How TO: CEL/MIL Eliminator!

Spooled said:
For any of you that want to see what it looks like before it's wrapped up, I just soldered one together last night. I need to get some heat shrink tubing to finish it up. Just make sure that you wrap the individual lines so that there aren't any shorts.

nice work! it's good to see someone who know how to solder a joint!!(thumb)
 
bazooka joe said:
nice work! it's good to see someone who know how to solder a joint!!(thumb)

Thanks! I really need a new soldering gun, though. I'd like to try that Cold Heat thingy.
 
Spooled said:
Thanks! I really need a new soldering gun, though. I'd like to try that Cold Heat thingy.

Sucks!!!! I'm used to putting some solder on the tip and going from there, the cold heat you have to keep the wire accross the split contact to make heat and it MUST stay there to get the solder to suck in. I have one and tried it but it took too long compared to the good old iron! Good pic, I should have took one of mine before I installed it.

This same setup has been on my car for about 2 years now with no issues. I do have 1 high flow cat so I'm thinking that's why it worked for me so long versus the guys with the headers. My cat cleans some out, but being 3" and high flow, it doesn't do what the ECU wants when it's cold out, so this fix does the trick. I might add, I only got the P0421 code when it was cold out. When it was warm, zero codes.
 
Bigg Tim said:
Sucks!!!! I'm used to putting some solder on the tip and going from there, the cold heat you have to keep the wire accross the split contact to make heat and it MUST stay there to get the solder to suck in. I have one and tried it but it took too long compared to the good old iron! Good pic, I should have took one of mine before I installed it.

This same setup has been on my car for about 2 years now with no issues. I do have 1 high flow cat so I'm thinking that's why it worked for me so long versus the guys with the headers. My cat cleans some out, but being 3" and high flow, it doesn't do what the ECU wants when it's cold out, so this fix does the trick. I might add, I only got the P0421 code when it was cold out. When it was warm, zero codes.

I almost bought one tonight at Radio Shack while I was picking up some heat shrink tubing. I always hold the iron against the wire to get it heated up then touch the solder to the wire itself. I was thinking that I could solder the eliminator in without pulling the O2, but then I pictured myself laying under the car with molten solder suspended above my face...

I have a 3" high-flow right now with 0 codes so far. The only reason I am doing the eliminator is because my cat ate itself. I'm replacing it with either a straight pipe or a resonator.
 
ummm, my cel keeps coming on and off, usually by the 3rd day it does either....


what could it be?
 
JCell said:
ummm, my cel keeps coming on and off, usually by the 3rd day it does either.... what could it be?

Man, that sucks! the 2 non-foulr method, right? Did you reset the ECU with the key turned to accessory, disconnecting, etc?

you replaced the o2 sensor, right?
 
no, i didn't think i'd have to since the cel went away...but alas she came back


i reseted the ecu by just unplugging the battery for some time
 
JCell said:
no, i didn't think i'd have to since the cel went away...but alas she came back
i reseted the ecu by just unplugging the battery for some time

Yeah, I had the same problem for 15 minutes, CEL never went out. Go ahead, turn key to accessory, unplug - terminal. pump brakes. key off, sit 10 minutes. - terminal on, then see how it goes.
 
Spooled said:
I almost bought one tonight at Radio Shack while I was picking up some heat shrink tubing. I always hold the iron against the wire to get it heated up then touch the solder to the wire itself. I was thinking that I could solder the eliminator in without pulling the O2, but then I pictured myself laying under the car with molten solder suspended above my face...

I have a 3" high-flow right now with 0 codes so far. The only reason I am doing the eliminator is because my cat ate itself. I'm replacing it with either a straight pipe or a resonator.

LOL, I soldered mine in while it was on the car. You just have to make sure you are not directly under the soldering, oh and........wear a long sleave shirt!!!! solder burns ****** hurt!!!!
 
Well, I got the MIL eliminator wired in while the cat was being replaced with a resonator. It seems to be working perfectly so far. Of course the cat was completely gutted for a couple days without a CEL, too.
 
has anyone have had any rust developing on teh non floulers? i looked at them yesterday and it looks like some rust is building up
 
I dunno, but my check engine light has been coming on intermittently here and there, but will go away next time I start the car. I had the code scanned and its definitely the o2 sensor, perhaps I should go and try to clean the fouler out.
 
JCell said:
has anyone have had any rust developing on teh non floulers? i looked at them yesterday and it looks like some rust is building up

yup...i have some rust on mine. The high heat paint i sprayed on the non-foulers didnt really work. It bubbled and flaked off. I guess canadian winters are to harsh for that stuff. No worries, as long as there are no leaks youre golden
 
My CEL came on a few days ago. I need to get the code scanned, but I have a good feeling that it's the second O2 sensor. I'm 100% sure that I made and installed the eliminator correctly. Has anyone else had this happen?

If the O2 isn't working anymore, then I'll probably just get a new one and try the non-fouler method. If it's just a cat failure code, then do you guys have any ideas on how to fix it? Is there an O2 simulator for our cars (ie - remove the second O2 completely, plug the exhaust bung, and plug something into the second O2 wire like a terminator)?
 
I have tried both ways, When I did the wireing, I had nothing but problems. I then tried it witht he non foulers and have no CEL's since. That has been all summer and thru the winter.
 
Well, I stopped at AutoZone and checked the code. It said that there was "no activity" from the second sensor. Does that mean it's toast? I Seafoamed the engine then reset the code. It came back after about 12 miles.

Ideally there should be something to replace the second O2 rather than alter the signal.
 
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