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P0660 P2009 P0171 Protege5 Codes

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
this is how the tube looks right now.
Yeaah...that's not how it looks on my car. The zip-tie idea is not bad at all, but it may not be a real solution if that tube has been replaced and it's the wrong inner diameter. Definitely worth a try though, at least temporarily. I honestly don't know where you'd buy a replacement OEM or similar tube for that.
 
Yeaah...that's not how it looks on my car. The zip-tie idea is not bad at all, but it may not be a real solution if that tube has been replaced and it's the wrong inner diameter. Definitely worth a try though, at least temporarily. I honestly don't know where you'd buy a replacement OEM or similar tube for that.
whoever changed it probably couldn't find one that fit. this car had 4 owners before me soooo i wouldnt be surprised if someone messed with it.
 
whoever changed it probably couldn't find one that fit. this car had 4 owners before me soooo i wouldnt be surprised if someone messed with it.
With the rubber band around the tube the fluctuating idle seems to be gone now :) I dont have a code reader to clear the codes yet, but ill order one.
 
Ok - I took my upper support bracket off to get some good sensor photos for future reference.
(Oops - Hit the wrong button and will post photos on my next attempt).
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I got some pictures...
I just got to this conversation.

20210823_182831.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
The above solenoid is the fuel pressure regulator control solenoid.

I believe it has a brass nipple because it is working with the fuel system and is better built but it can cost upwards of $100.

The solenoids with all plastic nipples perform the same function and plug in the same way (except for moving the air filter to the other port) but may not be as reliable.

It's not a big deal, you will throw a code if it fails, and won't be able to restart your car when it's hot.
You'll have to let it cool down.



That vacuum tube has probably been replaced and is not the right inside diameter as mentioned.

You could even clean up the nipple and inside of the tube and glue it on with crazy glue.

(or a zip tie, or small clamp, or replace the tube)

It may be metric sizing, and that replacement tube may be SAE and slightly bigger.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
With the rubber band around the tube the fluctuating idle seems to be gone now :) I dont have a code reader to clear the codes yet, but ill order one.

The codes will clear themselves after a couple of drive cycles, then you don't have to go through all the "system readiness" crap after rubbing your codes.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Just drive it and be happy that you did it !! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Make sure your vacuum tube doesn't fall off in the mean time.

(I can fix just about anything with duct tape, coat hangers, and glue. Lol)
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I'm confused now.

Where's your intake tube ??

Did you remove it ??

This is what my DD looks like...


20210823_185854.jpg



These are your pictures...


Screenshot_20210823-185643_Samsung Internet.jpg


Screenshot_20210823-190257_Samsung Internet.jpg




I don't what's going on.
You don't appear to have an intake or air cleaner.

You might be sucking air from your engine bay directly into your intake manifold.

The MAF sensor is in the intake tube.
I don't know what's going on, unless you removed your intake tube but you don't need to do that to replace any of those three solenoids.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I haven’t had it for very long bought it from a shady used car dealership. If you know anything about these codes and how to fix them or if they need to be fixed that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


I'm thinking that that shady dealership may have removed a bunch of stuff and got it to run (somehow?) and sold it to you ?

How much did you pay ?
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
I paid 2800 for it, do you want more pictures of the engine bay?
its a 2003 with like 148k miles.
is yours a 2003 as well?

2800 with that mileage is pretty good if it's got a clean title and the body is fairly clean and that solenoid was your only issue. I bought mine with 143k for a little less but it needed some mechanical work which I did myself.

I don't what's going on.
You don't appear to have an intake or air cleaner.

You might be sucking air from your engine bay directly into your intake manifold.

PCB, I'm not sure what you're seeing that's causing concern. I didn't see anything immediately wrong in his photos, though to be fair I didn't look too closely. That little metal nubbin that sticks up out of the intake should have a hose on it but I think that's it.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
2800 with that mileage is pretty good if it's got a clean title and the body is fairly clean and that solenoid was your only issue. I bought mine with 143k for a little less but it needed some mechanical work which I did myself.


I agree.
I paid $6,300 CAD for my car in 2009.
It was all rusty when I bought it.
(that's normal for the northeast salt belt)

It's now worth about $200 as scrap metal unless I spend about $2000 having metal welded in.


PCB, I'm not sure what you're seeing that's causing concern. I didn't see anything immediately wrong in his photos, though to be fair I didn't look too closely. That little metal nubbin that sticks up out of the intake should have a hose on it but I think that's it.


I was mistaken.
I thought flunky was posting a picture of his engine bay the way he bought it.
(I thought it had no intake.??)



I threw the PRC solenoid valve code about two years ago.

I replaced the solenoid with the one from my parts car in about 10 minutes.

I didn't remove the intake tube.

I popped the code and fixed it so fast that I forgot the details.
(That is the valve that had the brass nipple.)
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
If you've already replaced all three solenoids and everything is working, then just leave everything be.
But Don't Throw Out Your Old Brass Solenoid.

You can use it to replace any of those three new solenoids if you throw another code and they crap out.

It's the heavy duty brute and it wasn't throwing a code, so it was working.

Keep an eye out for this code or if your car won't restart if it is warmed up/hot.


20210823_220244.jpg



All that solenoid does is tell the fuel pressure regulator to increase fuel pressure for 100 seconds to restart a hot engine.

You might be stranded in a parking lot while your engine cools down but its not a safety concern.
(don't kill your battery or starter motor if your car won't hot start.)