Protege 5 timing belt

I just may wait awhile then before I do my timing belt, it hit 60K few weeks ago but was contemplating but I'll probably change it around 80K to be on the safe side.

I need to change my tires and fix the broken CV joint...
 
So it is non interference? You guys are confusing me. I have read for the longest time that it is non interference and now all of the sudden that is wrong??
 
TheMAN said:
I just changed my timing belt a couple of days ago.... now ask yourself if it's interference or not when I turned the cams separately over and over again (after I removed the timing belt) to check the valve lash and the engine is running A-OK after I put everything back together

Care to write a "how to" to benifit those of us who wish to learn?:)
 
TheMAN said:
I just changed my timing belt a couple of days ago.... now ask yourself if it's interference or not when I turned the cams separately over and over again (after I removed the timing belt) to check the valve lash and the engine is running A-OK after I put everything back together

Now please forgive me folks b/c I am a newbie here and not that familiar w/ Mazdas... but not a newbie to taking apart a 4 cyl motor.

TheMAN, a question for you. It seems this trick "working" (AKA you have no damage after turning the cams independently but not the crank) is soleley dependent upon where the crank/pistons happened to be, and is by itself not a solid test for intereference or not. Critical information is - was the crank at TDC?

Most interference engines only "interfere" for a very smal ldistance anyway, not like 1/2 the piston trabel or anything. So lets say that you DO have an intereference engine, and the crank is not completely at TDC - so maybe every piston is at 1/2 travel and so not is at the top (or bottom). If you do this trick, you will not colide, valves still pass overt he piston heads. Now take that same motor and move it to *exactly* TDC on teh crank, and do it - Crunch time.
For example the 22re in my 4Runner is interference - but guys often advance the cam timing as much as 5 deg w/o collision issues. There is actually quite alot of leway here.

Funny story. Replaced head gasket in my Tracer. FYI, interference motor. Would not start afterwards, but cranked fine. Realized later that I was not careful puting it together and had the cam-to-crank timing exactly 180 deg out. Actuall ya buddy was involved too. At first we were freaked out, sure it had junked it. Then thought about it a few minutes, fixed it, and it fired up. Runs like a champ.
Sicne it was exactly 180 out (and SOHC), no collisions occured. Cool.
 
How-to for replacing timing belt or how-to for testing whether the 2.0 dohc is interference or not?
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
How-to for replacing timing belt or how-to for testing whether the 2.0 dohc is interference or not?


Non Interference part - I am as confused as a dog with two peckers and only one fire hidrant.
 
60,500 miles on my timing belt........40K to go!

i have a feeling the P5 will be gone before that happens :'(.........

-R
 
RatLabGuy said:
Now please forgive me folks b/c I am a newbie here and not that familiar w/ Mazdas... but not a newbie to taking apart a 4 cyl motor.

TheMAN, a question for you. It seems this trick "working" (AKA you have no damage after turning the cams independently but not the crank) is soleley dependent upon where the crank/pistons happened to be, and is by itself not a solid test for intereference or not. Critical information is - was the crank at TDC?

Most interference engines only "interfere" for a very smal ldistance anyway, not like 1/2 the piston trabel or anything. So lets say that you DO have an intereference engine, and the crank is not completely at TDC - so maybe every piston is at 1/2 travel and so not is at the top (or bottom). If you do this trick, you will not colide, valves still pass overt he piston heads. Now take that same motor and move it to *exactly* TDC on teh crank, and do it - Crunch time.
For example the 22re in my 4Runner is interference - but guys often advance the cam timing as much as 5 deg w/o collision issues. There is actually quite alot of leway here.

Funny story. Replaced head gasket in my Tracer. FYI, interference motor. Would not start afterwards, but cranked fine. Realized later that I was not careful puting it together and had the cam-to-crank timing exactly 180 deg out. Actuall ya buddy was involved too. At first we were freaked out, sure it had junked it. Then thought about it a few minutes, fixed it, and it fired up. Runs like a champ.
Sicne it was exactly 180 out (and SOHC), no collisions occured. Cool.

don't insult my intelligence... I've installed these upgraded camshafts when my motor had 20000 miles, and the crank WAS at TDC... I spun them 'round and 'round again... my motor still works perfectly... is it interference? I'm not going to even bother answering that *again*
 
Protege52003 said:
60,500 miles on my timing belt........40K to go!

i have a feeling the P5 will be gone before that happens :'(.........

-R

you change the timing belt at 60k
following "schedule A" in the owner's manual is only done if you drive like a pussy in the country
 
The Mazda FS-DE is a NON-INTERFERENCE motor. Please accept this from someone who has built 4 from the ground up and swapped out cylinder heads more than a dozen times. I've probably changed timing belts more than all the MSP owners on this forum combined. I've never seen one cracked or damaged on any of my motors so they are obviously a lot stronger than everyone thinks. If you break the timing belt the car will cut off and the worst thing that could happen would be the plastic covers over the belt getting damaged. In my observations there is a 75% chance your motor will blow up or need rebuilding for some other reason before the timing belt breaks anyway. Just wait till then.
 
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