If you look closely at the mounting holes, it looks like they strengthened the MSP crossmember by welding in a small rectangular plate where the bracket mounts. In the non-MSP piece, the bracket just bolts to a regular (non-strengthened) section of the cross member. Maybe the bigger bar needs a stronger mounting point?NegatiZE said:
Mazdaspeed Swaybar Kit - Here's more info
- Thread starter gar777
- Start date
Gratefully Dead said:
No offense taken, but here's the shop manual regarding the suspension on 01+ Protege's.
http://protege5.ugly.net/02-13.PDF
They are the same. The only differeneces would be the spring lengths on the Pro5 vs. ES/LX/DX. The spring rates themselves are the same, but the Pro5 slightly lower than the sedans. I've talked w/ TheMAN about this and that's what he said IIRC.
Hell, the Racing Beat swaybars fit my '99 just fine.
Familia323
_______________
any word on those part numbers Gar777? 
I need some of the numbers so that I can get some replacement parts.
I need some of the numbers so that I can get some replacement parts.Here it is:
MSP ACCESSORIES (MAZDASPEED AFTERMARKET) SWAY BAR KIT (0000-8M-C15) includes the following:
BN7H-34-151 - MSP Front sway bar (25mm)
BN7H-34-156 - MSP Front sway bar bushings (2)
J001-34-034A - Front flange nuts (4) (for end links)
BP7H-28-151A - MSP Rear sway bar (20mm)
BN7H-28-800A - MSP Rear cross member
B26R-28-170 - MSP Rear end links (about 1" longer than ES links) (2)
BP7H-28-156D - MSP Rear sway bar bushings (2)
BN7H-28-155A - MSP Rear sway bar mounting plate (horseshoe bracket) (2)
B001-39-037B - Rear flange nuts (black) (4)
9994-01-001 - Rear flange nuts (gold, for end links, I think) (4)
9978-01-025 - Bolt, flange (4)
BP48-40-581A - Exhaust gasket (b/w 2nd cat and resonator section)
FSB8-40-305 - Exhaust gasket (b/w resonator and axle-back section)
9922-13-020 - Kotter pins (2) - not sure where these go
NOTE ON QUANTITIES: This is everything that came with the kit. Lots of these items were bagged and labeled parts within labeled bags (where both individual part and group of identical parts had same part #) so confirm quantities before ordering.
MSP ACCESSORIES (MAZDASPEED AFTERMARKET) SWAY BAR KIT (0000-8M-C15) includes the following:
BN7H-34-151 - MSP Front sway bar (25mm)
BN7H-34-156 - MSP Front sway bar bushings (2)
J001-34-034A - Front flange nuts (4) (for end links)
BP7H-28-151A - MSP Rear sway bar (20mm)
BN7H-28-800A - MSP Rear cross member
B26R-28-170 - MSP Rear end links (about 1" longer than ES links) (2)
BP7H-28-156D - MSP Rear sway bar bushings (2)
BN7H-28-155A - MSP Rear sway bar mounting plate (horseshoe bracket) (2)
B001-39-037B - Rear flange nuts (black) (4)
9994-01-001 - Rear flange nuts (gold, for end links, I think) (4)
9978-01-025 - Bolt, flange (4)
BP48-40-581A - Exhaust gasket (b/w 2nd cat and resonator section)
FSB8-40-305 - Exhaust gasket (b/w resonator and axle-back section)
9922-13-020 - Kotter pins (2) - not sure where these go
NOTE ON QUANTITIES: This is everything that came with the kit. Lots of these items were bagged and labeled parts within labeled bags (where both individual part and group of identical parts had same part #) so confirm quantities before ordering.
- :
- '02 Protege5 Black Mica
NegatiZE said:
This slight offset in spring length wont affect the compatability issue of the front sway?
Familia323
_______________
gar777 said:
Thank you very much...
I got a PM asking about this install so I thought I'd post my response here. I've been meaning to write up a How-to on this but haven't gotten around to it yet. I took notes and lots of pics and will try to post it soon. Until then, I'll summarize the job:
This job isn't very hard but it's more involved and takes longer than it seems like it should. You have to remove:
(1) exhaust middle section,
(2) shift rod and support rod,
(3) transverse cross member,
(4) longitudinal support brace,
(5) unbolt steering rack (4 bolts) from subframe (leave tie rod ends connected,
(6) unbolt struts from uprights
(7) unbolt subframe from chassis (8 bolts)
This will allow you to lower the subframe a few inches. With a friend pulling down on the back of the subframe, you should be able to fish the bar out. The reason you need a friend to "pull down" on the subframe (even though you've unbolted almost all of it), is that it is still connected to the control arms, which are connected to the drive shafts, which are connected to the engine/transmission, which are connected to the chassis by the motor mount next to each wheel well (and possibly the front and rear motor mounts also, although I ended up removing those as well).
I was doing this alone and wasn't able to pull the subframe down enough while fishing the bar out by myself so I removed the rear motor mount (NOT an easy task unless you have already installed the AWR rear mount, which I had - see How-to I wrote on that). Removing the rear mount lets you drop the subframe a few more inches and get the needed clearance. It's possible that, with the stock rear engine mount, there is enough flex to pull the subframe down and get the bar out without a friend's help, but this did not seem doable with my rear AWR mount in--that really tightens things up back there.
Let me know if you have any questions.
NOTE: If you are installing the MSP front bar but haven't installed the AWR rear mount BUT THINK YOU MAY EVER WANT TO INSTALL THE AWR REAR MOUNT, then remove the 10mm nut on the bottom of the plastic bracket when you have the subframe dropped. This will save you lots of time later when you install the AWR rear mount. See AWR rear mount How-to for more info on this.
This job isn't very hard but it's more involved and takes longer than it seems like it should. You have to remove:
(1) exhaust middle section,
(2) shift rod and support rod,
(3) transverse cross member,
(4) longitudinal support brace,
(5) unbolt steering rack (4 bolts) from subframe (leave tie rod ends connected,
(6) unbolt struts from uprights
(7) unbolt subframe from chassis (8 bolts)
This will allow you to lower the subframe a few inches. With a friend pulling down on the back of the subframe, you should be able to fish the bar out. The reason you need a friend to "pull down" on the subframe (even though you've unbolted almost all of it), is that it is still connected to the control arms, which are connected to the drive shafts, which are connected to the engine/transmission, which are connected to the chassis by the motor mount next to each wheel well (and possibly the front and rear motor mounts also, although I ended up removing those as well).
I was doing this alone and wasn't able to pull the subframe down enough while fishing the bar out by myself so I removed the rear motor mount (NOT an easy task unless you have already installed the AWR rear mount, which I had - see How-to I wrote on that). Removing the rear mount lets you drop the subframe a few more inches and get the needed clearance. It's possible that, with the stock rear engine mount, there is enough flex to pull the subframe down and get the bar out without a friend's help, but this did not seem doable with my rear AWR mount in--that really tightens things up back there.
Let me know if you have any questions.
NOTE: If you are installing the MSP front bar but haven't installed the AWR rear mount BUT THINK YOU MAY EVER WANT TO INSTALL THE AWR REAR MOUNT, then remove the 10mm nut on the bottom of the plastic bracket when you have the subframe dropped. This will save you lots of time later when you install the AWR rear mount. See AWR rear mount How-to for more info on this.
Roywhitep5
Member
- :
- 2007 350z
i like my bar
but im not quite sure if the front bar is worth the investment. i heard it causes a lot of understeer
but im not quite sure if the front bar is worth the investment. i heard it causes a lot of understeerRoywhitep5 said:i like my bar
that's what i thought too, but it is balanced so there isn't bad understeer. if the front bar was like a 27 or 28mm, then it would be badly unbalanced.
Pro03 said:
You don't need different endlinks if you're installing only MSP springs and struts. That's what I did (at first) and didn't have any trouble with my stock sway bars and end links. I think the MSP rear sway bar is slightly longer or has something else slightly different which requires the use of different length end links.
There should be a benefit from the stiffer RB front sway bar (less front roll, less dynamic camber change, quicker steering response, etc.) so I opted for the RB front bar, as well as rear. Overall, the balance is good and, with r-compound tires, you can get the car to turn well on an autox course with brakes and/or lifting but it's still very comfortable through high speed lane change manuevers/slaloms (just whip it around). I want to experiment more with trail braking, tire pressures and alignment but may try the adjustable 21.5mm AWR rear bar in the future (though not before the 2006 season) to try to shift the balance more toward neutral/oversteer and see if that's an improvement.
