Reason #1 and #2 why it's better to change your own oil Vs a dealer

Yes, and they charge so much for this service. I was at the Nissan dealer for my Frontier last week and they wanted $95 to change the cabin air filter. I changed it myself a few months ago and paid $10 for the filter.
 
Hardest part is cleanup and disposal. In other words, not hard.
I mentioned this in the oil analysis thread, but at my 1st oil change I installed a Fumoto valve. It's going to make oil drains a whole lot cleaner going forward. I will open the valve, drain directly into an empty 5 qt container until full, then close the valve. I can even stop mid-way and catch a sample.
 
I mentioned this in the oil analysis thread, but at my 1st oil change I installed a Fumoto valve. It's going to make oil drains a whole lot cleaner going forward. I will open the valve, drain directly into an empty 5 qt container until full, then close the valve. I can even stop mid-way and catch a sample.
That valve does not get all the oil out of the pan that would normally come out with the regular drain plug and is really not something you want to mess with as a point of failure.
 
That valve does not get all the oil out of the pan that would normally come out with the regular drain plug and is really not something you want to mess with as a point of failure.
I did the same as N7 with the Fumoto valve. I lift the front end up a bit to make more room to work under there, The small bit the threads of the valve extend into the pan might keep 2 or 3 ounces of old oil in there over pulling the drain plug. I change the oil frequency enough (5-7000mi) with synthetic that I wish that little bit was enough to make it on my “things to worry about” list.
 
Don't you still need a pan for the oil filter? I have a Fumoto, but don't use jack or ramps, and I drain the oil into a pan.
 
I don't want to give them any reason to try...

You can read the threads here all day long and you won't find any instance of a warranty being deigned because someone did their own oil changes. None.
 
That valve does not get all the oil out of the pan that would normally come out with the regular drain plug and is really not something you want to mess with as a point of failure.

The small amount of oil left in the pan from an incomplete draining cause by the valve isn't going to hurt anything. There's much more oil than that left in the engine elsewhere when the oil is changed.

That said, I don't like those valves myself and would never use one. It's not like it's hard to use an Allen wrench to remove the oil plug.

True, the valve saves time, no worries, I can wait the extra 3 mins.
 
that filter isn't anywhere close to having a restriction or bypass.
I agree 100% I was surprised at how clean it is after 15000 miles and a fair amount of dirt roads. People say turbos need to be changed really often but my turbo must suck less than most :)
 
The small amount of oil left in the pan from an incomplete draining cause by the valve isn't going to hurt anything. There's much more oil than that left in the engine elsewhere when the oil is changed.

That said, I don't like those valves myself and would never use one. It's not like it's hard to use an Allen wrench to remove the oil plug.

True, the valve saves time, no worries, I can wait the extra 3 mins.
yup according to Mazda about a quart of used oil is left in the engine....
 
Don't you still need a pan for the oil filter? I have a Fumoto, but don't use jack or ramps, and I drain the oil into a pan.

Loosen the filter a bit, then fit a sandwich bag over the filter and unscrew it more, until the oil starts spilling out. The bag will catch most, if not all of the oil, and then you can spin off the filter, close the bag, and recycle it with the rest of your used oil.

Another alternative is a wide-mouth plastic cup, like a red Solo cup. Loosen the filter with the cup, catch the oil that spills out, then fully unscrew the filter with the cup.

Then there are products like these:

And other 3D printed solutions that could probably be found on Thingiverse.
 
It's more the ease of (and time saving of) doing an oil change without any cleanup. Including skipping the oil catch pan.

And what about the filter?

If done right, there's little to no cleanup needed even without the valve.

YMMV
 
My friend swears by the Fumoto valve but I've been trying to convince myself of a reason to use it. Having the valve would make it easy to drain obviously. Both methods involve some type of mess. The valve probably provides a tidier stream of oil? I don't know. I think if I put more miles on my cars where I'm doing an oil change every 2-3 months then maybe it would be nice. I'm doing them maybe once every 5 months. I'm not dissing the Fumoto though. I think if you were doing a lot of changes they make sense.
 
My friend swears by the Fumoto valve but I've been trying to convince myself of a reason to use it. Having the valve would make it easy to drain obviously. Both methods involve some type of mess. The valve probably provides a tidier stream of oil? I don't know. I think if I put more miles on my cars where I'm doing an oil change every 2-3 months then maybe it would be nice. I'm doing them maybe once every 5 months. I'm not dissing the Fumoto though. I think if you were doing a lot of changes they make sense.
When those types of valves were introduced many years ago, they hung down much lower and there were many reports of them busting off or busting the cast oil pans due to reduced ground clearance. Oil pan designs have changed over the years and it looks like the current Fumoto design has improved as well.

Still not for me.
 
My friend swears by the Fumoto valve but I've been trying to convince myself of a reason to use it. Having the valve would make it easy to drain obviously. Both methods involve some type of mess. The valve probably provides a tidier stream of oil? I don't know. I think if I put more miles on my cars where I'm doing an oil change every 2-3 months then maybe it would be nice. I'm doing them maybe once every 5 months. I'm not dissing the Fumoto though. I think if you were doing a lot of changes they make sense.
Imagine holding an empty 5 qt jug up to the valve and flipping it open with the other. No catch pan and no splashes. Good luck replicating that with the standard pan bolt. 😉
 
Imagine holding an empty 5 qt jug up to the valve and flipping it open with the other. No catch pan and no splashes. Good luck replicating that with the standard pan bolt. 😉
they going to keep arguing with you no matter how right you are :).
 
Imagine holding an empty 5 qt jug up to the valve and flipping it open with the other. No catch pan and no splashes. Good luck replicating that with the standard pan bolt. 😉

The only way to be able to hold a 5 qt jug right up to the valve would be if you had the car sitting way high on jackstands, on tall ramps, or to have the car on a lift. The lift is out for most of us but jackstands and ramps will work of course.

I personally don't like to raise the car that high on stands if I don't have to, in fact, when I change the oil in the CX I just pull the car onto my homemade ramps (raises the front by ~3"), and all is well.

full
 
Last edited:
Back