How To: Kill your turkeys

well, i am currently running BOV only (venting to atmosphere) and i STILL get the turkey. I ran the BOV out of a vac block off the brake booster...the only other thing that is coming off the vac. block is a line for my boost gauge...did i do something wrong?
 
well, i am currently running BOV only (venting to atmosphere) and i STILL get the turkey. I ran the BOV out of a vac block off the brake booster...the only other thing that is coming off the vac. block is a line for my boost gauge...did i do something wrong?

Im the same way. I'm going to check my clamps to see if there's a boost leak and check to see if my HKS c-clip is installed correctly. I've tried to adjust it but still get a turkey.
 
Where does the stock BPV tap into? I have one coming and would like to know if I'll have to get my cold pipe welded or not.

The BPV is tapped into the cold pipe on one side, and tapped into the intake on the other correct?

Currently I am running a Injen CAI for a N/A protege as my cold pipe, I have the nipple for the VC capped off and was wondering if I could use that for the BPV? The nipple on the cold pipe is a tad bit smaller than the BPV opening is, will this be an issue?

Also, do I have to run it back into my intake? I cut my intake really short so I don't have the BPV nipple on it anymore.
 
I may be bringing this thread back again sometime soon. I'm setting up my Turbohoses IC pipe kit this weekend. Tonight the flange for the Greddy gets welded to my IC/TB pipe. Sweet!
 
So I hooked up the hard pipes, bpv, and bov in the manner that 505Zoom said to (with all separate vacuum lines for the bpv, bov, and wastegate actuator) and the "almost stalling"/turkey is still there. Plus I lost a pound of boost in the process. What could be my issue?
Anyone? Plus I'm not getting the signature whistle sound that the Greddy Type S is supposed to give. I either get a "whoosh" or a gobble.

This project is starting to anger me. I've been to O'Reilys about 6 times now picking up different vacuum connectors and T's. hardpipes.webp
 
And I know this may be a dumb question, but which way should the arrow on the BPV be pointing? toward the turbo? or toward to CAI?
 
Maf location is your problem. There shouldn't be a bov after your maf cuz if there is, every time u blow off, ur engine is getting different amounts of air than what the maf said was coming, therefore it wants to stall. Relocate your maf AFTER the bov and it should be fine. The only time u can run a bov after maf with no problem is when its recirc into the intake and the maf is in stock location. VTA on stock maf location will make u stumble like crazy every time.

The arrow should be pointing into the intake.
 
Maf location is your problem. There shouldn't be a bov after your maf cuz if there is, every time u blow off, ur engine is getting different amounts of air than what the maf said was coming, therefore it wants to stall. Relocate your maf AFTER the bov and it should be fine. The only time u can run a bov after maf with no problem is when its recirc into the intake and the maf is in stock location. VTA on stock maf location will make u stumble like crazy every time.

The arrow should be pointing into the intake.

How the heck do I relocate the MAF way up there after the BOV? All the pipes are set up to be where they are. I'm about done with this car......
 
I have it all set up the exact way that 505zoom does. His MAF is on his Injen CAI too and he has no stalling. FML....
 
I know man, thats why you don't see a protege in my sig. lol

Check it out, see where my maf is? Its relocated, its where NA proteges usually run their MAF
DSC02584.jpg


and my bov was here, before the maf
DSC02605.jpg


If you notice, 505 is also recirculating his bov, not VTA like I said.
 
I see. I'm recirculating my bpv, and venting my bov. I thought that's what he was doing. Would a vacuum leak in my BB line cause it to almost stall like crazy? Because I just went back out to the car to see if adjusting the BOV would work and I heard the nasty sound of a vacuum leak. Sure enough, the T that I put in to run to the bpv is broken and hissing all over the place.
 
Whoops, my apologizes, I just looked real quick and saw this pic with a line on the bov
dsc00474.jpg


Hmm, thats strange..I recirc my bpv and vta my bov too and had no issues but my maf was relocated. Yes, a vac leak would make the stalling worse.
 
Whoops, my apologizes, I just looked real quick and saw this pic with a line on the bov

Hmm, thats strange..I recirc my bpv and vta my bov too and had no issues but my maf was relocated. Yes, a vac leak would make the stalling worse.

I fixed the vac leak and I'm still semi-stalling. Not as bad as with the leak. And I am steady at 5lbs of boost. and it seems to creeeeeeep up to the 5lbs. Good thing is that the turkey seems to be killed. Eatin' him for din-din tonight. hehe. It still baffles me what I have hooked up wrong.

Would the fact that I'm running a standard sized vac line (from the intake mani) to a reducer/increaser fitting to a 1/4" hose running to the wastegate actuater make me lose boost? I checked all my hard pipes and the couplings. They're all tight.

Does adjusting the BOV have anything to do with it?
 
Where's 505zoom when you need him? He's the father of this setup, right?
 
I'm not 100% sure but to me if the WGA's vac line was restrictive, that would actually increase boost because its not openning when its suppose to due to a restrictive line but I may be wrong.

I know that ur stalling issues have to be from the non-relocated maf, not sure about the low boost though.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back