Memphis Amp 1100 Watts!!!!

I have the older version of that amp. Same amp just looks a little different. Well worth the money, tons of power.
 
what are you trying to push with that amp? i hope not the stock 8" sub. that is a great amp, it will push anything you throw at it. i have a buddy with a car audio shop and all he sells is memphis audio. and customers never have any complains about that amp.
 
Im and old school PG guy but i have never heard anyone complain about there Memphis.
 
_MSprotegy said:
what are you trying to push with that amp? i hope not the stock 8" sub. that is a great amp, it will push anything you throw at it. i have a buddy with a car audio shop and all he sells is memphis audio. and customers never have any complains about that amp.

lol hell no im pushing two M'3 12 inch subs lol im not bumb i know the m3s have to have so much power i was just trying to see if the amp is all its cracked up to be.
 
I love my Fultron (really old school Memphis Belle Amplifier MB17 'the original Memphis Belle' amplifier.. only regret is you'll need a bigger alt, another battery and a 2FARAD cap... Class D's get pretty warm so lots of room to breath is good.
 
SeR_Cyclops said:
lol hell no im pushing two M'3 12 inch subs lol im not bumb i know the m3s have to have so much power i was just trying to see if the amp is all its cracked up to be.

well like i said before that amp will push anything you throw at it. by my experience* those amps and subs can take a beating. and imo the amps are underrated.i feel that they have more power that the are rated at.
 
_MSprotegy said:
well like i said before that amp will push anything you throw at it. by my experience* those amps and subs can take a beating. and imo the amps are underrated.i feel that they have more power that the are rated at.

yeah thats what alot of people say. what size box do you all recommend for this size system.
 
i had the old 600 memphis belle it was a huge monster and a heave little b****... lol now im running a memphis 1500D :)
 
i just bought a memphis amp on ebay, it hasnt come in yet or nething but im hoping its better than my sony xplod 12,000 but it only had two 40 amp fuses and they tell me that, that means its only 800 watts max? but i know it will be better im going to run 4 guauge wire? does all this sound correct guys what do you all recommend?
 
well if its not to big get a vented boxfor your m3s. i had that box in my towncar with two fosgate hx2 and a 1500 watt amp, and it litarally* made my car come apart. so if it fits get a box like that. you will be pleased.
 
well my uncle makes cabnetts for a living and we are going to make a box i think a sealed one? i dont know how to make a vented box im sure he does.... he said he has made a couple boxes but i dont know if he really knows how to make a vented box.... he is also very very good at making cabnets so if i had plans he would have no trouble building the box... so does anyone have any plans or know how of making a vented box?
 
SeR_Cyclops said:
i just bought a memphis amp on ebay, it hasnt come in yet or nething but im hoping its better than my sony xplod 12,000 but it only had two 40 amp fuses and they tell me that, that means its only 800 watts max? but i know it will be better im going to run 4 guauge wire? does all this sound correct guys what do you all recommend?

That depends on several things, including the efficiency of the amp. Say it was actually 100% efficient (and it won't be), and that the only limitation was 80 amps worth of fuses (oversimplifying here). Your amperage X your voltage will give you your wattage. So, your 80 amps at a running voltage of 14.4 would equal 1,152 watts. Again, this is very rough and leaves out a lot of factors, but hopefully will give you some idea how to work the math on these things.

Also, if you're going to build your own enclosure, particularly a vented/ported one, consult the speaker manufacturer for the charts that tell you what diameter and length port to use for a given box volume and tuning frequency. (I usually tune around 30 Hz). If you measure and cut correctly, you'll have a box that you'll be happy with. Keep in mind that if you change subs with a ported enclosure, you'll almost always have to change the size of the ports as well. It all works as a unit, and subs and ported boxes are not "mix and match". That drove me nuts when I worked at Circuit City and they'd tell us to throw brand "X" subs into a generic prefab ported or bandpass enclosure. It would sound like s***, and we knew it would. Hope that helps some.
 
its all about cubic feet for the hertz as well
personally i whould tune to about 45-50 hertz for normal everyday music
 
Ported enclosures use a tuned port to get a little additional output. Typically from the back side of the woofer. The woofer's particular characteristics, along with the size of the box and the size and shape of the port determine at what frequency the extra output occurs. Viewed on a graph, the boost in output is not usually a sharp spike but rather a rounded bump centered on the "tuning frequency". Once you get much below that frequency, the output drops off drastically and the woofer is out of its controlled range. I like deep bass, which is why I typically tune to 30 or maybe 40 Hz, which is easy to do with JL Audio subs.

As far as "how you tune", it's really nothing more than knowing the parameters of the woofer, then sizing the box and ports according to where you want it tuned. The easier (and recommended) method is to use the charts provided by the woofer manufacturer. Just build it right and it comes out tuned right. The "tuning" is in the construction of the box. There's nothing to do after that.

I'd recommend getting with the guys in the car audio subforum, like chuyler and gotwake. They're the experts on this stuff and can help you a bunch.
 

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