Oil Change

For anyone interested in a fumoto valve who has a 2007 CX-9 with the 3.5L engine...

After searching an speaking with the manufacturer, I've confirmed that you need the 107 valve, but no adapter. It seems that only the 3.7L on the 2008+ models have a recessed oil pan. Just wanted to save you guys the $6 I spent ordering incorrectly.
 
Rockadile said:
For anyone interested in a fumoto valve who has a 2007 CX-9 with the 3.5L engine...

After searching an speaking with the manufacturer, I've confirmed that you need the 107 valve, but no adapter. It seems that only the 3.7L on the 2008+ models have a recessed oil pan. Just wanted to save you guys the $6 I spent ordering incorrectly.
Click to expand...

Quickoildrainvalve.com (formerly FumotoValve.com) clearly states on the site that the adapter is required only with the recessed pan in the '08. I purchased the 107n in order to connect a flexible hose to the valve for a cleaner job. Clearance is not an issue in either case, the 107 pertrudes 1/2 inch more than the OE drain bolt head and the 107n pertrudes 1 1/8 inches beyond the OE head.
 
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badself said:
Quickoildrainvalve.com (formerly FumotoValve.com) clearly states on the site that the adapter is required only with the recessed pan in the '08. I purchased the 107n in order to connect a flexible hose to the valve for a cleaner job. Clearance is not an issue in either case, the 107 pertrudes 1/2 inch more than the OE drain bolt head and the 107n pertrudes 1 1/8 inches beyond the OE head.
Click to expand...

They've actually changed their wording, though it can still be a bit misleading. Prior to the change, they mentioned nothing about a 3.5L. I emailed them and they told me to get the 107 and the adapter. I then emailed the manufacturer and they told me they weren't sure if it was needed. Just wanted to give everyone a heads up.
 
Thanks for the tips guys, going to change the oil in our GT today and was wondering about the crush washer issue.

I picked up a WIX filter, anyone tried this one, I use them on my 3 GT and it works great.

3810_1.gif
 
brightwhite said:
Thanks for the tips guys, going to change the oil in our GT today and was wondering about the crush washer issue.

I picked up a WIX filter, anyone tried this one, I use them on my 3 GT and it works great.

3810_1.gif
Click to expand...

I really like Wix filters, they are a quality compromise to the more expensive K&N filter. Actually, I picked up 10 Mobil 1 filters and 50 quarts of Mobil 1 5w20 when Advance Auto had them on sale recently (one filter and five quarts for $26). I've heard Mobil 1 filters sometimes restrict oil pressure due to the synthetic filtering medium, so we'll see. But, given a choice, for the money, I'd use Wix. I would assume the Wix could go the distance with a 7,500 mile oil change interval using synthetic, because that's my intention.
 
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badself said:
I, too, purchased a Fumoto valve (with nipple and adapter for the recessed oil pan). I'll be installing it soon with my first oil change as I have only 500 miles on the factory break-in oil. Can't decide whether to do the 5W-20 Mobil 1 at 600 or 1,000 miles. I'm going with the Mobil 1 filter as well, and hoping the density of the synthetic filtering medium doesn't affect engine oil pressure too adversely.
Click to expand...

Finally installed the Fumoto valve, Mobil 1 5w-20, and Mobil 1 filter. My wife was away for three weeks for the birth of our twin grandkids, so the changeover from break-in oil to synthetic didn't happen till 2,150 miles.

Apparently, these Fumoto valves have sold over two million units without one reported failure. I fully expect it to last the life of the vehicle, and will never have to worry about stripping the oil pan threads. Well worth the $32 investment.

Next, I'm going to order the bodyside moldings from Sportwing. Basically, they're the cost of one paintless dent removal, and I hear Sportwing does a good paint match.
 
Just did first oil change

Did my first oil change at about 2600 miles. Used mobil 1 and motorcraft filter. Replaced drain plug with fumoto valve. I got the extender piece that it says is required for the '08. My pan doesn't seem to have a recessed drain hole though.

My oil pan must have a ton of rough edges on it. I came away with about 5 cuts/scratches after the oil change. I didn't feel anything sharp at the time but noticed when I washed up. Is everyone else's oil pan like this?
 
cccx9 said:
Did my first oil change at about 2600 miles. Used mobil 1 and motorcraft filter. Replaced drain plug with fumoto valve. I got the extender piece that it says is required for the '08. My pan doesn't seem to have a recessed drain hole though.

My oil pan must have a ton of rough edges on it. I came away with about 5 cuts/scratches after the oil change. I didn't feel anything sharp at the time but noticed when I washed up. Is everyone else's oil pan like this?
Click to expand...

Yes, if you look closely at the pan, there are rough "serrations" all over the outer surface; presumably, they are a by-product of the casting process. I guess it would add extra cost in material, machinery, and man-hours to machine smooth the entire outer surface of the pan.

Look at the bright side. Now that you have installed the Fumoto Valve, you won't be getting your bare hands anywhere near the surface of the pan on your future oil changes. The valve with the nipple is the way to go, since you can run a hose straight from the valve to your container.
 
I use the WIX filers solely on all my cars, they are a superior filter to most. I mail order them from www.fleetfilter.com IF you buy a few at a time it is really inexpensive. I am SO EXCITED to hear that the FL400S is the right filter, as this is the same filter for my Ranger and my Expedition. I now have ALL 3 vehicles using the same filter. AWESOME.

I will probably just order me up a dozen filters. I generally use Motorcraft 5w20 Synthetic blend, but I think I will go to a full synth for the CX9.
 
How much does the dealership typically charge for an oil change?

Self-change looks like it would be about $45-50 in parts for oil (6 qts) + filter. Assuming you trust your dealership putting in the right oil and doing the change properly (a big "IF" for some people), is it worth doing it yourself? Time spend is probably a wash (going to dealer and waiting vs. buying the parts, doing the change and dealing with disposing the oil)

These are basic questions because my prior cars were leased BMWs where oil changes were covered and I had no long-term liability, so I never considered doing it myself.
 
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My local Mazda dealers want about $29~$32 for oil change, plus N-point inspections.
However, one can visit MazdaUsa.com website and register as Owner (need VIN number). Once registered, you have access some goodies from Mazda (PDF manuals, recall notices, maintenance records, etc.) One of the goodies is a set of "universal" maintenance coupons. You can print it out and take it to any Mazda dealers. I just used it last week. The same oil change, lube, N-point inspection for $24.95 with OE oil and filter.

BTW, Toyota wants $39 for a similar oil change. $32 with coupon and on Tuesday to Thursday.
 
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ceric said:
My local Mazda dealers want about $29~$32 for oil change, plus N-point inspections.
However, one can visit MazdaUsa.com website and register as Owner (need VIN number). Once registered, you have access some goodies from Mazda (PDF manuals, recall notices, maintenance records, etc.) One of the goodies is a set of "universal" maintenance coupons. You can print it out and take it to any Mazda dealers. I just used it last week. The same oil change, lube, N-point inspection for $24.95 with OE oil and filter.

BTW, Toyota wants $39 for a similar oil change. $32 with coupon and on Tuesday to Thursday.
Click to expand...

thanks. The coupon on my mymazda page shows up at $34.95 for the following:
* Change motor oil per specifications.
* Install a Genuine Mazda oil filter.
* Top off vital fluids.
* Complete a Mazda Full Circle Service Inspection.
* Synthetic Oil extra.
* Some models slightly higher - see dealer for details

Note that synthetic oil is extra, but I don't know how much. What's included in a "Full service" inspection?
 
Every oil change at Mazda dealer includes a "full-circle inspection".
It includes testing battery, brake pads, etc. in addition to topping off vital fluids.
Maybe it is a regional thing, mine still shows $24.95 at Oak Tree Mazda in San Jose.
In that case, go to the dealers' website for service special coupon. It may be lower.
 
I've looked at fumoto valves before and always had concerns that most OEM drain plugs have a magnet to 'catch' shavings. The fumoto has no magnet to do this.

The other concern is that I've heard of a fe isolated cases that because the valve protrudes slightly below the oil pan level and there's a slight chance that the valve can be opened or knocked off if it is hit by road debris or if offroading, gets caught on brush and ground cover.
 
danz75 said:
I've looked at fumoto valves before and always had concerns that most OEM drain plugs have a magnet to 'catch' shavings. The fumoto has no magnet to do this.

The other concern is that I've heard of a fe isolated cases that because the valve protrudes slightly below the oil pan level and there's a slight chance that the valve can be opened or knocked off if it is hit by road debris or if offroading, gets caught on brush and ground cover.
Click to expand...

I used a fumoto valve for one oil change on my CX-9. My problem with it is it flows too slow for me. I'm impatient so I took it off and it now sits in my garage. Lemme know if you want to buy it.

I wouldn't be concerned with it being hit and knocked open. The valve is pretty solid. If you're getting hit with rocks or something then you're more likely to puncture that aluminum oil pan than you are to knock that fumoto valve off or open. That valve will not open by accident. My 2 cents.
 
My wife's CX-9 has about 4k miles on it. I looked at the service manual yesterday for the first time. It looks like I can go 7500 miles between oil changes. We don't have kids yet, and most of the driving she does is highway, and she is not agressive with it at all. I guess I can do the first oil change at 5k miles, but why waste the $? When I had my BMW it required an oil change once a year or every 15,000 miles. I used to get nervous, so I did one every 5k miles, then I realized I was throwing money out the window so I started going 7,500 miles, still wasting money.

The way I look at it is this: If Mazda is telling you perform the service at that time, and they are the ones that warranty the car to you, why would they tell you NOT to service the car? Dealers will always try and steal money from you for no reason, like checking brakes, belts, blah, blah, blah. The car is brand new, if there is a problem with any of those things, then I can just take it in for that specific reason.

PS, when I do change the oil, I will probably go with a blend.
 
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