Oil Change

The CX-9 has a cast and machined oil pan. not the typical stamped steel type, so the need for a crushable washer is no more.

The pan design has little to do with it, it's just an engineering choice.

Hondas have cast and machined aluminum oil pans and use crush washers on their drain plugs. Heck, they use crush washers on ALL their plugs, drain, fill, check, you name it. The crush washer approach is, apparently, a Japanese preference.

These engines, the 3.5 and 3.7, are Ford designed and they've simply chosen to go the reusable soft seal route on the drain plug, which seems to be an American engineering preference.

The soft seal is probably a little more forgiving of being overtightened because it will give a bit more than a crush washer.

Ted
 
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The pan design has little to do with it, it's just an engineering choice.

Honda's have cast and machined aluminum oil pans and use crush washers on their drain plugs. Heck, they use crush washers on ALL their plugs, drain, fill, check, you name it. The crush washer approach is, apparently, a Japanese preference.

These engines, the 3.5 and 3.7, are Ford designed and they've simply chosen to go the reusable soft seal route on the drain plug, which seems to be an American engineering preference.

The soft seal is probably a little more forgiving of being overtightened because it will give a bit more than a crush washer.

Ted

+1

Good explanation to counter the old wives tales spread throughout these forums.
 
Is there any sort of underbody splash shield to remove before changing the oil?
 
I have been using the Motorcraft FL400S (Ford) with Castrol Semi Synthetic 5W-20. Below are comparative pics of the stock filter and the FL400S

IMG_4532.jpg


IMG_4531.jpg
 
I have been using the Motorcraft FL400S (Ford) with Castrol Semi Synthetic 5W-20. Below are comparative pics of the stock filter and the FL400S

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Judging by the dents in the base of the old filter casing it looks like you had the same challenge getting the factory filter off that I did. Mine was on way way too tight.

I see there are some differences between the factory piece and the FL400S you had. The FL400S I bought at Wal-Mart was identical to the factory filter.

Ted
 
Judging by the dents in the base of the old filter casing it looks like you had the same challenge getting the factory filter off that I did. Mine was on way way too tight.

I see there are some differences between the factory piece and the FL400S you had. The FL400S I bought at Wal-Mart was identical to the factory filter.

Ted

Yes, the original filter was a biatch to remove.

I bought mine from Advance Auto Parts. Maybe Motorcraft did a revision that consumers do not know of.
 
Just did my first change w/ Mobil1 5W20. I used the motorcraft FL400S filter too.
For the record, mine looked like the photo posted by waxip5. But then we live in the same county, but I bought mine at Wallymart. Either way, it worked fine. Wish this thing held 5 US quarts instead of 5.2q, it would be a lot easier to just buy one 5q jug. I wonder of other countries sell a 5L jug of oil instead. Then you would have some left over for topping off later, instead of having to buy an extra quart just to fill it. :)

Oh, and yeah, I crushed the factory filter some getting it off. Not the worst factory filter I have had to remove though. I got it with my old pair of oil filter pliers when I couldn't locate my socket. Once I had to resort to peircing one along the axis with a long screwdriver to torque it off...
 
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I am always leary of aluminum oil pans as I hear the horror stories of stripping them. I am one of those types who doesn't like crawling under a car with a torque wrench. Anyways, I think I am gonna pick me up a Fumuto valve for this so I don't have to worry about it. I put one on my other car and I love it. Also, less mess if you get it with the nipple. If anyone's interested, you can see them here:

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

Also, code "YM4" gets you 10% off.


Has anybody actually have tried using this? I was supposed to change the oil today, but I might have to defer it to next weekend and order this first.
 
The wife's CX9 has 1300+ miles and I've just finished changing the oil and filter. As some have said, the oem filter is a beast to remove. I used a K&N oil filter which has a 'thingie' at the end where I can use a regular 15mm wrench the next time I do this. I also installed the Fumoto quick oil change valve. I refilled it with Mobil 1 5w-20.

And I did this on a 100 degree day!. Time for a cold one.
 
The wife's CX9 has 1300+ miles and I've just finished changing the oil and filter. As some have said, the oem filter is a beast to remove. I used a K&N oil filter which has a 'thingie' at the end where I can use a regular 15mm wrench the next time I do this. I also installed the Fumoto quick oil change valve. I refilled it with Mobil 1 5w-20.

And I did this on a 100 degree day!. Time for a cold one.

I, too, purchased a Fumoto valve (with nipple and adapter for the recessed oil pan). I'll be installing it soon with my first oil change as I have only 500 miles on the factory break-in oil. Can't decide whether to do the 5W-20 Mobil 1 at 600 or 1,000 miles. I'm going with the Mobil 1 filter as well, and hoping the density of the synthetic filtering medium doesn't affect engine oil pressure too adversely.
 
I don't understand. Why are so many of you changing your oil so early? Is it a piece of mind thing, or do you think your motor will be damaged if you don't. Does everyone in the States change their oil every 1300-3000 miles?
 
I don't understand. Why are so many of you changing your oil so early? Is it a piece of mind thing, or do you think your motor will be damaged if you don't. Does everyone in the States change their oil every 1300-3000 miles?

I do an early oil change(at 1,000 miles) for the first time. I then do my succeeding oil changes at 5,000 miles. I also use Mobil1 on my cars, past and prresent. On my motorcyle, I do the first oil change at 600 miles and after 3,000 miles afterward. I use Amsoil on my Ducati.
 
I don't understand. Why are so many of you changing your oil so early? Is it a piece of mind thing, or do you think your motor will be damaged if you don't. Does everyone in the States change their oil every 1300-3000 miles?

Some people like to do their first oil change early--the thought here is that the original oil might have some metal fines, etc. Other people believe that the original oil should stay in 5000 miles, since it helps break in rubber rings, etc.

Personally, on my Audi I change my oil every 5000 miles, and that's only because it's turbo charged, otherwise I'd probably do it every 7500 miles. I use Mobil 1 synthetic, and have seen plenty of analysis of people who send their used oil to Blackstone Lab for analysis, and the oil looks perfect after 5000 miles. Heck, oil still looks good after almost 10,000 miles in many cases.

So for the CX-9, I'll only do it every 5000 miles.
 
Just out of interest, what is the service shedule for the CX9 in the US manual?

Over here our service manual states it is every 10,000km (which is 16,000miles) between oil changes.

My last car was a Ford 6cylinder Turbo and the shedule for oil changes was every 15,000km, but I used to halve that and use a high quality synthetic oil.
 
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You have the km/mile conversion backwards.

The manual says 7500 miles here unless you follow the 'premium' schedule which is designed to empty your wallet for no benefit.
 
You have the km/mile conversion backwards.

The manual says 7500 miles here unless you follow the 'premium' schedule which is designed to empty your wallet for no benefit.


Oh, how RED is my face?

I must have got up too early this morning and the coffee didnt have time to kick in(sssh)

Your absolutely right, and that would make my shedule service of 10,000km be equal to every 6,250miles, that sounds a bit better eh!
 
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