Porting heads, how-to diy

ddogg777

Member
:
2002 Yellow P5
Is there a thread or website that I can research about porting the FS-DE engine head? I have an extra motor and would like to do it myself with my dremel.
 
you're gonna want an air powered die-grinder... your dremel would never survive.
 
ryan, CCNA? going for your CCNP anytime?

I have a bunch of friends here who are techs for various companies, closest one works for Amex =)

Not to get off topic, I dont think a port and polish is something you would do yourself. Unless you own your own machining shop and have years of knowledge to do it right.

Since you said u were planning on using a dremel I would bring it to a shop, not to be nasty or anything, but I would never attempt this on my own either.
 
if done incorrectly....and the margin for error is small...you can actually ruin the flow of air and create a negative effect.
 
i'm sorry but a port and polish isn't just taking out excess metal. you must properly map the flow properties of the head first. this is not a DIY mod!!

contact local engine builders and talk to them about a price etc.
 
DO NOT PORT AND POLISH this particular head. It flows very well from the factory and has nice raised ports. The manifold is the restriction not the head. I PMed you with more info ;)
 
Perf is right..I put on a OBX Header..and there was a nice gain all through out the power band...

Chas
 
the most I would ever do to it is port-match, and polish.. you don't wanna take any material out of really
 
POrt and Polish is good!!!!

/members/green MP3/dsc00573.jpg Here is living proof.


I agree that the manifold is a big restriction this is why mine now has no internal throttles, 4 big holes instead of 8 little ones and a bigger throttle body. all as you can see was ported cut ans polished but so was the head since the actual ports are too Small
if you really want power.... the intake valves are also too small this is why i got mines ovesize and the car runs really good now. i am working wih the fuel management though cause i got too much air now and not enough fuel but this will make this engine fly.......
Green

See my Story here http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=29631&perpage=15&pagenumber=7
 
here is the head

Look how the valves barely made it to the chamber. They are right at the edge. they are big and also very thin on the other side that i call the trumpet, so air starts flowing as soon as it barely opens/members/green MP3/dsc00579.jpg
 
Cool guys, thanks for the info. I have a spare engine I am about to take apart and I wasn't sure what I could do myself and what I shouldn't do...
 
agreed - done P&P yourself...one cylinder might be making more power than the next and the margin for error is too small....but perfworks saying dont port the head because it's good enough? i certainly dont agree to that!
 
Damn, Green... What did you see for gains after removing the VICS butterflies and cutting out the runner seperators? I imagine you lost a crazy amount of low end torque, but surely gained a bit on the high end, eh? Any dyno sheets?
 
twilightprotege said:
....but perfworks saying dont port the head because it's good enough? i certainly dont agree to that!

I think that this has more to do with the texture in the head. You don't want the the inside of the head to be so smooth that when fuel is injected, it slides down into the bottom and puddles up. The texture inside allows the air-flow to help atomize any fuel that may end up on the surface of the port. A port in the head that is too smooth would help any fuel that gets on the surface slide together into a puddle. You do however want the inside of the intake manifold to be as smooth as possible.

I have an extra head up in the attic that I need to get some work done on. (hmm)
 
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same concept as why a golf ball has dimples... but I do like polishing in the combustion chamber. completely smooth chamber helps defy detonation.
 
WOW

You guys just keep amazing the heck out of me. it's unbelieveble
the knowledge you all have.


YES flat_black i LOST SOME torque but not low end rather mid torque. Remember that the runners that go to the ports are slim enought to re-gain pressure and the only reason i lost some torque is Cauze i do not have enought fuel now, i haven't bought my press. reg. yet and i really need it; plus the computer does not "open" and forget about the O2 sensors till it hits 4500 rpms , this is when the engine revs up like a crazy horse. orcourse if i rev up the engine at the start line then it picks up speed really fast but my tires may not last as long :P.
This restriction that i took out was the best thing that my engine could of gotten but since i went all the way with the port matching and all that well let's just say i need FUELLLLLLLL!!! But i am working on that. The intake alone in a non prep. head would make the engine breath better and respond much quicker thus more HP & more fuel efficent under normal driving cond. also it makes you feel nice when you press on the acc. "it actually moves" lol.

LinuxRacr very impressive post
;)

you are right about the too much porting in the intake section(no texture at all is no good) so i left some as you see in the picture al thought the holes are much bigger now. you really impressed me dude, way to go i thought i was the only one who knew that !!! JUst kidding. you are the man though.....
/members/green MP3/dsc00574.jpg

You too RyanJayG
you are very informed and smart.
 
aka turbulence

LinuxRacr said:
I think that this has more to do with the texture in the head. You don't want the the inside of the head to be so smooth that when fuel is injected, it slides down into the bottom and puddles up. The texture inside allows the air-flow to help atomize any fuel that may end up on the surface of the port. A port in the head that is too smooth would help any fuel that gets on the surface slide together into a puddle. You do however want the inside of the intake manifold to be as smooth as possible.

I have an extra head up in the attic that I need to get some work done on. (hmm)
 

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