, window reg., and ss brake lines (getting a set even though I already have the rear) tonight. Also trying to pick up a fuel sending unit tonight as well. That should all take care of a lot of niggling issues I have been having.
 
What did you clean the throttle body with? Brake cleaner and carb cleaner are not acceptable answers. ;)

Mazda employs some sort of coating that helps seal the plate when it is closed. It's easily removed by such cleaners and will affect idle.
 
What did you clean the throttle body with? Brake cleaner and carb cleaner are not acceptable answers. ;)

Mazda employs some sort of coating that helps seal the plate when it is closed. It's easily removed by such cleaners and will affect idle.

I used toyota throttle body cleaner. The idle issues settled down a lot this morning car actually idles smooth and steady at 750-800 now and no dip in the rpm when the fan kicks on. I think only once or twice did it try to run up to 900 rpm and stay there.

Other good is that the coolant temps are still staying in the lower side of the factory temp gauge and that my oil temps only peaked out at 202 this morning and that was driving it harder than normal. Even better usually at idle the oil temps from 200 might dip down to 195ish and it takes it a while, from 202 the temps dropped to 184 within a matter of 60secs.
 

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