FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
How do I keep the car in the powerband longer? Seems like my rpms drop too quick and I'd like them to stay in the range better and longer. Would swapping out the flywheel help?
keeping in the powerband
- Thread starter FunkyBuddha
- Start date
Are you talking about in between shifts? If you are thinking about a lighter flywheel, no. Your RPM's would actually drop faster... You would need a heavier flywheel to keep the engine momentum longer. I swear my wife's Cabrio has a 50lb flywheel... I can't drive that car.
FunkyBuddha said:
keeping it between 4000-5500 isn't that hard..but for the love of god..when your cornering..do NOT take them suicide 3-wheel style..you'll end up like me and justin..blown motors..get yourself an oil pan..
Minishotglass
Member
- :
- 03.5 mp5 5spd
The only thing I can think of is either getting a shortshifter or shifting faster...
Well if you talking about when you are shifting the car falls out of the rev range, im going to have to disagree here. Unless you have a real race motor your transmission is going to be properly geared. A custom tranny with closer gear ratios might yield a better track time, but wouldn't be too practical. Not to mention it would only work on certain tracks.
With the flywheel, a lighter flywheel like noted above will make the revs drop faster. But it will also raise faster as there is less resistance, due to the lightened nature.
With the flywheel, a lighter flywheel like noted above will make the revs drop faster. But it will also raise faster as there is less resistance, due to the lightened nature.
M
Mashi Maro
in my opinion the power band is a bit narrow (i'd like a few hundred more rpm of pull), you have to shift at the right time, shift too late and you ride through the point where power is dropping off, shift too early and you have to wait for it to get to re-enter the power band and that's what you might be feeling, that short period where the car has no pull even when the engine is engaged and at full throttle....or you could be taking too long to shift...a short shifter might help, but if you start to change gears faster than the unmatched flywheel can drop to the proper rpm, you could wear out your synchros....if you're having trouble keeping in the power band during corning, try double clutching
twilightprotege
Member
- :
- 2001 323 Astina SP20 (P5)
one thing i'd like to work on shortly is have it so the VICS stays open above the lowest shift point when the car is reved to the limit in each gear.
currently my car's (aussie car) VICS only kicks in above 5500rpm. so when i change from redline in first to 2nd, the VICS butterflies close, then open again at 5500rpm. it's a real pain because the power dips at the point the VICS butterflies open which is definately not what you want when you're going as hard as you can.
currently my car's (aussie car) VICS only kicks in above 5500rpm. so when i change from redline in first to 2nd, the VICS butterflies close, then open again at 5500rpm. it's a real pain because the power dips at the point the VICS butterflies open which is definately not what you want when you're going as hard as you can.
This 'powerband' concept is flawed. You should ALWAYS shift at fuel cut. Why? Because if you shift earlier, you lose the torque multiplying effect of the transmission. Just because you make less hp at 6500 than you do at 5500, doesn't mean you make less at 6500 than 4000, which is how low it'll go when you shift. But when you do shift, you loose a WHACK of torque which is always significantly higher in a lower gear. Ask any autocrosser and he'll tell you they all wish for a higher redline to keep it in gear longer.....Mashi Maro said:
ie shift at 5500(where there's 1500lb/ft of torque) down to 3000RPM in second(where there's now only 800lb/ft of torque), and probably less power at 3000RPM than there would have been at 6500.
twilightprotege
Member
- :
- 2001 323 Astina SP20 (P5)
putting it simply - you shift as late as possible where you loose the least amount of power.
99 times out of 100 that's the fuel cut
like gen1 said - you might make max power at 6000rpm (say 100whp), but if you shift there you drop to say 4000rpm (say 80whp). if you keep going to say 6500rpm, your power might be less tha 6000 (say 95whp), but you're changing into 4500rpm (say 85whp). therefore you have only dropped 15whp from max power instead of 20whp.
that's very general, but you get the point
99 times out of 100 that's the fuel cut
like gen1 said - you might make max power at 6000rpm (say 100whp), but if you shift there you drop to say 4000rpm (say 80whp). if you keep going to say 6500rpm, your power might be less tha 6000 (say 95whp), but you're changing into 4500rpm (say 85whp). therefore you have only dropped 15whp from max power instead of 20whp.
that's very general, but you get the point
twilightprotege
Member
- :
- 2001 323 Astina SP20 (P5)
i thought i'd work out a few figures from 1st into 2nd
my stockish dyno run (peak whp 103.5 @ 5932rpm). shift at 6500rpm (100.9whp), drop to 3621rpm (63.4whp). shift at peak whp 5932rpm (103.5whp), drop to 3304rpm (guess apx 54whp). so going to redline you only loose 40.1whp from peak, if you shift at peak you loose 49.5whp.
the more modified your car is the worse this equation becomes.
another way to think about it. shift early, you're swapping figures between 103.5whp and 100.9whp for figures between 54whp and 63.4whp. i know which figures i'd rather be driving with....
my stockish dyno run (peak whp 103.5 @ 5932rpm). shift at 6500rpm (100.9whp), drop to 3621rpm (63.4whp). shift at peak whp 5932rpm (103.5whp), drop to 3304rpm (guess apx 54whp). so going to redline you only loose 40.1whp from peak, if you shift at peak you loose 49.5whp.
the more modified your car is the worse this equation becomes.
another way to think about it. shift early, you're swapping figures between 103.5whp and 100.9whp for figures between 54whp and 63.4whp. i know which figures i'd rather be driving with....
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
I see. Ya I have a short shifter, throttle response is better due to intake, axleback, header and cams. My rpm needle shoots up quicker but also falls too much in between shifts. Like twilight mentioned..each shift drops about 2-3000rpm. Anyway of making that gap smaller? Other than getting custom tranny?
Ok..another question..how do I raise redline to..say...7500rpm? What kind of mods would I have to have/require?
Thanks in advance
Ok..another question..how do I raise redline to..say...7500rpm? What kind of mods would I have to have/require?
Thanks in advance
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
What would an oilpan give me? Sorry, but I know nothing of oilpans. Haha..taking corners like that is the only way to go.SpicyMchaggis said:
only once in a while.About the only other thing you could do besides a tranny is reduce the diameter of your wheels/tires. Most people don't like the speedo error and it may affect other aspects of the car, such as handling.
The only way I know of to raise the redline is to replace the ECU with a stand alone. You would definitley want forged internals and a good balance job. The stress on the motor increases exponetially with RPM.
The only way I know of to raise the redline is to replace the ECU with a stand alone. You would definitley want forged internals and a good balance job. The stress on the motor increases exponetially with RPM.
FunkyBuddha said:
A baffled oil pan will reduce oil starvation during cornering (e.g., keep the oil from completely sloshing to one side while in a corner).
FunkyBuddha said:What would an oilpan give me? Sorry, but I know nothing of oilpans. Haha..taking corners like that is the only way to go.
yeah, funky..this is more of a precautionary thing..the oil pan well help your car NOT blow up when taking hard corners..
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