yes an mx6 rear strut bar... how to and good info in this thread http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123621438
We were talking about this on astina gt in Aus, the reason they reccomend to jack up the car is to relieve the struts, and return the struts to their original factory position. As your car gets older and flexes and so forth, the strut towers apparently sag inwards slightly, so by jacking up the rear end take the pressure of the struts, and the towers hopefully go back to their original position.L8R said:Alignment, no.
Cusco says to jack the car up (the rear in your case) and then put the bar on.
FinalResort said:
tengoestetempo said:i want to do this mod aswell.. you guys notice any difference in cornering and stiffness and what not???
You don't have to cut the belt tensioner, just bend the lip up with a big crescent wrench then knock it back down to the bracket after installed. Measuring the side panels would allow you to cut a little square hole in the panel so no big open hole around the brackets. And the ebay bar allows for you to rotate the bar & tighten itself up in the mounting brackets pushing against the strut towers before tightening the lock nuts down. All issues now non-issues.mazdaspeed777 said:I wouldn't get that one if I were you. It looks a bit berlier but you would have to do way more modding than you would like. You would have to cut a way bigger hole in the plastic side panels to make room for that rise and you would have to cut a bigger chunk out of the seat belt possitioner. here is a pic of what I had to cut out of that piece.
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That black dome looking thing possitions the rear seat belts at the right angle so they won't snap your neck or anything in an a crash. And here is the hole I had to cut in the side plastic
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i12drivemyMP5 said:You don't have to cut the belt tensioner, just bend the lip up with a big crescent wrench then knock it back down to the bracket after installed. Measuring the side panels would allow you to cut a little square hole in the panel so no big open hole around the brackets. And the ebay bar allows for you to rotate the bar & tighten itself up in the mounting brackets pushing against the strut towers before tightening the lock nuts down. All issues now non-issues.
I didn't say you had to beat the **** out of it. I meant close the big wrench down on the lip where it needs to clear & then using the leverage of the wrench to bend the lip up (with the thing off the car) enough to make it over the bracket. It doesn't take that much of a bend to get past the bracket. It didn't e-VIN cum klose 2 n e bangin ly q r talkin about & know bangin on the bar either - it twists & tightens up against the brackets then the lock knutz get tye tinned. Nowhere close to interfering with the plastic panels or covers & not hacked up either.mazdaspeed777 said:Well you can bang the crap out of it but IMO it is way easier just to cut it. That way you don't have to worrie about if the belt tensioner is at the right angle or not, if its not the plastic cover will not fit over it right. Plus you could damage the strut bar bracket banging on it like that. It was pretty easy to cut too. I just took a jig saw with metal cutting blade on it and it cut through it like a hot knife through butter.
Ripper323 said:Me personally, I don't like the idea of modifying the seatbelt dome/holder, whatever it is, so I fabricated my own strut brace that fits under the belt dome thing.
This pic is obviously before it has been welded together, but it gives you an idea. For safety reasons you shouldn't be modifying something like that.
i12drivemyMP5 said:this thing is a guide for the belt. What the spool is bolted to & what the clasp is bolted to & the quality of the belt itself will determine how safe it really is.
I won't be buying a bar, I'm using a piece of 316 polished stainless tube, 25mm (1") in diameter, 1.6mm wall thickness. It's what i've always used when i've made my own strut braces.ke20sprinter said:Nice idea, will you be buying the corksport bar? I'm guessing this because you're bracket is pretty wide.
As far as the cutting/bending of the seat belt bracket, I don't see this as a problem...The bracket is pretty thick (I remember standing on it and it held my weight), I cut it pretty easy with a cut off wheel (using a hack saw would take forever) and it's pretty thick, also the bracket is held by 2 of the bolts, not all 3...I think the most important part of the bracket is where the seat belt slides through.
I guess if it's important for that bracket to stay intact, why not grind down the STB bracket (so the seat belt bracket fits above it) and reweld it for strength? There are 2 small tack welds on each side, grind down the tabs, and reweld it for support? Like my sig says..."the cheaper the mod the better"
see How To:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123621438
5th picture.
WiL