Protege5 Overheated, need help with the repair

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2003 Protege5
Hello everyone. I have been looking to get myself a Mazda Protege5 as a first car (and hopefully later on project car) since my friend let me drive his and I absolutely loved the car. Couple of months after he let me drive it his 2003 Mazda Protege5 overheated on a highway. His mechanic checked the car and said that the engine skipped time, possibly warped the cylinder head and most likely blown a head gasket. The quote was around $2500 and my friend decided that there’s no point in him trying to fix that car, but he knew that I really wanted it and other than that overheating the car was in pretty good condition, so he gave it to me to fix it and keep it. Before I have never attempted to do anything with cars. The car didn’t start when I got it, so I fixed the timing and the car still wouldn’t start. Than I replaced the ignition coils with a new set. The car still doesn’t start. The battery is a little old, but even when I tried jump starting the car, it would crank but not start. I also can’t hear the fuel pump priming when I put the ignition switch on the “ON” setting. I am trying to keep the budget of this repair as low as possible but definitely not going to give up because although it doesn’t drive... or start, I already have a connection with the car. So any help would be appreciated.
Thank You.
P.S. I’m attaching an image of the engine bay if that will help, thank you very much.
89DFE7E2-B052-4078-9162-6B3D6DA8F672.jpeg
 
His mechanic checked the car and said that the engine skipped time, possibly warped the cylinder head and most likely blown a head gasket. The quote was around $2500 and my friend decided that there’s no point in him trying to fix

If that's what a mechanic said... then the best (and cheapest) way to get it moving again is to replace the head gasket, or the entire motor.. yourself. Both not easy for a beginner to tackle.

IF it has skipped a timing tooth, the head gasket is blown and is warped there's no point trying to fix that motor. Replacement is the way to go.

BTW, how did you fix the timing?
 
If that's what a mechanic said... then the best (and cheapest) way to get it moving again is to replace the head gasket, or the entire motor.. yourself. Both not easy for a beginner to tackle.

IF it has skipped a timing tooth, the head gasket is blown and is warped there's no point trying to fix that motor. Replacement is the way to go.

BTW, how did you fix the timing?
Hello, thank you for the reply. I fixed timing by taking off the timing belt and realigning the camshafts and the crankshaft.
 
Hello, thank you for the reply. I fixed timing by taking off the timing belt and realigning the camshafts and the crankshaft.
If it skipped timing, how many times did you rotate TDC for #1 cylinder? When timed right it should look like this. I and E facing each other, and the Crank key way at 12 o'clock. #1 cylinder at the highest point (TDC)
Cam Shaft timing.jpg


Crank shaft.jpg
 
..., and the Crank key way at 12 o'clock. #1 cylinder at the highest point (TDC)

There's a notch in the crank gear that shows TDC.






IIRC, the notch doesn't line up exactly with the keyway.
 
Check your engine fuse in the driver's side footwell.
If it's blown, your ECU shuts down and you get no spark.

 
I have done the timing referring to the workshop manual. The position of camshafts and crankshaft is like on the diagrams and the pictures that y’all provided. I haven’t checked the engine fuse, but I’ll make sure to do that ASAP. Also my relay ports are dirty (as shown in the picture below), is that normal?
 

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Yes, that's normal.
There's a lot of power and heat running through the fuse box and they have been known to burn out and the fuse box needs to be replaced.
Dielectric grease helps to keep the contacts from corroding.
 
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Check for spark.
Make sure your plugs are firing.

Keep in mind that if your head is warped, the engine simply may not run.

You may be able to get a used head from a wrecker along with a new head gasket and be able to get it running for cheap.
You don't need a new or rebuilt head, just a used one that isn't warped.
 
Do a compression test.
The head gasket could be leaking so badly that you're losing engine compression.
The engine won't start if the compression is too low.
(Our engine is the right-hand column.)



If the gasket is leaking, the combustion chambers, oil passages, and engine coolant can all be leaking into each others systems that are supposed to be sealed from each other.
 
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Keep your battery charged up.
The compression test needs to be done at the proper starter motor RPMs.


 
Make sure you remove and replace the head bolts in the proper order and torque them properly.

This is critical. It's the most important torque spec. on the entire car.





You will be removing and replacing many components to do this and you will probably need many more gaskets and seals.

 
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Would you recommend just trying to get a new head or try to resurface the old one? Also, would the 2002 Protege5 service manual work for the 2003 car?
 
Your old head may not be warped (but it most likely is).
Getting it inspected will let you know.
I don't know how much it costs to inspect or resurface the head.
A used head may be cheaper, as long as your sure it's not warped as well which may be why the donor car ended up at the wrecker.

The 2002 Protege5 service manual will work for your 2003.
The engines are the same.
 
Do you think this kind of kit will do it?
 

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Do you think this kind of kit will do it?

That looks like a complete kit and should cover everything.
You may run into some problems and need more parts but that kit appears to have all the gaskets and bolts required.
 
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