I haven't posted for a while mostly because my car is a rusty turd and I only work on it when it's screaming for help.(although I took it in for it's annual chemotherapy treatment. (rustproofing))
My front bearings started to roar again so I knew I had to replace them.
I went with the best this time (SKF. Fully sealed).
I propped up the knuckle and hammered the inner race to get the spindle out.
That went well and even moved the inner race a bit before the bearings gave out.
(I'm going to try to hammer gently on the other side to see if I can push the inner race right off.)
I hammered a chisel in and got it to move some more.
Then I put my bearing puller on and finally got it off after a bit of frustration.
I didn't want to grind it off like they say in the FSM.
This is my socket set.
It's not metric but it doesn't matter much with big sockets.
That's my bearing with the socket I used to pound out the hub inside of it.
The big socket on the right is the one I used to remove the outer race and the socket on the left was for my axle nut.
This is my socket set.
It's not metric but it doesn't matter much with big sockets.
That's my bearing with the socket I used to pound out the hub inside of it.
The big socket on the right is the one I used to remove the outer race and the socket on the left was for my axle nut.
I'm gunna have to get me a set, along with a 1/2" and 3/8" sets because my sockets like to grow legs and wander off lol. I honestly didn't think heating and cooling the parts would have that much of an impact on install, you actually make it sound feasible to do the bearings without a press
I think a big part of it working even better this time was that I ground down all the high spots (nicks and gouges and such) with my rotary tool.
I used a small straight edge to feel for the high spots.
If you get a socket set or two make sure they're 6 point sockets.
The 12 point sockets strip bolt heads really easily.