Fuel system SOLUTIONS...
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
You will need to pull more timing with higher boost. I have -7 to -8 at 8psi, so the -11 sounds right. Kooldino was at like -15 at 11psi, or something, so you may need to do more. Keep pulling it until you are cool, better safe then sorry.acidbbg said:
Too much fuel does cause pre-ignition and will damage the motor. It is not AS bad as lean, but it does have the capabilities of blowing motors too. Detonation is detonation, whether it's too much fuel or not enough.
Ok folks, I have played with the AEng Temp scale on the analog map, and got my transition to be smoother in 4th and 5th gear. In my lower gears, I am so damn rich! I know that since I hit higher boost this morning, I have more timing to pull on the real. The J&S is a great tuning tool! (thumb)
This is so true! I am using the hell outta my IGN AMP scale for boost retard now. Some things I noticed tonight on the way to work. I made no changes to my analog map tonight, but noticed that when I hit boost in 4th gear, I buck at the swtich point, and then I'm pegged rich all the way up to like 11 PSI where I let off. I mean sub 10's in A/F ratio! (eek2) If I step on it in 5th gear on the highway, I stumble quickly at the switch point, and then take off with my A/F ratio pegged rich, and then I notice that the A/F ratio goes up out of the rich zone into the 13's and 14's. My Nology PDA Dyno tells me that my 1st O2 sensor voltage is being clamped at like 450 mv. This is like 100 mv higher than the FM clamp clamps the voltage at. The coolant clamp clamps the temp readout at 39 F. The thing I did notice is when I take off in 4th gear, and then switch to 5th, I stay pegged like when I was in 4th until I let off. :wtf: I did not note what my Nology was saying at this point about my 1st O2 sensor voltage.acidbbg said:
All in all some interesting findings. I am tempted to take my Pierburg In-Line Pump out!s*** that's right I have a P5 ECU- that's one difference we have that we completely forgot about Pat... Hmmm. I'm going to spend a lot of time tomorrow with the MPI software. Making different maps and testing them out. Maybe I'll try what you've done acid- the backwards way. hmmmmmm <thinks>
- :
- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
It's not really Backwards..But the way I think of it.
We are leaning out the entire map. Since the new turbo module is spitting out tons of fuel...We have to lower the Analog Fuel Cal down.
Linux..you really need to pull out the inline fuel pump. Otherwize..turn up the boost to like 13+psi..and it should lean itself out!
Also..Everytime you lower the analog fuel cal you need to retune the fuel map 8X16 where you are not in boost otherwise you will run lean!
So whenever i drop that Analog Fuel Cal down..i raise my map numbers up 1 point.
Chas
We are leaning out the entire map. Since the new turbo module is spitting out tons of fuel...We have to lower the Analog Fuel Cal down.
Linux..you really need to pull out the inline fuel pump. Otherwize..turn up the boost to like 13+psi..and it should lean itself out!
Also..Everytime you lower the analog fuel cal you need to retune the fuel map 8X16 where you are not in boost otherwise you will run lean!
So whenever i drop that Analog Fuel Cal down..i raise my map numbers up 1 point.
Chas
Well, I just finished installing my extra injectors, and they now work now that I got the polarity right (thanks Bigg Tim!)! All kinds of surprises tonight. I got some S5 connectors from Gotham Racing yesterday, and had to make my harness for the injectors. While running the fuel hose for the extra injectors, the bar that holds the extra fuel rail to the drilled slab broke off! (eek2) I was like s***. So I did a temp seal on the holes with a silicone hose cut in half, and zip ties, and went down to Alamo Autosports. Brice Yingling welded it back onto the plate...for $10. Damn. Anyway, I hooked up the wires, and ran some tests. The injectors weren't firing. I called Bigg Tim, and he check the polarity of his setup. I had it backwards. I tested with the two injectors not hooked into the rail by putting 20 in the idle square, and they started clicking like mad. I repeated, and the same thing. Time for bed...goodnight!
Anyway, I hooked up the wires, and ran some tests. The injectors weren't firing. I called Bigg Tim, and he check the polarity of his setup. I had it backwards. I tested with the two injectors not hooked into the rail by putting 20 in the idle square, and they started clicking like mad. I repeated, and the same thing. Time for bed...goodnight!Well, I thought I was supposed to work today, but didn't have to...misread the schedule. (cool) I had the opportunity to tune my system. 1st thing I noticed is that when I hit boost, I would have good A/F ratios, no knock, and didn't really pull like I usually do. Damn. Then I realized that I had too much timing retard, so I took my numbers from -9's, -10's, and -11's in the 8x16 map all the way down to -1's and -2's. In the 1x16 map, the highest value for boost retard is -8 when it used to be -13. It worked! The power was back, and the J&S was quiet! (eekdance). I kept on tuning, and have consistant 11's for a/f ratio. I will leave it like this so that when it leans out in about a week, I will be at 12 a/f ratio. My tune is good for now! Little Beavis (Jeremy) was right...it doesn't take long at all to tune with extra injectors!
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