Preparing to fix my leaking CX-5 transmission pan

[bluefire_xl]

Hi,
I am preparing to DIY my transmission pan leak. This has been removed 2 years ago and it seems to leak still. I got all the parts and just wanted to ensure how to do some steps.

1. Can I remove the bolts on the tranny dipstick from below? or it has to be on the top. hoping I don't need to remove the airbox to access it.
2. In case I can work without removing the airbox to fill the new oil on the tranny. Can a long funnel type fit and be used to fill?
3. Will the tranny pan loosen once the bolts are out? Do I need to tap it with something?

Any other tips are appreciated.

 

[ruthrj]

1. It’s going to be easiest to remove from above.
2. You won’t want to use a large or long funnel. Not enough room. Instead, you’ll want to use a funnel and hose combination if you keep the airbox in place. The dipstick can be removed and the transmission can be filled with the air box in place using a hose to fill.
3. Probably not. If sealant was used instead of a silicone gasket, you’ll have to work your way around the perimeter of the pan to break the RTV seal. I used an oil pan separator tool. If a silicone gasket was used the pan will come off with the bolts.

 

[madar]

A long funnel works fine from the top. Here's what I used.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-long-neck-black-funnel-66479.html

I could've sworn there was also some talk about using new pan bolts somewhere on here. You might want to try new ones since you've developed a leak. Somebody fact check me. There's plenty of info on this forum about people dropping the pan and doing a service. Do some homework before you do this, it'll make your job easier.

 

[bluefire_xl]

1. It’s going to be easiest to remove from above.
2. You won’t want to use a large or long funnel. Not enough room. Instead, you’ll want to use a funnel and hose combination if you keep the airbox in place. The dipstick can be removed and the transmission can be filled with the air box in place using a hose to fill.
3. Probably not. If sealant was used instead of a silicone gasket, you’ll have to work your way around the perimeter of the pan to break the RTV seal. I used an oil pan separator tool. If a silicone gasket was used the pan will come off with the bolts.

Thanks for the feedback. Do i need to have like an extender to my wrench to reach the bolt from above?

The gray sealant from Mazda was used last time

 

[bluefire_xl]

A long funnel works fine from the top. Here's what I used.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-long-neck-black-funnel-66479.html

I could've sworn there was also some talk about using new pan bolts somewhere on here. You might want to try new ones since you've developed a leak. Somebody fact check me. There's plenty of info on this forum about people dropping the pan and doing a service. Do some homework before you do this, it'll make your job easier.

Thanks for the feedback. I got these long funnels as well. Not sure if the have an 18 inch. Will have to check.

I did bought a new set of pan bolts just in case

 

[theblooms]

Everyone acts like removing the air box is some huge chore. it's only the bottom half you remove, not the whole thing. To get it out, there are two 10mm bolts on the top of the core support, they're right there and beyond obvious. Then unclip the top from the bottom the same way you check your air filter, then bottom half lifts right out. This is literally a 45 second operation.

 

[yrwei52]

Hi,
I am preparing to DIY my transmission pan leak. This has been removed 2 years ago and it seems to leak still. I got all the parts and just wanted to ensure how to do some steps.

1. Can I remove the bolts on the tranny dipstick from below? or it has to be on the top. hoping I don't need to remove the airbox to access it.
2. In case I can work without removing the airbox to fill the new oil on the tranny. Can a long funnel type fit and be used to fill?
3. Will the tranny pan loosen once the bolts are out? Do I need to tap it with something?

Any other tips are appreciated.

Firstly you can read the entire thread by @digbicks1234:

2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

He had similar problem like you after put the ATF pan back with RTV sealer. The key to me is you want to be very careful around the bolt holes while applying the RTV making sure there’s no excessive RTV in the hole and got on to the bolt itself when you screw it in, and make sure to clean up thoroughly the bolt thread with no leftover RTV in there.

Here’s another good thread by @PatrickGSR94 using the RTV to seal the pan:

2014 CX5 Tune-Up items to replace?

And:

Guide ATF Drain/Fill


Based on Mazda Workshop Manual, we should apply RTV on both sides of mating surfaces, but I doubt anyone has done that way so far:

Most would agree accessing the ATF dipstick from the topside is much easier. If you have a 2.5L NA you should be able to sway away the entire air box or just the top part with the wire attached to prevent the error code with engine running.

In addition to the funnel mentioned by @madar above, @Kedis82ZE8 suggested this small funnels with a long tube:

ATF...Change or not?


You can also get an oil pan separator tool like this:

Guide 2016~2021 CX-9 DIY Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill + Filter Change

 

[ruthrj]

^that just about sums everything up, lol! The funnel recommended by Kedis is the one I’d use if I didn’t want to remove the air box. Like blooms suggested, I remove the airbox to do the work. I didn’t use an extension for the dipstick bolt. I used a long socket.

 

[bluefire_xl]

Thanks everyone! Appreciate all your feedback.

 

[yrwei52]

Thanks everyone! Appreciate all your feedback.

Keep us posted, especially if you’d try to apply the RTV on both sides of mating surfaces as directed by workshop manual.

 

[cz5gt]

I saw that in Europe one could buy a real (aftermarket) gasket for the pan. This saves lots of trouble working with the rtv.
Is it something we have here?
or rtv is the only option in US

 

[ruthrj]

I saw that in Europe one could buy a real (aftermarket) gasket for the pan. This saves lots of trouble working with the rtv.
Is it something we have here?
or rtv is the only option in US

I believe the WIX filter comes with a gasket along with a few others.

 

[Jmaz]

I don't know what it is, but it seems that factory installed transmission pan gaskets take a long time to leak but replacement gaskets leak after a year or two and 're-snugging' the bolts doesn't help much for long. That's why I would be inclined to go with sealant. Anybody share the same experience?

 

[madar]

I don't know what it is, but it seems that factory installed transmission pan gaskets take a long time to leak but replacement gaskets leak after a year or two and 're-snugging' the bolts doesn't help much for long. That's why I would be inclined to go with sealant. Anybody share the same experience?

Never had that problem in the past with replacement gaskets. Used to get mine from a local Auto parts store (Big A), they used to advertise "self-sealing" gasket on the box, then eventually I got a silicone in steel frame gasket (reusable). This for a 1997 Plymouth Voyager. Haven't done my CX5 yet. But you have to make sure both surfaces are spotlessly clean, and torque the bolts evenly all the way around.

 

[yrwei52]

I don't know what it is, but it seems that factory installed transmission pan gaskets take a long time to leak but replacement gaskets leak after a year or two and 're-snugging' the bolts doesn't help much for long. That's why I would be inclined to go with sealant. Anybody share the same experience?

Yes, same experience here when I use the ATF pan gasket, especially those cork gasket.

 

[yrwei52]

I believe the WIX filter comes with a gasket along with a few others.

Be aware that the pan gasket comes with the WIX transmission filter cartridge may not fit on newer CX-5’s.

I use Wix filters, which includes a gasket. I use the gasket every time, and I've never had a leak.

Wix part number on the filter for my 2013 CX-5 with the 2.0 is WL10379.

Used that same filter today on my 2020 2.5L NA Touring.
Two holes on the gasket were about 3/4" off - couldn't use the gasket. That had me a bit pissed. Ended up using $15 tube Permatex from my local parts store - the price of the RTV was nearly as much as the filter and gasket, which had me more pissed.

 

[bluefire_xl]

Everyone acts like removing the air box is some huge chore. it's only the bottom half you remove, not the whole thing. To get it out, there are two 10mm bolts on the top of the core support, they're right there and beyond obvious. Then unclip the top from the bottom the same way you check your air filter, then bottom half lifts right out. This is literally a 45 second operation.

When removing the air box. Do i need to remove the map sensor? i am hesitant removing this one. Or should I remove the hose instead by loosening the clamp for me to be able to set it aside?

 

[theblooms]

Absolutely not. Completely unnecessary. All you do is remove the two bolts on the core support, pop the clips that hole the air filter, remove the air filter, then pull straight up on the bottom half of the air box. It pops right out

 

[bluefire_xl]

Absolutely not. Completely unnecessary. All you do is remove the two bolts on the core support, pop the clips that hole the air filter, remove the air filter, then pull straight up on the bottom half of the air box. It pops right out

I see. So i dont need to remove anything of the top half. I though I need to remove the hose or map sensor to set it aside to have more space to remove the bottom out. Thanks!

 

[theblooms]

I'll probably make and post a video of how easy this is when I got nothing else to do.